Battery Testing Protocols

[joe_db]

Most of my meters are doing great. I replaced the LED ones with LCD meters because they draw less current and are not as bright at night. I burned one out because I got confused between the 5 volt supply ones and the 12 volt ones and hooked a 5 volt one to the 12 volt supply I did get one combo amp-volt meter that didn't work.
You have a couple other issues to think about. The shunt goes between battery negative and EVERYTHING else. That way it reads all current in and out of the battery. Also I would not try and run an A4 starter through a 100 amp fuse. My A4 draws 120-130 amps at startup.

Originally Posted by sastanley

joe_db & Hanley - have you guys had any trouble with those fleabay ammeters & voltmeters? I am thinking about picking up some to replace the analog meters in my panel. At ~$8-20 each they seem reasonably priced and almost disposable/replaceable if necessary.

Currently, my ammeter only reads draw from the batteries..no charge...I am thinking I need to put the shunt in a different spot...maybe on the negative side between the isolator and the battery? - I have to think about this a bit...there may be no good solution since my charging circuit is completely separate from the panel..I may need two ammeters..one on the draw side, and one on the charge side.

Secondly..on rare occasions, after a long cranking event, I sometimes blow the main 100A breaker on the Blue Seas battery switch. So, I think I want to make sure I rate anything between the batteries & that breaker to rate higher so the battery switch continues to blow first.

[hanleyclifford]

I agree with Joe on that breaker (100 amp) being too small but I would replace it with a 200 and continue to run the starter thru it. If you have a shunt and digital meter you get an instant evaluation of the starter each time you use it