Tweet
Does anyone know which wire goes to which terminal on the old 3 wire design?
Everything ran fine on basically the first attempt this spring (after carb rebuild, RWC pump rebuild, cleaning out the thermostat housing and mostly clogged up bypass line, replaced rusted/ stuck choke cable, plugs, wires, Delco distributer cap and rotor). Decide to pressure flush and acid wash, the original galvanized 1/8"NPT 6" nipple broke off from the aft drain plug, which led to distributer removal, tapping and replacing with a brass nipple... Everything back together and ended up pinching the ignitor wire when replacing the rotor cap when setting the timing. After a fun filled afternoon with no spark or voltage at the coil, looks like 2 of the wires on the oil pressure safety switch had loose corroded connections, decided to cut, strip and replace all of the connectors (forgot to label them as it was getting dark and just wanted to get her running again).
There are lots of posts on eliminating the wire to the 'R' terminal on the starter and plenty of schematics with the two terminal switch. After a little cleaning it looks like terminals 1 and 3 are normally closed (continuity test between the two). So I would think that the starter would go to one of those and fuel pump (electric) to the other and coil to no. 2? It is a V drive (mounted backwards) and mounted up near the flywheel. So I can either attach a meter to verify what terminals do what on cranking (with RW through hull closed) and see what terminals do what with oil pressure or just replace it with the two wire switch (not getting consistent readings on the terminals now). Eliminate the R wire to the starter, and maybe move it to where the mechanical fuel pump was, move the electric fuel pump to that plate, add an inline filter (have the water separator type before the fuel pump, both mounted on the bulkhead under the galley sink locker), and plug the current oil port or leave the oil pressure sender there. This would just make things more accessible and hopefully a cleaner install. Would also add a switch to bypass the oil safety sw, or maybe 2, one momentary for priming and one manual for emergency run if necessary.
The PO always used a starting spray on each start up (cold), hence the carb work, choke cable, etc, I want to have her start up and run with out any assistance. So I am picking up a new pertonix ignitor (pinched insulation on the positive lead, which grounded to the plate and blew a 30A fuse which I now know where that is) and headed over to install that as soon as this rain passes. I insulated the insulation with heat shrink, no blown fuse and 12.4V at the coil (no shore power on a mooring), still no spark. Not from the secondary of the coil lead to the block and obviously not from any of the other leads. The primary of the coil is still 4.0 ohms when disconnected. I currently have the fuel pump jumped to the ignition switch and debating a replacement coil along with the above changes. Any suggestions on the above 'enhancements' or other ideas? It would be great to confirm what wire goes where on that switch or a part number for a replacement switch I can pick up locally to get this taken care of this weekend would be great! First year with this boat and just want reliable auxiliary power for when the wind dies down and navigating a busy channel/ mooring. Thanks.
Everything ran fine on basically the first attempt this spring (after carb rebuild, RWC pump rebuild, cleaning out the thermostat housing and mostly clogged up bypass line, replaced rusted/ stuck choke cable, plugs, wires, Delco distributer cap and rotor). Decide to pressure flush and acid wash, the original galvanized 1/8"NPT 6" nipple broke off from the aft drain plug, which led to distributer removal, tapping and replacing with a brass nipple... Everything back together and ended up pinching the ignitor wire when replacing the rotor cap when setting the timing. After a fun filled afternoon with no spark or voltage at the coil, looks like 2 of the wires on the oil pressure safety switch had loose corroded connections, decided to cut, strip and replace all of the connectors (forgot to label them as it was getting dark and just wanted to get her running again).
There are lots of posts on eliminating the wire to the 'R' terminal on the starter and plenty of schematics with the two terminal switch. After a little cleaning it looks like terminals 1 and 3 are normally closed (continuity test between the two). So I would think that the starter would go to one of those and fuel pump (electric) to the other and coil to no. 2? It is a V drive (mounted backwards) and mounted up near the flywheel. So I can either attach a meter to verify what terminals do what on cranking (with RW through hull closed) and see what terminals do what with oil pressure or just replace it with the two wire switch (not getting consistent readings on the terminals now). Eliminate the R wire to the starter, and maybe move it to where the mechanical fuel pump was, move the electric fuel pump to that plate, add an inline filter (have the water separator type before the fuel pump, both mounted on the bulkhead under the galley sink locker), and plug the current oil port or leave the oil pressure sender there. This would just make things more accessible and hopefully a cleaner install. Would also add a switch to bypass the oil safety sw, or maybe 2, one momentary for priming and one manual for emergency run if necessary.
The PO always used a starting spray on each start up (cold), hence the carb work, choke cable, etc, I want to have her start up and run with out any assistance. So I am picking up a new pertonix ignitor (pinched insulation on the positive lead, which grounded to the plate and blew a 30A fuse which I now know where that is) and headed over to install that as soon as this rain passes. I insulated the insulation with heat shrink, no blown fuse and 12.4V at the coil (no shore power on a mooring), still no spark. Not from the secondary of the coil lead to the block and obviously not from any of the other leads. The primary of the coil is still 4.0 ohms when disconnected. I currently have the fuel pump jumped to the ignition switch and debating a replacement coil along with the above changes. Any suggestions on the above 'enhancements' or other ideas? It would be great to confirm what wire goes where on that switch or a part number for a replacement switch I can pick up locally to get this taken care of this weekend would be great! First year with this boat and just want reliable auxiliary power for when the wind dies down and navigating a busy channel/ mooring. Thanks.
Attached Files
Comment