Choke Geometry Help

[joe_db]

My engine has always been a little slow to start for the first start of the day. After that, it starts right up. I always attributed that to me running the gas out at shutdown.
Lately it had gotten much worse, with the December weather the engine could be chilly in the morning. Also the choke cable was getting very hard to pull. I decided some investigation was in order and discovered the choke cable had broken internally and I had no choke at all. I guess it is a miracle the engine could start even with difficulty on a cold morning. Choking the engine by hand it starts more or less instantly now, cold or hot, fuel run out or not run out
I ordered a new Moyer cable and installed it. It turns out I have a geometry issue. The choke cable feeds through a clamp and then it goes through the little arm at activates the choke. The illustration shows the angle of the cable, the red line is choke OFF and the purple line is choke ON. The choke cannot make it all the way to full on, it tries to make the cable take a sudden bend it just won't do. I get a range of motion from off to maybe 2/3s choke. For an updraft carb in winter, it needs to be 100% choke.
So before make some big mess, is there an easy way to change this geometry? What I am looking for is making the full on lever position farther forward, giving more distance from the cable clamp.

[JOHN COOKSON]

You need adjust the fixed arm. There is a screw that holds a sort of circular plate in place - that is where the adjustment is.
I scribed a line on the plate and carb body with diamond tip pencil before disassembly so I could line up the fixed arm correctly after doing a carb overhaul so I didn't have to guess the correct position when I reassembled the carb.

ex TRUE GRIT

[joe_db]

This one?
That seems easy enough.

[JOHN COOKSON]

I think it's the or these. It's been a few years since I've done this. The little circular plate that has the fixed arm attached needs to be rotated.
If necessary the angle that the choke cable approaches the carb will need to be adjusted so there are no tight bends in it.
Also the movable arm should not touch the fixed arm when the choke is fully closed.

ex TRUE GRIT

PS: A crumpled rag under the work area will catch the small parts you are going to drop.

[joe_db]

Thanks!
And thanks to Moyer for getting me the cable fast! Do NOT cheap out on these, pretty much every single other kind of cable will corrode and die on you.

A general note - this was a frog boiling issue. Between the cable getting worse and the temperatures dropping, the first start of the day just kept getting a little worse. The A4 is NOT a hard to start engine, so if it is something is wrong somewhere.

[JOHN COOKSON]

If you need choke adjusting instructions let me know.

ex TRUE GRIT