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Old 07-07-2011, 12:53 PM
keithems keithems is offline
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Question thread repair

can anyone tell me how best to repair stripped threads on the top of a head stud? [not on the channel inside the block]

i've now replaced the head, but a number of problems remain.....

first.....i have one center stud [2nd one from flywheel end] where i cannot tighten the nut all the way down -- it slips; i must have stripped the threads on that stud ....

i have tried redoing the threads with a 3/8 24 die, but the nut still slips

i have tried removing the stud with the snap on stud remover mmi sent me, but the remover slips and the stud does not move.

i've tried running a 5/16 die on the stud, but it will not fit.

i've been very careful not to break the stud, and i do NOT want to remove the head again.

i've thought of jb welding a larger "pipe" [7/16 id or larger] to the stud head and then putting a nut on that

so..what do you suggest? do they make any kind of kit or something to put new threads on a stud with defective threads?

there are other issues as well, but i have a few things i want to try before i bother anyone else with them

thank you all for your help, as always
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Old 07-07-2011, 01:09 PM
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Remove the stud, throw it away and buy a new one from Moyer.
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Old 07-07-2011, 01:12 PM
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If your stud remover is slipping, I would soak the stud where it goes into the block with Kroil and keep trying. Also make sure you really crank down on that collet so that it really tightly grips the stud. Of course, if the threads are really well and stripped, it won't grip as well.

Hate to say it, but you might have to pull the head back off to get that stud out. If you can't get the SnapOn stud puller to get it out, I would yank the head and them grip it with a big honkin' pair of ViseGrips cranked good and tight and work at it with Kroil and heat.

Any way you do it, it sounds like that stud is shot, and needs to be replaced.
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Old 07-07-2011, 01:43 PM
keithems keithems is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILikeRust View Post
Remove the stud, throw it away and buy a new one from Moyer.
i have a new one--looking at it as we speak--now if only i could get the old one out without removing the head...
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Old 07-07-2011, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILikeRust View Post
If your stud remover is slipping, I would soak the stud where it goes into the block with Kroil and keep trying. Also make sure you really crank down on that collet so that it really tightly grips the stud. Of course, if the threads are really well and stripped, it won't grip as well.

Hate to say it, but you might have to pull the head back off to get that stud out. If you can't get the SnapOn stud puller to get it out, I would yank the head and them grip it with a big honkin' pair of ViseGrips cranked good and tight and work at it with Kroil and heat.

Any way you do it, it sounds like that stud is shot, and needs to be replaced.
the stud's ok -- too strong and well seated, if anything -- and i have cranked down on it, but the last thing i want to do is break it....

it's just the threads that are shot -- isn't there something like a helicoil that could go over them, so i can get the nut on without slipping? or a way to grind new ones on the stud?

thx -- k
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Old 07-07-2011, 01:52 PM
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Can I ask why the aversion to just pulling the head back off?

Seems to me that will greatly facilitate getting that defective stud out.

And it seems to me you really do need to get that defective stud out, rather than trying to graft something on to it.
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Old 07-07-2011, 02:36 PM
keithems keithems is offline
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pulling the head is at least a few hours, plus who knows what else i'll screw up?

everything is on as should be right now, except for that stud

however, its location does not seem that critical -- i've already run the engine without it

plus i cannot believe i am the only person ever who had to repair the threads on a perfectly good stud.....

once the season is over, i'll pull the head if necessary -- the only reason i'd pull it now is another story....

briefly, the head did not have to be machined at all, and the head guy told me to only use one gasket. however, per don's recommendation. i used 2, and now i think i do have significantly lower compression than before.....

but that's another story -- i'd prefer to solve one problem at a time, and i can always pull the head if no other approach works and that stud is really crucial

thx again

k
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Old 07-07-2011, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithems View Post
pulling the head is at least a few hours, plus who knows what else i'll screw up?

everything is on as should be right now, except for that stud

however, its location does not seem that critical -- i've already run the engine without it

plus i cannot believe i am the only person ever who had to repair the threads on a perfectly good stud.....

once the season is over, i'll pull the head if necessary -- the only reason i'd pull it now is another story....

briefly, the head did not have to be machined at all, and the head guy told me to only use one gasket. however, per don's recommendation. i used 2, and now i think i do have significantly lower compression than before.....

but that's another story -- i'd prefer to solve one problem at a time, and i can always pull the head if no other approach works and that stud is really crucial

thx again

k

How about...you are not getting enough compression because without that stud and nut the head is not properly seated (and will not be) until you sort it out.

Just saying...
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Old 07-07-2011, 09:14 PM
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K,
You've got to replace that stud. If you can get it out without removing the head, fine. You're not going to save it, so visegrips are fine. If the top end gets completely mangulated, then the head has to come off. Do it right, do it once.

Al Schober
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Old 07-08-2011, 01:05 AM
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The Snap on Stud puller is the best there is! Soak the stud with Kroil for a day or two, tighten up the puller real good and go for it. The stud will either come out or break off. If it comes out, put the new one in. If it breaks off then your have you answer: Take the head off.

Mark
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Old 07-08-2011, 02:07 AM
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The moyer stud remover is good if you have to save the stud and threads.

Since you have a replacement stud, AutoZone has a loner stud remover that will strip the crap out of your threads but will get it out if you finesse it right.

Try turning it in before turning it out. Rock it back and forth. Tighten, loosen, tighten loosen. . .etc. It'll come out.

Try double nutting it.

Also, if you are running it without the nut on that stud I'd say do it again til the engine heats up real hot and then try to remove that stud. With a center stud it's hard to heat the lower threads with a torch. Running the engine til hot will serve that purpose. Maybe even close the cooling water for a bit just before engine shut down to get it really hot.
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Last edited by jpian0923; 07-08-2011 at 02:10 AM.
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Old 07-08-2011, 11:18 AM
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Use a propane torch to heat the head around the area of the stud if you are able - get it hot!

Then slowly try and unscrew the stud with a stud puller.

Cheers!
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Old 07-08-2011, 11:24 AM
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I doubt you'd be able to get the block "red hot" around that stud with a propane torch.

Oxy/acetylene, yes, no doubt. Maybe MAPP - particularly if you pointed two of them at it for long enough.

But not your standard Bernz-o-Matic. They just don't get hot enough, particularly for such a big hunk of cast iron.
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Old 07-09-2011, 12:01 AM
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Don't be afraid to really crank on that stud remover. With all your might and a long wrench.
Been there

Jean-Luc
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Old 07-09-2011, 09:34 AM
keithems keithems is offline
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Question ok -- off with her head!

but not cuz of the stud....

unfortunately, after i had finished putting the head back on [and lots of other things], my a4 had developed a new, intermittent rattling/clicking sound. [she had always had a "tick" but i was told that was normal -- probably from the cam on the mechanical fuel pump] -- but this noise was new, plus she had to be fully warmed up to go into gear without stalling.

so...to correct this, i decided to start by making sure the valve clearances were all correct. in doing that, i found 2 valves that were almost impossible to get right -- one has the keepers below the retaining washer; the other has the valve stem completely flattened. [pix will be posted when available.]

so, i assume both will have to come out, and i'll be starting on head removal to do it.

thus, my next question:

does anyone know...

if i put in a new valve, must i also grind the seat or replace it? if so, can this be done with the engine in the boat? or must the engine block be removed and taken to a machine shop?

i'll be transferring this story now to another thread about removing / replacing valves....stay so tuned....
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Last edited by keithems; 07-09-2011 at 09:58 AM.
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