Carburetor Bleed Valve

[a.flood]

For the Winter and on some other occasions, I've had to remove the bleed stopper screw from the bottom of my carburetor. This is useful to access the quality of the gas coming to the carb.

This on my boat is very hard to get at and gas can spill and some awful language from my mouth too.

So a little kit would be nice with a simple valve that replaced the plug and possibly a small tube that could be either attached or left on this during operation.

Aongus
Sabre 28

[ArtJ]

This is very hard to reach the main passage plug on the Tartan34c when removing the
main passage plug to flush carb.There is no room for a container to hold
the ejected gas - allowing 1 or more pints of gas to be flooding into
the bilge under the engine -
very dangerous.
What if a barbed hose fitting was available that mates with the special main passage threads?
Then a 2 foot long hose could be attached allowing
the ejected gas to be collected in a convenient placed container. Possibly
even a in line shutoff valve rather than the easily lost plug?

[joe_db]

I must be doing winterizing wrong, I just run the engine until it quits instead of draining the carb.
A valve would be nice, but there is a very obvious very dangerous point of failure involved If I ever did this, I would cap off the valve when not in use so draining gas involved removing a cap and then opening a valve.

[ArtJ]

This is useful for more than winterizing for example,flushing a clogged float valve.
Not all engines have access under neath to collect spilled gas from a
routine or urgent flush when carb quits while underway. My initial thought was just for a easily installed threaded hose barb for use when necessary as a temporary replacement,however, this allows
what ever gas is in carb to spill into bilge since no access to place
a container,. In any case a threaded hose barb that fits in main passage is a big plus a safely installed valve with a plug is a plus.
Are small male threaded adapters available for this unusual threaded passage?

Best Art

[ndutton]

Art, how often do you have to drain the carb? I'm not a winterizing guy but if I were I'd probably take the carb home for the winter. As for other reasons, if you're experiencing frequent debris problems, where is the debris coming from? If you're experiencing other carburetor related shutdowns, how often do you rebuild? Do you rebuild on a schedule or wait for problems?

I understand your access difficulties but wonder why there's such a frequent need. I've never removed my passage plug except as part of a rebuild.

[Bratina]

Interesting. I'm in Southern Ontario so winterize each fall. Engine is usually laid up until April. I don't attempt to run the carb dry, I don't bleed it, and don't remove it for the winter. My engine starts 2nd or 3rd attempt each spring.

I have clean ethanol-free fuel, annually change both a fuel-water separator and a 10 micron inline filter that sits between the (electronic) fuel pump and the carb.

Others no-doubt will disagree, but I don't see an advantage to bleeding or removal of the carb. Worst case is a hard-start in the spring, in which case I can easily remove, clean and replace the carb (but this hasn't happened yet).