Water cooling pump bolt stripped

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  • wetbirks
    Senior Member
    • Jul 2021
    • 44

    Water cooling pump bolt stripped

    I had a leak on my engine cooling water pump. When I remove the lower bolt (which seems to be a major problem for many people) it started to spin. I ended up drilling it out.

    I'm assuming the inside threads are a mess. What can I do in this situation? I have a new water pump on its way.
  • JOHN COOKSON
    Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
    • Nov 2008
    • 3500

    #2
    Go to studs. A stud in both upper and lower holes should make life easier.

    ex TRUE GRIT

    Comment

    • wetbirks
      Senior Member
      • Jul 2021
      • 44

      #3
      Originally posted by JOHN COOKSON View Post
      Go to studs. A stud in both upper and lower holes should make life easier.

      ex TRUE GRIT
      Thanks John, looking forward to having these studs in place. I'm going to install them tomorrow. Any idea of the size and thread type I'm looking for? I can't seem to find them on any of the parts lists.

      Comment

      • JOHN COOKSON
        Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
        • Nov 2008
        • 3500

        #4
        You should be able to figure out the length and thread from the one good bolt that you removed.
        I know there are different grades metal used to make studs.
        I'm getting beyond the fringe of my knowledge here.......

        ex TRUE GRIT

        Comment

        • ronstory
          Afourian MVP
          • Feb 2016
          • 404

          #5
          John's idea of a stud on the top is great idea. It's pretty easy to get the washer and nut on the top stud, but trying to get the washer and nut a lower "blind" stud, IMO, would not be fun.

          For the lower water pump fastener, I would prefer the longer bolt that sticks past the water pump body. This bolt need to be partially threaded with a nut backed on and bottomed out on the threads and epoxied in place so it can't spin you. The longer bolt length makes it easier to control and guide the bolt through the water pump flange into the block. One the you get the thread started, you can just ratchet away.

          YMMV
          Thanks,
          Ron
          Portland, OR

          Comment

          • JOHN COOKSON
            Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
            • Nov 2008
            • 3500

            #6
            Originally posted by ronstory View Post
            John's idea of a stud on the top is great idea. It's pretty easy to get the washer and nut on the top stud, but trying to get the washer and nut a lower "blind" stud, IMO, would not be fun.

            For the lower water pump fastener, I would prefer the longer bolt that sticks past the water pump body. This bolt need to be partially threaded with a nut backed on and bottomed out on the threads and epoxied in place so it can't spin you. The longer bolt length makes it easier to control and guide the bolt through the water pump flange into the block. One the you get the thread started, you can just ratchet away.

            YMMV
            This is a great idea. Forgot about it. Thanks Ron. MMI (used to?) sells such an extended bolt just for the lower water pump bolt. No reason why you can't make your own.

            ex TRUE GRIT

            Comment

            • tenders
              Afourian MVP
              • May 2007
              • 1440

              #7
              Originally posted by JOHN COOKSON View Post
              This is a great idea. Forgot about it. Thanks Ron. MMI (used to?) sells such an extended bolt just for the lower water pump bolt. No reason why you can't make your own.

              ex TRUE GRIT
              The Extendobolt is the gentlemanly way to accomplish this objective.


              Might you want to install a Helicoil in the stripped bolt hole to keep the fasteners stock?

              Comment

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