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  #26   IP: 97.32.71.51
Old 05-22-2017, 05:31 PM
Ken Rockwell Ken Rockwell is offline
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If you're blocks cracked, I've got one almost ready to be put back together. I'm in upstate New York. $1500 obo.
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  #27   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 05-22-2017, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe_db View Post
You can plug one end and just blow in the other for a real quick test!
To clarify, Joe's talking about the water ports on the top of the manifold, NOT the rusty exhaust port. Let's get the testing done before buying anything, Okay?
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  #28   IP: 72.224.198.174
Old 05-22-2017, 05:56 PM
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A4 parts

I live in Bangor and have a good manifold, and a cleaned and resurfaced head and block.
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  #29   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 05-26-2017, 08:51 PM
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Hey Kaiser, did you ever test the manifold? Whazzup? Don't leave us hangin'.
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  #30   IP: 173.244.48.59
Old 05-27-2017, 09:59 PM
jkaiser77 jkaiser77 is offline
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Ok, here's the update...

I did two pressure tests using equipment in the photo below. I used thread seal tape and tightened things pretty hard.

Pumped the pressure to a little over 20 psi. In both tests, pressure dropped to about 12-13 psi after 30 minutes.

I'm assuming this indicates the manifold has a leak? If so, should I take it to a machine shop to get it professionally checked out?

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  #31   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 05-27-2017, 10:06 PM
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Please do the same test but this time spritz some diluted liquid dish soap on all the threaded fittings, core plugs and Schrader valve. Any leak in those areas will show up in the form of bubbles. This test is intended to eliminate external factors.

Dilution should be 1 part soap to 2 parts water.
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  #32   IP: 173.244.48.59
Old 05-28-2017, 10:15 AM
jkaiser77 jkaiser77 is offline
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Wow, bubbles everywhere. Tried cranking things tighter but they're about as tight as I can get.

Next steps?
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  #33   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 05-28-2017, 10:33 AM
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Hmmm, the leaks could account for the pressure drop meaning the test does not necessarily condemn the manifold. Maybe take apart and reassemble with more/different sealant? Did bubbles form at the core plugs?

Sounds like a similar but slightly different test is needed. You said you had acetone on hand. Try pouring some into a water inlet taking care to keep the exhaust ports dry, reinstall the test apparatus and pressurize. Look for signs of wetness in the exhaust ports.

Something that might be happening (a guess at this point) is there may be the breach we suspect but it's minor until the manifold is heated, then it opens up making it much worse in use.

We should not be convinced as to the health of the manifold either way yet.
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  #34   IP: 173.244.48.59
Old 05-28-2017, 11:00 AM
jkaiser77 jkaiser77 is offline
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This might be a crazy idea, but what about covering the threaded fittings with silicone to (hopefully) create a better seal? Then retesting with the diluted soap?
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  #35   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 05-28-2017, 11:05 AM
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My experience with threaded fittings is applying sealant to the outside rarely if ever works. Maybe I'm not understanding how you want to use the silicone.
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  #36   IP: 173.244.48.59
Old 05-28-2017, 11:34 AM
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I was thinking of putting silicone where the male and female components meet, i.e. where the bubbles came from.
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Old 05-28-2017, 12:12 PM
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Whatever works. We want to test the manifold, not the threaded pieces necessary for the test.
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  #38   IP: 74.99.165.52
Old 05-28-2017, 12:18 PM
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Don Moyer Don Moyer is offline
 
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Block test

I'm willing to believe for now that the manifold is OK and it's time to test the block. You won't be able to do a pressure test with the head removed, but you can carefully fill the water jacket in the block with water while watching the rusty spot in the exhaust port. If you see any water seeping from the rusty area you will have found your leak. Don
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  #39   IP: 98.171.161.182
Old 05-28-2017, 01:55 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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Try some green food coloring in the water. Or better yet put a fluorescent dye in the water and look around the suspect area with a black light in the dark.

TRUE GRIT
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  #40   IP: 97.32.4.97
Old 05-29-2017, 06:42 PM
Ken Rockwell Ken Rockwell is offline
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I would put it together and run it outside the boat, just to make sure it's not blowing white smoke. I'm guessing by the nice looking surfaces, that any crack either, does not exist, or would be too small to see. Maybe it's just a bad head gasket. If it smokes you can take the suspects to a machine shop. Or just buy a parts engine if you think process of elimination is cheaper/faster.
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  #41   IP: 23.30.29.82
Old 05-29-2017, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkaiser77 View Post
...I used thread seal tape and tightened things pretty hard. ...

...Wow, bubbles everywhere. Tried cranking things tighter but they're about as tight as I can get.

Next steps?
In my experience, you have to use three full wraps of the teflon sealing tape in order to get a good seal. It works by getting compressed into the bottoms of the threads and sealing that space. If there's not enough thickness of tape, a long spiral void is left and will leak. Tightening won't help.
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jkaiser77 (05-30-2017)
  #42   IP: 173.244.48.40
Old 06-17-2017, 04:57 PM
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Update:

The machine shop pressure tested the manifold, and it's totally fine. Just needs some new freeze plugs.

He also said the head definitely needs to be resurfaced, so I'm wondering if that offers a clue. The head came off pretty easy, and its gaskets were far less stuck to the head/block than other gaskets I removed. I'm wondering if water maybe snuck into cylinder 1 that way?

Still waiting on the magna flux test for the block.

Here's a photo of the head when it came off:

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