Oil leak while winterized

[edwardc]

I think the apparent elongation of the mounting holes is just a photographic issue (pincushion distortion) caused by a wide-angle lens.

[Mo]

Not a terrible looking pan. Suggest sanding and grinding that pitting etc off there, clean with reducer, and paint with the best paint you can afford right now. 2 part epoxy would be my choice, but I have that laying around. I understand going out and buying it costs more than the pan...unless you know someone that uses the stuff and can do it for you on the side. (you wouldn't believe how much stuff I get done like that...favor for favor).

You are doing the right thing there. Not a bad looking pan.

[CRUX]

Un-related to the oil pan, I have some deep scaling on the on all sides of the water jacket side plate. So deep that I am definitely wary to start chipping away. The pictures don't do it justice.

I find this odd because there have been NO indications of a leak in that area since I've owned the boat for the past couple seasons.

The side plate/bolts don't look original to me, though i could be mistaken. One bolt head is gone completely, while the all the others look good.

FYI I run with the bypass loop and NO thermostat at about 110-120 degrees consistently, so no issues of overheating.

I imagine I will have have to swap out every bolt for studs, etc if I were to try to open up the side jacket, but I REALLY don't want to go down that road right now. Launch day is coming up quick and I'm only halfway done with the oil pan swap. Is it a terrible idea to leave as is??

[ronstory]

My two cents... if you are this close to plate that is missing a bolt head, I would fix it. It's going to be a lot easier to get access to that area now.

If your motor has decent compression, oil pressure and limited blow-by... there is no reason you could not get years out of this re-install. However, if it starts to leak later... trying to get rusted side plate off in situ is not going to be fun. IMO, those side plate bolt make that pan and head bolts look easy. I broke two off even with soaking, tapping and heat.

Well, at least there is one bolt that won't break off on you... so only 7 to go.

[Surcouf]

I had a very scaled motor, exactly where your is... This part went OK. A lot of "cold chiseling" and scrapping , then multiple cleaning and then POR painting.

But scaling only occurrs with water, so you must have one small leak potentially only when engine is hot. Be aware that the A4 head casting has a weak point below the water pump, just above your heavy scaling...

[CRUX]

Making progress. Old pan is off. Only one broken bolt, hoping to be able to turn it out with some vice grips.

Sourced my "new" pan, prepping for painting now.

Doing this job in the cabin, glad to have so much room in the C30

[Al Schober]

Photo #1 in post #28 is REAL ugly. Is that a freeze crack?

[ronstory]

The inners look like their as suppose to, that's good news. I would clean the oil screen since it just staring you down in it's current configuration. ;^)

It just spins off and don't lose the spring and washers. Get any large deposits off with a clean non-fuzzy rag and solvent and you can stick the long nozzle of wd-40 from the inside to help get the deposits off. If you want a gold star you can take off the twisted wire and remove the screen but they are fragile and if I could get it pretty clean with WD or an air nozzle from the inside, I would call it good enough.

Keep going, you are "almost there". That last phrase exclusively was for Surcouf.

[CRUX]

Originally Posted by Al Schober

Photo #1 in post #28 is REAL ugly. Is that a freeze crack?

It was a thin slab of scaled