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  #26   IP: 155.186.122.195
Old 01-13-2021, 02:49 PM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is offline
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No issues with the stabilizer just stay within recommended dosage.

There has to be a gap or an imperfection between the cover and the hole. A careful visual inspection and feel may yield something. Don't use silicone based sealants on old oily cast iron as it will not "stick". Use something sticky like Permatex #2/

Check to see how the plate "seats" on the hole flange once cleaned. It should not rock around and the plate should cover the entire "hole". Look for a chip in the block side or a warped cover from overtightening possibly.

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  #27   IP: 45.48.80.165
Old 01-13-2021, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Neptune View Post
No issues with the stabilizer just stay within recommended dosage.

There has to be a gap or an imperfection between the cover and the hole. A careful visual inspection and feel may yield something. Don't use silicone based sealants on old oily cast iron as it will not "stick". Use something sticky like Permatex #2/

Check to see how the plate "seats" on the hole flange once cleaned. It should not rock around and the plate should cover the entire "hole". Look for a chip in the block side or a warped cover from overtightening possibly.

Dave Neptune
Alright thanks Dave.
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Old 01-13-2021, 06:11 PM
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Hey guys I removed oil I still have blue smoke i did see some smoke coming out of the reversing gear and the oil smells pretty gassy
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  #29   IP: 155.186.122.195
Old 01-13-2021, 06:26 PM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is offline
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You probably got some fuel to puddle on the pistons when the float was sticking. That fuel will run past the rings and join the oil. How much did the oil go up? And a little fuel mixed with the oil will smell for quite a while.

Might just change out the oil for piece of mind then run her for a bit.

You may need to set the timing after playing with the distributor. To much advance in the timing can cause additional blow-by and smoking. And be sure the c-advance is functioning first then set the timing.

Dave Neptune
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Old 01-13-2021, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave Neptune View Post
You probably got some fuel to puddle on the pistons when the float was sticking. That fuel will run past the rings and join the oil. How much did the oil go up? And a little fuel mixed with the oil will smell for quite a while.

Might just change out the oil for piece of mind then run her for a bit.

You may need to set the timing after playing with the distributor. To much advance in the timing can cause additional blow-by and smoking. And be sure the c-advance is functioning first then set the timing.

Dave Neptune

Gotchya. Ok I just changed the oil. Still same issue. Still a little slick. I did remember that when I originally replaced that plate I took the push rod out. Then later I reinstalled the pushrod . There was a little damage on the plate where the dimple is on the plate. .

I'll start checking the others you have listed. I also noticed, just by luck that the exhaust seems to have a pinhole leak. A little piece of debris on the exhaust started moving when the boat was running
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  #31   IP: 165.225.20.191
Old 01-14-2021, 02:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Rando1201 View Post
No the firing order is 1243, but 3&4 were crossed up because I was following that same sequence on the distributer cap. When looking at the cap, the order is sequential.
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Every few months, somebody does it... and I fill less stupid once put back in the right order, it purrs like a kitten, and the anger of having been stupid is challenged by the profound pleasure of the new, joyful, smooth, and stable low rpm running ! enjoy!
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Old 01-14-2021, 09:15 AM
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Well, I goofed this one up. I reset the timing, added MMO to the cylinders, boat won't start.
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Old 01-14-2021, 10:52 AM
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You violated 2 Prime Directives:
1. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
2. Don't fix 2 things at once.
Assuming you didn't do some third unknown thing, either the timing is too far off to even start or the plugs are too oil-fouled to fire. Or both.
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Old 01-14-2021, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by joe_db View Post
You violated 2 Prime Directives:
1. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
2. Don't fix 2 things at once.
Assuming you didn't do some third unknown thing, either the timing is too far off to even start or the plugs are too oil-fouled to fire. Or both.
Yep. I gotta slow down. One little engine...
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Old 01-14-2021, 11:15 AM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is offline
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How did you reset the timing? Very small movements at a time!

The MMO will burn off and the plugs may be fouled.

No start = start from scratch.
Check for spark
Check for fuel
Compression probably still fine

Did you try using "motor crack" (start fluid)?

Dave Neptune
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Old 01-14-2021, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave Neptune View Post
How did you reset the timing? Very small movements at a time!

The MMO will burn off and the plugs may be fouled.

No start = start from scratch.
Check for spark
Check for fuel
Compression probably still fine

Did you try using "motor crack" (start fluid)?

Dave Neptune
well, I got myself tucked into a lazerette, a socket wrench on the flywheel, found when compression was hitting the #1 cylinder with my thumb, roll pin straight up and down. Then followed the rest of the instructions with the distributor cap and rotor. The only thing that I had noticed, is that when I was using the continuity tester, I could only get the light to come on with the ignition switch turned on. And the light would stay on no matter how much I turned the distrubuter.
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Old 01-14-2021, 11:52 AM
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The "continuity" method of setting timing won't work with most EI's. And with the power left on there is a good chance you fried another coil. They can't be left "on" long without running as they will overheat internally and open a winding!

Try this, get #1 on the compression stroke and as close to TDC as you can get it .
Now be sure the distributor is loose enough you can twist it by hand with little force.
Now remove the cap and check to see that the rotor is pointed at the #1 plug wire lug on the distributor. Adjust the rotation accordingly to line them up. And again be sure that the wires are in order and going to the correct plug.

Now it is time to try and start. Be sure the idle screw is about 1 3/4 turns off the seat, which would be a bit rich an a good carb and an easier start. Now spray a bit of motor crack in the throat of the carb and hit the key. If it starts let it warm a bit or give the distributor a twist first of about 1/4" (not much) either way if it improves try a bit more or if it's worse try the other way. Just get it to run for a bit so it's warmed up.

NOTE the distributor rotated at 1/2 speed so a 5* on the distributor is 10* of timing, so small twists!

Once warmed you can power time the engine or go through the process of setting a timing mark up your self, many of us have and most have not.

Dave Neptune
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Old 01-14-2021, 11:54 AM
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If you are unsure of power timing send me a PM and I will try to talk you through it.

Dave Neptune
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Old 01-14-2021, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Neptune View Post
The "continuity" method of setting timing won't work with most EI's. And with the power left on there is a good chance you fried another coil. They can't be left "on" long without running as they will overheat internally and open a winding!

Try this, get #1 on the compression stroke and as close to TDC as you can get it .
Now be sure the distributor is loose enough you can twist it by hand with little force.
Now remove the cap and check to see that the rotor is pointed at the #1 plug wire lug on the distributor. Adjust the rotation accordingly to line them up. And again be sure that the wires are in order and going to the correct plug.

Now it is time to try and start. Be sure the idle screw is about 1 3/4 turns off the seat, which would be a bit rich an a good carb and an easier start. Now spray a bit of motor crack in the throat of the carb and hit the key. If it starts let it warm a bit or give the distributor a twist first of about 1/4" (not much) either way if it improves try a bit more or if it's worse try the other way. Just get it to run for a bit so it's warmed up.

NOTE the distributor rotated at 1/2 speed so a 5* on the distributor is 10* of timing, so small twists!

Once warmed you can power time the engine or go through the process of setting a timing mark up your self, many of us have and most have not.

Dave Neptune

Ok the power wasn't left on, it was only on while I was using the tester. About the coil, I did swap it out for one that requires a resistor, which I wired red from the distributor. I had a timing mark when I did this initially in my garage. Funny that the continuity method worked when I did this last april in my grage. but im gonna go back there tonight, and do it all over again. I messed something up.
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Old 01-14-2021, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave Neptune View Post
If you are unsure of power timing send me a PM and I will try to talk you through it.

Dave Neptune
Thanks Dave, Ill do it. I totally understand the concept. One thing I haven't told you is that when I initially got the motor I had my fiance cut out an exhaust gasket. Well she got frustrated, never finished it out. so i installed the gasket with out the hole in it. Forgot about it for about a month, in that months time. I did everything to get it running in my garage. Timing was one of those things that I must of done 5 times or more.
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Old 01-14-2021, 06:29 PM
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Now the plugs are getting soaked. Is there anyway to burn off the mmo?
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Old 01-14-2021, 08:44 PM
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Alright so I went and reset the timing. Took me three tries. There's still some smoke, but much less at idle and I'm mainly only seeing it when I put a load on it in gear.
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Old 01-15-2021, 12:00 PM
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Every few months, somebody does it... and I fill less stupid once put back in the right order, it purrs like a kitten...
For future viewers of this thread, here is a diagram...
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Old 01-15-2021, 01:59 PM
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Alright so I went and reset the timing. Took me three tries. There's still some smoke, but much less at idle and I'm mainly only seeing it when I put a load on it in gear.
Don't worry about it for now. The engine just might burn a little oil or it may all burn off.
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Old 01-15-2021, 09:37 PM
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Ok went down there today. Used the permatex #2 , almost fixed the leak. Also fixed my oil pressure adjustment valve. The engine seems pretty dialed. I ran the boat through out the harbor. Did big 360s used reverse. Tested doing bursts of throttle. At first I thought the engine had no power . I was kinda bummed, but now I am very very happy. Every thing is so smooth I mean its seamless from idle to gear. No bogging or lagging in the throttle acceleration. I think I may have a small exhaust leak or intake leak. I hear a very very slight hissing.
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Old 01-16-2021, 07:49 AM
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...Then later I reinstalled the pushrod . There was a little damage on the plate where the dimple is on the plate.
So is the push rod still in there?
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Old 01-16-2021, 09:58 AM
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So is the push rod still in there?
No its not.
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Old 01-16-2021, 11:16 AM
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Ok went down there today. Used the permatex #2 , almost fixed the leak. Also fixed my oil pressure adjustment valve. The engine seems pretty dialed. I ran the boat through out the harbor. Did big 360s used reverse. Tested doing bursts of throttle. At first I thought the engine had no power . I was kinda bummed, but now I am very very happy. Every thing is so smooth I mean its seamless from idle to gear. No bogging or lagging in the throttle acceleration. I think I may have a small exhaust leak or intake leak. I hear a very very slight hissing.
With the engine running pour a cap full of MMO in the carb. You'll get a cloud of smoke out of the exhaust and it should make any exhaust leak obvious.
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Old 01-16-2021, 11:42 AM
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Slight hissing?
Does this video give you any ideas about where to look, aside from an exhaust leak?

Bill
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Old 01-18-2021, 09:56 AM
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Does this video give you any ideas about where to look, aside from an exhaust leak?

Bill
I'll take a look thanks
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