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  #1   IP: 152.163.100.136
Old 02-23-2005, 01:41 PM
BBH BBH is offline
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Copper waterjacketed exhaust

Are there any Pearson Triton owners out there who can explain to me how to install a new exhaust flange, using the existing copper waterjacketed exhaust (CWE)? (I have my doubts about installing a waterlift muffler on a Pearson Triton, so I intend to stick with the old system for now.)

I have removed the old rusted-out exhaust flange at the exhaust outlet of the manifold, and the CWE is free. What I have left is a nipple of sorts inserted into the manifold end of the CWE.

The main body of the nipple is 1-1/2 inches OD. It sticks out about 1-1/2 inches from the end of the CWE and has a lip of about 1/4 inch high (2 inches total OD for the lip) on its manifold end. Apparently, the exhaust flange goes onto the nipple, but to do so the exhaust flange would either have to screw onto the nipple or the nipple would have to be removed from the CWE, the exhaust flange placed on the nipple, and the nipple reinserted into the CWE.

Any help out there?
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  #2   IP: 68.46.209.62
Old 09-04-2005, 01:18 PM
Figment Figment is offline
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Question

BBH,

What is your primary concern against using a waterlift muffler in a Triton?

Recent upgrades to the acoustic insulation of my Triton's engine compartment have consequently made me wish that the copper monster exhaust system would hush up. A waterlift conversion is working its way up my list of priority projects for this winter.
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  #3   IP: 69.231.213.179
Old 10-15-2005, 09:41 PM
tomt tomt is offline
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I also have a Triton, #601. I have had good success with a waterlift muffler system. The problem with our boats, seems to be that the engine is so far below the waterline. Using a siphon break in the cooling water injection system worked well for me. Also, a loop in the exhaust pipe up to near the cockpit floor is mandatory. The engine runs so much quieter with a muffler fitted. I have not had any problem with water backing up into the motor. The cockpit floor does get warm where the exhaust pipe is near, I wrapped it in the exhaust pipe wrap that is widely available, but not so warm as to be a problem. Contact me if you would like further info, Tom

Last edited by Don Moyer; 10-16-2005 at 08:07 AM.
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  #4   IP: 38.118.52.41
Old 10-16-2005, 08:07 AM
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Don Moyer Don Moyer is offline
 
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Thanks Tom. We get a lot of questions regarding the conversion from double-walled to water lift systems each year. Your experience is very useful.

Don
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  #5   IP: 64.222.59.173
Old 11-25-2005, 10:10 PM
jsedivy jsedivy is offline
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Copper waterjacketed exhaust

Quote:
Originally Posted by tomt
I also have a Triton, #601. I have had good success with a waterlift muffler system. The problem with our boats, seems to be that the engine is so far below the waterline. Using a siphon break in the cooling water injection system worked well for me. Also, a loop in the exhaust pipe up to near the cockpit floor is mandatory. The engine runs so much quieter with a muffler fitted. I have not had any problem with water backing up into the motor. The cockpit floor does get warm where the exhaust pipe is near, I wrapped it in the exhaust pipe wrap that is widely available, but not so warm as to be a problem. Contact me if you would like further info, Tom
Tom,

I'm about to embark on the same job in my 1972 Pearson 30. Any further info you can provide would be much appreciated. One question: why the "loop in the exhaust pipe up to near the cockpit floor"? I'm assuming that the raw water is injected into the far side of the loop (away from engine).

Best - John
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