Valves revealed.... photos.

[Mo]

Once you have removed the head gasket and cleaned the surfaces shoot us another pick...just so we can have a look for cracks. I would not remove any studs that are in the block...clean around them. You will likely have her up and running a couple of hours after getting your parts.

Now you can turn it over and see exactly what your valves are doing...good job.

[DDO]

I'm cleaning off the parts and each day trying the solvents overnight and tap-tap-tapping the valve down again and again, tappet+gauge pushing it back up. It remains very stuck. Acetone/ATF doesn't seem to help. Cleaning up the head (it is "MMI") and it looks good except one long gouge. I've ordered new parts for that valve if I can get it out. How 'bout I try Kroil next?

[Mo]

Kroil isn't as good as the acetone and ATF...so when you say tap, what do you mean. I'd drive the acetone down around it then get a punch and hammer...1/4 inch flat punch in center of valve and give it the smack...about as hard as you would tap somebody on the chin bothering your kid...smack...dead center on the valve. It will go...it just doesn't know it yet. Just have a look in through the side plate and ensure there is space for it to move (in case you rotated the engine)...you need that gap there as I saw in the previous picture...your #1 post. Double check that first.

A flat end punch, as seen in picture, placed in the dead center of the valve and give it a smack. Try that.

[DDO]

The valve and spring dropped on its own finally...

Thanks! Well, well, the centered punch worked. Smacking hard onto a flat blade held over the valve didn't and now of course it seems obvious. I did check every time that there is the room for the movement and try to protect the tappet. When it finally went, and for the next many times, it had a loud click. Finally went without noise. So, thanks much for the tip. Tonight I am just leaving it with the spring down full so it can recall what that feels like. I am thinking of pulling the valve out to inspect and then might as well replace it.

[ronstory]

Here is a thread that my help with cleaning the valve and guides if you go to the "next level" of disassembly.

https://www.moyermarineforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10482

That said, you do seem to be a curious one.

[DDO]

If you are able to zoom in on the photo, you see the pistons' tops have engravings on them -- numbers: 1,2,3,4, but also "Front" and an arrow that points to the aft end of the engine. That made no sense to me or 4 would be 1. Just another thing that made me curious. I'll be moving on to "valve replacement" info found in the other threads and the manuals. Followed by "valve adjustment". In the course of reassembling the engine I may start a new thread, but as for this one, I guess it concludes. Thanks all for wonderful help.

[Dave Neptune]

The back of the engine is the flywheel end and the trans runs off the front.

Dave Neptune

[ndutton]

The back of the engine is the flywheel end and the trans runs off the front.

I'll add that machine shops always consider the timing gears to be on the front of the engine and number the cylinders starting there.

[Surcouf]

Tonight I am just leaving it with the spring down full so it can recall what that feels like. I am thinking of pulling the valve out to inspect and then might as well replace it.

now that you have done 98% of the work (removing head and manifold), just get the valves out to clean them, clean valve guides, and potentially a quick seat lapping. It is relatively easy to do, and should not require spare parts. This should restaure some more compression. Based on how stuck the valve was, a few keepers will very likely be stuck too. See my overhaul thread, post 67 and following, on how to use Don's technique to remove stubborn keepers

https://www.moyermarineforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11241&page=3

[Mo]

I agree, you are there now so removing them all, cleaning everything up and re-seating / lapping them would be a great move. Inspect valves for signs of cracks as well, if in doubt use a magnifying glass. Worked on one last year that a valve had broken off and close inspection showed it had a crack for a while before it broke.

Personally, I always have trouble with keepers removing and installing keepers. You will need to place a rag or paper towel and block any pieces from falling into the base pan...very important. Luckily, I have a mechanic buddy that put in the keepers for me the few times I had to get them out...even for friends. He has good gear and it takes him minutes.

All the best.

[ronstory]

To what Mo said, especially putting rags to block the oil return holes to keep the keepers for going "walk-a-about" into inconvenient places of the engine.

Also, during assembly, using a touch of grease on keeper to "stick" it to valve stem works wonders in keeping them in place as you release the valve compression tool.

Finally, it helps in both removing and installing the valve to have rotate the engine to close valve you are compressing with the tool. When the valve is closed the spring pressure the compressor has to overcome is lower. Otherwise you may notice your tool may start to bend. Not, that has ever happened to me... but I have a 'friend'....