Head Stud Torque Sequence Please

[Ando]

I must have misplaced my manual but could use the diagram of the sequence please if anyone has one handy.

[TimBSmith]

CamaroMan/Dave Neptune had these great posts that I had saved...

https://www.moyermarineforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10482&referrerid=14121

Applicable part...

"This is all head gasket prep done. If you arent doing valves then from there u can do a final clean and assemble (the heads are torqued in 3 stages 20/30/37 ft lbs) - in a circular pattern from the CENTER working outwards in a criss cross spiral."

Dave Neptune had this to say...that I also saved...

https://www.moyermarineforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4810&referrerid=14121

"Butch, I'll chime in here. I have not seen the MMI manual and if it is a bit different no biggie. I have done 100's of head replacements and don't even look for anything but the final torque value. When tightening any flat surfaces together you always work from the "center out" in a concentric pattern. I have seen many differant patterns on the same head and it is just their instructions. Most important especially on the A-4 as it is a "thin" head is ti get the head set with a low torque setting and go over it a few times steadily increasing the torque a bit at a time. When the head settles in and the amount of rotation to achieve the torque value is consistant with the value you are working with then you can begin to increase the torque a bit more until the final torque setting is achieved. Retorque after it has set for a while and especially after the first time it is fired up and warmed. It is also a good idea to retorque after a couple hours of operation. Some gaskets such as the 2 required in the A-4 compress quite a bit requiring resetting after the first couple of runs. I built some modified Rotaries and the torquing sequence on the housings takes forever and you are only going to 17 ft lbs of torque.

Following the above procedure I have never had a gasket failure under "normal" operating conditions.
Note if you use a bit of Av grade (my personal recomendation) around the edges of the studs and cylinders torquing will take a bit longer and more finess. This is because a bit more squeezing to compress the sealent is necessary. I replaced my head 27 years ago in this fashion and it still is in great shape, no signs of water anywhere around the studs or head."

Never done this project. Hope not to do it until I have been using my motor for a few years. You reminded me that I need to buy the Moyer Manual...doing that today.

Stay well. Tim