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  #1   IP: 70.160.79.223
Old 10-10-2010, 10:56 AM
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NorfolkRagbagger NorfolkRagbagger is offline
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Reverse gear overheat??

After numerous repair and replacement of fuel pump etc. since unfreezing the engine this summer, I finally got the engine running well enough. Yesterday I warmed up the engine to do another oil change, because I suspect there is still some of the many fluids (other than oil!) in the crank case I poured in the spark plug holes to free her up.

All was well being in forward gear at idle until after about 15 minutes. Suddenly there was NO nuetral or reverse, although the sound of the engine and gear changed as typical. I was in forward in all positions. The smoke from the oil filler cap got worse than usual (has been smoking since getting it "unseized"). The smoke from the oil filler cap seams greater when above idle. Engine temp gauge read 140+ degrees while running in gear. I shut the engine down to cool it off and investigate.

To change the oil I inserted the drill-pump type oil remover, put the small O.D. plastic tube down the dip stick tube and couldn't get a flow. I pulled the tube out and it was melted!! Waited a bit, cut a clean tip on the tube and tried to insert, but the dip stick tube was obstructed with the melted plastic.

Summary: Despite the engine appearing to be running at 140, the reverse gear end of the engine was HOT. I estimate it would take 200 degrees PLUS to melt that tube. Turned the key to power the gauges and the temp read just under 150, despite the reverse gear area, by the dip stick, being much hotter.

Scanned reverse gear overheat and found no threads. How could the reverse gear heat up so much? Forward to neutral to Reverse was fine until this condition occurred. I apparently have good water flow intake and from the exhaust, and I'm pretty sure there's no water circuit in the reverse gear.
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  #2   IP: 173.166.26.241
Old 10-10-2010, 05:26 PM
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hanleyclifford hanleyclifford is offline
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It is possible the reverse band is partially engaged all the time causing it to heat up. The engine may indeed be running at 140. There is no coolant loop near the gearcase. Look inside the gearcase and see if the band is loose over the drum.
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  #3   IP: 68.104.86.117
Old 10-10-2010, 09:16 PM
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Another thought...

Are you sure you have enough oil in the engine?
If not, it could explain the heating up at the rear of the engine/reverse gear.
Normally, it gets pretty hot back there anyway. Even with fresh oil.
If you are low or out of oil, that reverse gear would suffer first.

That 'smoking out the oil fill cap' comment concerns me too.

Just thinking out loud for you...
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Last edited by roadnsky; 10-11-2010 at 12:45 PM.
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  #4   IP: 70.160.79.223
Old 10-11-2010, 11:49 AM
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NorfolkRagbagger NorfolkRagbagger is offline
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Your input

Thanks to both of you for your input. I haven't had a chance to check the reverse gear adjustment, it was fine previously and for about 15 minutes before overheating - shifting was normal. "Stuck in forward" happened quickly, but a serious indicator that that's where the problem is. It wasn't the problem , it's apparent that that was the symptom. Oil level was fine but very slightly low before starting, I added 1/2 quart before starting.
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  #5   IP: 173.166.26.241
Old 10-11-2010, 03:02 PM
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You mentioned that this engine had been frozen. Just to be certain I suggest that you check the crank end pilot bearing. When you take the gearcase cover off check for wobble of the assembly.
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  #6   IP: 24.136.77.31
Old 10-13-2010, 09:20 AM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is offline
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Exclamation Too hot?

Ragbagger, the oil definately sounds like it is running to hot. It is normal for the oil temps to be higher than the coolant but you shouldn't be melting plastic in the hole! A lot of the heat in the oil could be from the additional power required to run the engine due to internal friction from being "frozen" tight a while ago. AND it could be that the band is a ~~bit~~ tight and as the unit warms it gets a bit tighter. I would check out the band and maybe even loosen it a bit.
As to the smoke ~blow-by~ coming out of the cap it should beging to disapate after a bit as the rings re-seat themselves. Rings that have been set then froze and knocked loose will take quite a while to re-seat unlike new rings!!! I suggest a PCV be installed as it will help to keep the crankcase clean and ventilated.
Are you using a thermastat? If not try closing the bypass valve (or pinch the hose closed) and see if the oil cools down a bit. It could be that the water isn't flowing well through the block so a good deal of the heat is actually being absorbed by the oil.

Dave Neptune
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