Looking for an A4 Mechanic in Kentucky Lake

[JTG1160]

I have a 1960 Tripp 30 with a 30 HP A4. Did a recent successful bench test on it prior to installing back into the boat and looking for help with final hook ups and getting it running smoothly. Located at Green Turtle Bay Marina but don't think they have anybody very familiar with the A4s, any recommendations?

John

[ndutton]

Our experience with professional A4 mechanics has been very poor. Usually you're far better off investing in a Moyer Manual (available on this site) and following the guidance offered on this forum.

[joe_db]

What he said. Most of them will end up making it worse

[capnward]

+1 on DIY

I'm wondering why you felt the need to remove the engine to test it. Sounds like it was your mechanic's idea. Was it not running? If so, then what was done to make it run? What constitutes a successful bench test?
The best way to learn how to install the engine is to remove it yourself and take notes and photos of each step, (what wires were connected, etc.), then reverse the process. I did it once for a rebuild in 2001. As I recall, the trickiest part was getting the correct shims in place between the engine and the engine mounts, so that the shaft couplings were the same clearance all the way around. It wasn't hard because I made notes which shims were under each corner of the engine when I removed it. Hopefully you or your mechanic did that.
To learn how to get it running smoothly, you have come to the right place. The Moyer Company, the Moyer Manual and this forum will enable you to enjoy many years of trouble-free operation, if you learn about the needs of an A4. I would also suggest that you get the excellent videos available on this site, especially the carburetor video. In my experience, most problems derive from junk in the fuel tank, but fresh filters and non-ethanol fuel help. Fresh water cooling and electronic ignition are essential, IMO.
To me, a big part of the joy of having a boat with an engine is learning how to work on it, doing the work, fixing or preventing the problem, and then going sailing. May your experience be similar to mine. (I hope, better.)

[JTG1160]

Engine had been out of the boat for several seasons so I asked for the bench test which constituted start-up and running at approx. 2000 rpm for approx. 15 min. Not much of a bench test but at least I know it runs. My next step is to remove some very old gas from the tank and clean out the lines and filters. Other recommendations prior to starting it? I was thinking that a rebuild of the carb would be a good idea? Appreciate the tips!

[joe_db]

Who put the engine back in?
Is it wired and plumbed?
Control cables hooked up?
Shaft aligned?
What does the fuel system look like?
What is the tank made of?
What kind of fuel pump?
How old are the hoses?
What kind of exhaust system and how old?
Any photos would help!
I would also think about a temporary tank for testing. Cleaning the carb can never hurt either.

[roadnsky]

Engine had been out of the boat for several seasons so I asked for the bench test which constituted start-up and running at approx. 2000 rpm for approx. 15 min...

Please tell us that the 2000 RPM was in gear and NOT in neutral for 15 min?

[joe_db]

Please tell us that the 2000 RPM was in gear and NOT in neutral for 15 min?

If it is not in a boat, why would that matter? No load either way.

[thatch]

I would think that the answer to this debate lies somewhere in the middle. Since we're taking this engine "out of mothballs" all of it's functions should be "exercised". By this I mean, going from neutral, shifting into forward and occasionally putting it into reverse will insure that all of its duties will be checked. Going through it's normal rpm range is also a good idea. "On the bench" testing also offers an opportunity to make the forward and reverse adjustments. It's been my experience that the reverse band can be tightened up a bit on most A4s while still still retaining a good neutral.
Tom

[Dave Neptune]

Choices

John, none of the "installation" work is particularly difficult. The difficulty in approaching the "installation project" is to not look at the big picture but to just do the "jobs" one at a time. Doing these jobs one at a time will get it done and make you far more familiar with the A--4 and it's simplicity.

Approach one thing at a time with the forums guidance and you will be many $'s ahead. Offering up a few "liquid breads" for assistance is also a better investment unless you can find a n A-4 qualified mechanic.

Dave Neptune

[JTG1160]

I'll send some pics this on Monday when I'm back with the boat. Dave I love your use of the word simplicity because I have to admit it's a bit daunting but I just spent last winter rebuilding a 1930 Model A engine so ready for the next challenge. I like the idea of one job at a time and after getting rid of the old gas it would seem like the shaft alignment would be the next logical step. The engine is currently sitting on the studs but not tightened down. Joe is that what you were referring to on "wired and plumbed" as well?

[joe_db]

I'll send some pics this on Monday when I'm back with the boat. Dave I love your use of the word simplicity because I have to admit it's a bit daunting but I just spent last winter rebuilding a 1930 Model A engine so ready for the next challenge. I like the idea of one job at a time and after getting rid of the old gas it would seem like the shaft alignment would be the next logical step. The engine is currently sitting on the studs but not tightened down. Joe is that what you were referring to on "wired and plumbed" as well?

Wiring and plumbing was a separate step from shaft alignment.
FYI - The Atomic 4 design dates back to the Model A days and the engine is a lot closer to that than to a modern car engine.

[Al Schober]

A clean fuel system is step 1 for any engine that hasn't run in a long while. This should be done BEFORE you even try to start it. This is true for a Model A, and Atomic 4, or a vintage Mercedes.
Friend bought an old neglected Mercedes and had it loaded onto a flat bed and brought home - before he even turned the key! He flushed the tank and fuel lines, replaced the fuel pump and filters, and added fresh fuel. Then he turned the key. Additional engine work was minor.
Exception to this if you take a tank of fresh fuel with pump and filter to hook directly to the engine, but you could still have a carb issue.

[JTG1160]

On a Model A engine typically use kerosene to flush the fuel tank and tranny, same here or just use new gas?

[JTG1160]

and where are the best instructions for the shaft alignment?