engine only runs with excessive choke

[David Masury]

Instead of spraying carb cleaner or some other solvent based material around a running or hot engine, I strongly suggest using WD-40. It serves the same purpose and is much less explosive.

David

[Matridium]

I rebuilt the Carb because it had not been done in maybe 10 years, but on top of that, it was running quite poor. The low speed needle was worn down bad and need to be replaced. As for the not winterized, yes I did not do that; I was under lots of stress at the time. SO... I think that is were I'm going to start and I need to check that float again, fine point made...
Also can anyone tell me why the bushings I order (even though they are original replacement parts) are too big and have to be modified? I mean is there a need for the bushing on the needle?

by the way I did notice oil like stuff dripping from the drain plug on the high speed needle inlet at the bottom of the bowl. This maybe were air is leaking in?

also at higher speeds under load the motor losses lots of power and slows.

thanks for the advice I will keep this updated.

Mike

[perchance]

Checking for vacuum leaks

We were taught in trade school to use a propane torch to check for vacuum leaks on the intake side of the engine. Works like a charm.

[Marian Claire]

perchance: Please expound on using propane instead of starter fluid, carb cleaner, WD-40. Dan S/V Marian Claire

[sastanley]

Yes, please...any chance to remove ether from the equation is good!

[Matridium]

I have heard of that before is that not where you take the torch and use just the propane gas around gaskets and if the gas is pulled in you will hear a change in rpm?

[hanleyclifford]

and if...

the gas is NOT pulled in and burned it just ends up in the bilge. This is a dangerous idea on a boat. Let's think up something else.

[sastanley]

hanley, good point. Is propane even heavier than gasoline fumes?

At least when spraying ether/carb cleaner, some/most of it evaporates quickly, but it still isn't good for the motor.

[hanleyclifford]

propane in bilge

My understanding is that propane is heavier than air and will therefore settle in the bilge. That is why such stringent requirements are specified for boats carrying the stuff (regulators, alarms and most importantly tight containers with overboard drainage for propane lockers). I'm scared of the stuff - we cook with pressurized kerosene on the old Princess two burner (how about THAT for neanderthal, Neil?)

[roadnsky]

Hanley is correct...
Propane is heavier than air (1.5 times as dense).
In its raw state, propane sinks and pools at the floor.
This gas spreads out to cover several hundred times more area than the liquid from which it originally comes.
Also, it is much more volatile than gasoline.
CAUTION ALERT...

[ndutton]

Clueless on the dock

Propane is heavier than air (1.5 times as dense).
Also, it is much more volatile than gasoline.
CAUTION ALERT...

Which is exactly why I always ask the smug diesel guy looking down his nose at us gas guys what cooking fuel he has onboard. The vast majority have propane and nary a clue as to its potential for disaster.

[sastanley]

Go old-school!

Yup..Hanley I also have the Princess...I bought a couple of burners from some place out in CA (A & T Enterprises maybe??) a few years ago that will burn kerosene or alcohol for my step-dad's Princess on his Tartan.

I haven't had to rebuild mine yet, just a couple of gaskets/seals, & I am burning alcohol. It seems the only real downside to alcohol is that in bright daylight the flame is hard to see. If/when this stove fails I think I am going to the Origo non-pressurized.

[ArtJ]

I have installed a new carb on my late model engine this spring

The chokc is properly set and the engine starts immediately when cold
if priming bulb is pumped (facet pump).

The question is when the engine once warm is shutdown for 30 or minutes
it again requires choke to start without a lot of cranking.

I am wondering if the low speed mixture needs to be richer?

If so, where should this be done?

Thanks

Art

[Wade Rogers]

Engine Choke

I too have a bit of a choke problem and an engine idle issue: my A4 likes to run with a bit of choke until she's fully warmed up, then I can push the choke all the way in. She's fresh water cooled and typically runs at about 140 degrees and it takes about 10 minutes to get to that setting before I can push the choke all the way in.
Another issue I have is that it idles at around 1500 rpm's and when I try to adjust the idle speed down, the engine dies. I've not messed with the mixture screw (hard to get to it) but think that might be the problem. The engine has had some recent work done to it including new points/plugs/condenser/plug wires/rotor cap/rotor so I know the ignition system is in good shape.
I'm going to try to adjust the mixter screw this weekend but any tips the forum can give me would be appreciated...
Wade

[hanleyclifford]

Welcome to the forum, Wade. The initial setting on the idle adjustment screw should be 1 1/2 turns out from seat position. On this carb turning the screw in(clockwise) makes the mixture richer. Regarding the ignition work, don't take anything for granted - if you stick around this forum you'll see what I mean. If you don't already have one, get your personal copy of the Moyer Marine Overhaul and Repair Manual. All the best, Hanley