First Step to start working guide?

[sailingLife]

Boat : 1978 Columbia 8.3 A4

I bought this boat that probably hasn't been started in 3+ years. I am going to buy the manual and the timing key or hand crank if in stock after I post this, may wait a few days to see if I should buy other things.

My plan is to take the timing key/hand crank and see if it will even rotate first. If it rotates I am off to a good start.

What are things I should do to just see if it will start?

If I can make it start, I plan on dumping money into all the upgrades, but I want to SEE if it will start first.

The previous owner also dumped a can of some type of motor oil and it spilled all over the bilge which I did clean up.
Engine looks like.
Wiring is... a mess.

I would love to make this as simple as possible, think old school 67 cars that just had the wiring for it to run etc. Bare basics. I plan on keeping the house bank totally separate from the engine besides the wire I would need to charge all the batteries from the alternator.

Also, based on the year of the boat, anyone know if its early or late model?
Anyway for me to be able to tell just by looking at it?

[Antibes]

Should be a late model.

As long as she was put away without issues it will probably be easier to get her going than you expect.

Plan on clean fuel.

Wiring messes can be tackled as you go.

[sailingLife]

Should be a late model.

As long as she was put away without issues it will probably be easier to get her going than you expect.

Plan on clean fuel.

Wiring messes can be tackled as you go.

I don't think it was. I am going to assume it wasn't.
For the wiring, that is what I plan on doing.

[roadnsky]

I bought this boat that probably hasn't been started in 3+ years.

What are things I should do to just see if it will start?

HERE is a read for you about things to do for a long dormant A4

Also, based on the year of the boat, anyone know if its early or late model?
Anyway for me to be able to tell just by looking at it?

HERE will help you determine Early or Late model.

[sailingLife]

HERE is a read for you about things to do for a long dormant A4



HERE will help you determine Early or Late model.

Thank you very much.
I just bought the timing socket and manual as well. Didn't want to wait.

[Al Schober]

Compression, spark, fuel - that's all you need.
Compression first - borrow a 12V battery and get yourself a remote start button from your auto parts store (handy to have). Remove the spark plugs, connect the battery and the start button, and see what happens. It will turn or not. If it turns, hold your thumb over each of the spark plug holes - if you have compression on that cylinder, it will lift your thumb. Let us know what happens.
Also get a can of starting ether. This will substitute for fuel until you get spark. You'll need to put the plugs back in and temporarily connect 12V to the coil + post. Give it a shot of ether then hit the starter. If the engine roars for a few seconds you have spark. Don't leave the battery connected to the coil - you could cook the coil.

[sailingLife]

Compression, spark, fuel - that's all you need.
Compression first - borrow a 12V battery and get yourself a remote start button from your auto parts store (handy to have). Remove the spark plugs, connect the battery and the start button, and see what happens. It will turn or not. If it turns, hold your thumb over each of the spark plug holes - if you have compression on that cylinder, it will lift your thumb. Let us know what happens.
Also get a can of starting ether. This will substitute for fuel until you get spark. You'll need to put the plugs back in and temporarily connect 12V to the coil + post. Give it a shot of ether then hit the starter. If the engine roars for a few seconds you have spark. Don't leave the battery connected to the coil - you could cook the coil.

So for the start button test. Connect battery to engine, start button to battery positive and also to the starter correct?

[Al Schober]

Yes, the remote starter goes between the big lug on the solenoid (where the battery attaches) and the small lug that would go to the starter switch. Pushing the button causes the solenoid to close and send battery current to the starter.
edit: You can do the same thing by shorting the two lugs with a screwdriver, but that causes sparks and gets kinda dramatic.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Do you know the boat's history?
If the boat (engine) has been in an area where there are freezing cold temperatures in the winter it would be a good idea to do pressure test of the cooling system some time soon to be sure there are no freeze cracks in the block cooling system. It would be a bummer to do a lot of work + expense then find the block was no good because of freeze damage due to improper or no winterization.

ex TRUE GRIT

[sailingLife]

Yes, the remote starter goes between the big lug on the solenoid (where the battery attaches) and the small lug that would go to the starter switch. Pushing the button causes the solenoid to close and send battery current to the starter.
edit: You can do the same thing by shorting the two lugs with a screwdriver, but that causes sparks and gets kinda dramatic.

Awesome thank you.

Do you know the boat's history?
If the boat (engine) has been in an area where there are freezing cold temperatures in the winter it would be a good idea to do pressure test of the cooling system some time soon to be sure there are no freeze cracks in the block cooling system. It would be a bummer to do a lot of work + expense then find the block was no good because of freeze damage due to improper or no winterization.

I don't but I do know it has been in Florida for the last 3 years and probably longer than that.

[sailingLife]

I am hoping I do not have to start a new thread.

I was only able to rotate the engine about an inch before it was not able to rotate anymore.

I am going to consider it a win since it has sat for a long time, but I probably will have to tear it down a lot.

I have the manual, and I will be reading through it tonight and tomorrow but I think the Overhaul section will be my starting point on a lot of it.

[Surcouf]

I was only able to rotate the engine about an inch before it was not able to rotate anymore.
.

So clearly that is the key issue to be addressed first.
before you start removing the head, you may want to:
-- spray very generously MMO oil in all cylinders (or your favorite rust-breaking mix, some use a mix of Kroll oil / ATF etc..), trying to hit both cylinders and valves seats, and let it seat several days. You may have surface corrosion on some cylinders that need some convincing
-- split the coupling and try rotate engine, just in case the issue is on the shaft side

Be patient