Tweet
I have an early model A4 with an Auto-Lite distributor (see pics). Needs a good teardown which leads to my question: are the parts for the Pertonix distributor in the on-line catalog compatible with Auto-Lite? Also in the underside of the Distributor cap there is a "2" by one of the points (see pic), assume that is for Wire #2 going to cylinder #2? Last question, how do I remove the distributor drive gear at the bottom of the rotor, do you tap the pin out with something? Thx!
-
-
All kinds of parts including Pertronix
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
Maryland USA -
I have a 1966 A4 for 40 + years with a "Prestolite" brand distributor as well as a couple of old spares. From your picture it looks identical to your "Auto lite" even down to the labeling and i believe I read somewhere that they are/were the same firm through aquisition etc [Std cap AL-25 or Echlin Al91] In any event use a very small " punch" on the pin - not rocket science. I would just note to be careful with this old distributor itself since replacement components are not in stock.
As far as the molded "2" in the cap and the #2 wire admittedly I never paid attention to it. On early model A4's at TDC on #1 cylinder the rotor should point aft to provide clearance for the little oil cap on the side. Rest follow the 1243 sequence. [Note on late model A4's you will read that the the rotor points starboard at TDC]Comment
-
Thx Sam, i tapped the pin out easy enough and disassembled the remainder of the distributor keeping care not to damage any of the parts as you say. I am curious about what the purpose of the small springs and the subassembly below the plate which holds the points. Any idea what that does?Comment
-
That is a mechanical advance. As the rpm goes up, the springs have to stretch in order to pull the weights around in a circle. This allows the timing to change as the rpm increases.
This mechanism needs to be well lubricated in order for the engine to produce good power at higher rpm.
Be well,
PeterComment
-
Thx Peter! I can see how that works. One of the arms holding a spring was developing a slight fatigue crack so I dapped a very small amount of JB Weld on it. So I'll be a dab on the other arm as well to keep the balance.Comment
-
It is easy to reassemble the advance backwards. DAMHIK
When you are done the rotor should move a few degrees clockwise (advance) and stop. When you let go of the rotor the springs should rotate the rotor back those few degrees.
ex TRUE GRITComment
-
Also, very good chance you would benefit from a couple of new distributor springs from Moyer.Comment
-
Really appreciate this guys! Here's a pic of when I first opened up the distributor cap with the rotor still on the engine. Note the little oil cap on the distributor body is all the way over toward the engine block (right next to the water intake line) whereas when I look at Don's YouTube video on Ignition timing it shows the alignment of the oil cap almost directly away from the block (for the early models). Is there a correct position or does it matter and it really only matters where you position the tip of the rotor as I guess in the end you just want the tip of the rotor to start out at the #1 spark plug post? Hope this question makes sense!Comment
-
There is a stock position (what you have termed correct position) - how the distributor was oriented when the engine left the factory.Originally posted by JTG1160 View Post
What you said is true. The distributor can be oriented any number of degrees off the stock position as long as the spark arrives to cylinder #1 when it is at TDC compression. Before I mess with the distributor I always put #1 at TDC compression so I have a reference if I need it.
ex TRUE GRITComment
-
Thx John! Do you know what that factory stock position is (oil tube pointed toward the block or away from it)? And do you know if that #2 insignia inside of the distr cap is for the #2 wire? Seems pretty obvious it is but wanted to check.Comment
-
The only marks determining placement of plug wires I have ever seen on a cap was the #1 designate for the "FACTORY ASSEMBLY". The "2" on the inside is just a casting number of some sort.
The position of the number one on reassembly depends on which gear teeth you drop the distributor in on. Factory positions are fine but not necessary at all!!! The distributor does not care as TDC (compression stroke) for #1 piston & plug wire is all you need. The rest of the wires just go in order from there.
Dave Neptune
Comment
-
All of what you read above from these experienced folks is all very true. When I was a newbe with this engine 4 decades ago I had the same problem - oil cap hitting the block, couldn't time right without shorting out. Maybe to simplify - get to TDC, remove the distributor, rotate gear a bit so points are about to open and reinstall so that the oil cap is more aft away from the block an inch or so - The rotor tip should be pointing about aft and you now have room to rotate for approximate timing. [from the pics you need some lubrication on the flyweights etc]Comment
-
Dave and Sam, thank you very much for your insights. Any recommended lubrication for the flyweights and the rotor shaft itself before I re-install?Comment
-
Any light machine oil, such as 3 in 1, works fine.
ex TRUE GRITComment
Comment