T-type cooling water exhaust entry fitting

[gofastshoes]

Hi all,
New member from Rochester, NY, Lake Ontario sailor, 1976 Islander 28, 3rd year for me, but I've had it on the hard the last two years (high lake levels 2017 and not enough time 2018 for bottom job).
The fitting going into exhaust that I have from PO has the 4 small holes. The one shown in on-line catalog appears to be open pipe nipple. I know I need to do an acid flush, but this restriction has caused clogs and overheating on a couple of occasions (4th of July watching fireworks out on Lake Ontario 2016 and 2019 from Rochester Harbor). Is the nice spray from the 4 small holes required or can I just hacksaw off the end so it doesn't collect rusticles and stop cooling water (RWC set up)? I want to do a muriatic acid flush with separate recirc pump vs. engine running to take this fitting out of the equation. Does this sound plausible?
Thanks,
Kevin
(not sure what I'm doing with picture attachments)
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[Antibes]

Does your fitting have an opening in the bottom as well as the sides?

You can start with vinegar instead of muriatic acid if the circulation is real poor and not worry about any damage.

BTW I own a 78 Islander 28 and love the boat

[ndutton]

I think the original fitting would work fine on a FWC A4 with a raw water strainer but no way on a RWC engine because of what you have experienced, rust flakes clogging up the works. Go for the Moyer style water injection fitting at a minimum and always consider FWC to prolong your engine's life.

[gofastshoes]

Exhaust T fitting

Exhaust T fitting:
Thanks for the replies. My fitting is closed at the bottom; just the four small holes. I think I’ll take ndutton’s advice and hacksaw off the bottom.