New tool available

[ndutton]

What's the usual go-to tool when it comes to separating a rusty shaft coupler from the engine's output flange? A screw driver and a hammer, right?

Instead, consider a coupling splitter.
Its charm is it avoids side loads on the drive line and NO HAMMERING! It's available to any Afourian for the cost of round trip shipping (compare to the cost of replacing a damaged rear seal or worse). The pictures show it in use on a rusted Yanmar in preparation for an engine swap. After the coupler bolts were removed it took about one minute start to finish.

[Al Schober]

Now we just need a clever tool like that for getting the coupling off the shaft!

[ndutton]

Now we just need a clever tool like that for getting the coupling off the shaft!

Step 1: Cut shaft close to coupler with Sawzall
Step 2: Press shaft out of coupler, discard coupler
Step 3: Measure stump length, add dimension to shaft remnant
Step 4: Purchase new shaft
Step 5: Purchase MMI split coupler

[zellerj]

tool for head

HI Neal,

Would this same type of tool, only larger, work for removing the head? Re: another thread on the trials and tribulations of the A4 head removal.

[ndutton]

Jim, I was thinking exactly that. It would be easy to accomplish with modified Pony clamps but the difference is the coupler splitter only has to break the rust bond the slightest amount. A head wedge clamp, if the studs are still in place, needs to elevate the head much farther. Also, hammering wedges into the block/head seam doesn't risk seals and bearings like we have with the output coupling.

But as you can tell, the thought crossed my demented mind.

[edwardc]

Instead, consider a coupling splitter.

Sheer genius!

[Hymodyne]

Step 1: Cut shaft close to coupler with Sawzall
Step 2: Press shaft out of coupler, discard coupler
Step 3: Measure stump length, add dimension to shaft remnant
Step 4: Purchase new shaft
Step 5: Purchase MMI split coupler

Trying to resolve a stuck shaft in coupler situation now. A4 is in Pearson Triton. Stuck propeller shaft was discovered while searching for the cause of an oil leak after replacement of seal in July.

Got great assistance with questions about beveled washer placement from technical folks with Moyer. very helpful and supportive.

I have a steel tube and flat washer over the shaft, I tighten the shaft hut against the washer and I tried to extract the shaft like this. No good. I tried to saturate it with pblaster through the setscrew opening and dislodge it with a BFH to the side of the coupling. Tried a little heat, but chickened out; people kept asking to be informed when I was planning to use my mini torch so close to my fuel tank so they could be elsewhere. going to try longer bolts, introduce a socket, smaller in diameter than the shaft, expand the gap between flanges until the socket can be placed on the shaft, and long bolts tightened; gradually.

Other ideas? besides any involving a sawzall, hacksaw, etc. The shaft has to come out so I can finish some rudder repairs, I just don't want to scrap it if its not pitted.

James

[ndutton]

Aw shucks Ed.
It's one of those things you'll probably only need once in a lifetime so I figgered - if it worked - I'd make it available to forum members on loan, anything to get 'em to put the hammer down.

edit:
James, the socket press technique has been known to work - - - and has been known to destroy output couplings (Shawn??). Pick your battles my friend.