How long does it take?

[splashlog]

I am chasing a fuel issue or so I think. How long does a carb take to empty while running the engine? My rig is firing up but then only lasts a minute or so before stopping. I just changed out all the old fuel lines, but this rig has an electric pump (Carter 152-875) which I believe is pushing pretty hard (I do not have a pressure gauge), but I think it's putting out 10-15 psi which I know is total overkill, could this be forcing the float needle shut? I also suspect there may be a possible air leak in the carb itself (older 4 bolt version) could an air leak be causing this shut down?

The previous set up had miles of fuel hoses in three different sizes and two filters. It's now ALL 3/8" and only one filter (after the pump). Is it possible that by cleaning up the fuel path, that there is just too much psi now?

I am trying to source a decent afordable fuel pressure regulator/gauge any suggestions?

I also just recently installed EI, new coil and had to re-time and had trouble getting any turnover at all until I put in new plugs. Starts OK now, just won't stay running.

I should mention too that there is a bit of water in the oil, which I meant to change out once I had the engine running, could this have an effect?

So hive mind, needle stuck, airleak, timing, water in oil, time for a new hobby?

As usual, any insight will be rewarded with good karma..

[ndutton]

1 - 2 minutes at idle on one bowl of fuel.

[sastanley]

Or, just long enough you've dropped all the lines from the dock and have just backed the boat out into the fairway !!

[tenders]

Originally Posted by sastanley

Or, just long enough you've dropped all the lines from the dock and have just backed the boat out into the fairway !!

Yeah, I was going to say "three boat lengths after you float off of the marine railway system at 3/4 reverse throttle."

[Sam]

well, carb is designed to run on 1-2psi, most folks have Facet pumps [Moyer] 1-3psi to 2-4psi range. 4psi+ is for long fuel runs from the tank. Not having some kind of filter [10 to 40 micron] between the tank and pump can be problematic. Not sure about your pump but most have a built in permanent filter [about 70 microns] that can get clogged. Just before the carb a polishing filter at 10 microns is recommended. In your case a fuel pressure gauge in the 0 - 15psi range between carb and pump would become your new best friend [Marshall stainless steel liquid filled @ about $20 and $12 adaptor]

With luck maybe your float is just sticking. As I get older and lazier I sometimes opt for the simple quick fix vs carb cleaning/rebuild.- pull the carb main passage plug and generously spray some carb cleaner with a flexible tube into the chamber. I have done this couple while on a cruise and it worked well.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Every time I hear of shut downs after a bowl of fuel has been burned I think of the OPSS. Probably because it happened to me a few times over the years.
I carried a little tang of metal in my tool box; all I had to do is pull the wires off the OPSS and connect them to either end the tang wrap it with tape and the OPSS was bypassed.

The OPSS is easy to check - just bypass the OPSS and see if the shutdowns go away.

ex TRUE GRIT

[splashlog]

I should point out there is no OPSS in this set up. Yesterday I noticed that upon shut down there is a strange hissing sound coming from the engine. It sounds like water contacting a very hot surface. I also discovered a little bit of water leaking from the brass T where the water intake is. I ran the engine with both the pump on and off, but it still shuts down after 30-60 seconds. Could it be a stuck valve letting in water from the exhaust?
Scratching head.

[capnward]

When you changed fuel lines, did you change filters? Try opening your fuel fill cap, in case your fuel tank vent is clogged, and the pump can't draw fuel. Once you get a fuel pressure gauge, you can tell if the pump is working right, and pushing fuel up against the float valve. My mechanical pump creates 3 or 4 psi when the fuel line is pressurized. Since you had to re-time, did you try turning the distributor while it is running to see if that makes it run better? Turning it clockwise retards timing and richens the mixture, as I understand it. Usually after people re-time to TDC they set the timing running too. Also, try keeping the choke on longer after you start. If it runs longer, you could have an air leak at the carb gaskets. If it starts to run rough, push in the choke. I doubt your hissing sound is from anything getting hot after 60 seconds of running. How is your compression?
Do you see gray oil on the dipstick? If so, go ahead and change oil now, even if cold. Don't leave water in the crankcase. But a little water in your oil won't make it shut down.
If it turns out your float valve is sticking, you may need a fuel pump with less psi, which may be forcing the rubber tip of the needle harder into the seat. MMO in the fuel could help that. Maybe the filter in your pump is clogged. Your coil and plugs are new, and it starts, so I doubt it's electrical, other than possibly timing. Also, while it's running wiggle the ignition wires, there may be something loose.
This is your new hobby. A4 diagnostics. Enjoy! Once you figure that out, the actual sailing will be even sweeter.

[splashlog]

I have a fuel pressure guage on it's way. This should give me insight into the fuel system. The filter is clean, and the fuel is new, high grade stuff with only a bit of Stabil for fun. I do have a spare carb kicking arround as well, but I might try messing with the needle adjusment first on the one on the engine now. I should also point out that the alternator is off the engine, but my understanding is that an engine like this with a decent battery should run for hours at the very least. I will try to run with both batteries on next attempt just for kicks. I get good voltage at the coil though..If my fuel pressure is too high for the carb I will look at installing a pressure regulator, because I need to make that tiny engine compartment look like a hadron collider..Anyone got suggestions for an affordable regulator Amazon has a few, but not sure if I trust anything fuel related from there..FYI I am in Kanuckystan, so getting stuff from USA gets really pricey with shipping, duties, and of course our super strong peso..Not to mention I am unemployed at the moment as well