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Old 08-19-2012, 08:55 AM
cygnus x1 cygnus x1 is offline
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Head removal

I've tried to remove the head, but so far no luck? All the nuts are removed. I've tried to get it loose with pb blaster by soaking the studs every few hrs for two days. Taping with hammer. Any tricks that I should try? I should say that the engine is out of boat, on the garage floor, every thing else removed. I'm afraid of trying to pry to much, so I don't damage it?
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Old 08-19-2012, 09:04 AM
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You will find it much easier if you remove all the studs first. That, of course, requires a stud puller, which our benevolent host sells.

It is, indeed, possible to pull the head with the studs in place, but it's a lot easier with them out.
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Old 08-19-2012, 10:34 AM
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Lightbulb Wedge it

Jeff, what Bill says holds very true. You can use a thick putty knife and wedge it inbetween the head and gasket and tap it in lightly, work your way aroung the head gently and this will often get it loose enough to remove over the studs.
Is the head loose and stuck on the studs or still "stuck" to the head?

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Old 08-19-2012, 12:29 PM
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Put the plugs back in and try to start it. And if that doesn't work, add the carburator!!
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Old 08-20-2012, 08:13 AM
cygnus x1 cygnus x1 is offline
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So far no luck. I have soaked the studs and they all seem to be loose, as the PB blaster will flow down each one. I can't seem to get a scraper blade started anywhere as the is just no room to get it started. I may try putting the plugs and starter back in to see if I can the head/gaskets to lift a little, so I have someplace to start.
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Old 08-20-2012, 10:21 AM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is online now
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Lightbulb Look well

Jeff, look closely at the head/block interface and you should be able to see the "headgasket", just insert the sharp edge directly into the gaske and tap lightly. You can work your way around the head this way. If you can install the plugs and just crank the engine it may pop loose. However I have never had the putty knnife not work.

Good luck

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Old 08-20-2012, 12:31 PM
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one more thought!

Jeff...as Dave said be sure to stick the knife in the gasket..this will minimize (hopefully prevent) any damage of the putty knife gouging the block or head.

If you cannot get the head off with the studs intact, sometimes you can get the studs out with the 'double nut' trick, but a stud puller would be the best bet!

Keep at it & take some pics..we love pics of engines in pieces!!
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Old 08-20-2012, 01:10 PM
cygnus x1 cygnus x1 is offline
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I don't think I have room for a double nut, unless I could purchase a few "thin" nuts. Can the stud puller be purchased at any auto supply? Or would a good vise grip do the job? Since I have a rebuilt short block coming, I can sacrifice the studs, so grind two flat spots, etc?
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Old 08-20-2012, 02:05 PM
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Yeah, sorry..I was not thinking real clearly and you would probably need to pull the head off first, then get the studs out...I don't know how much the difficulty level is increased removing the head with studs in place vs. studs removed.

I guess the only place that would work OK is if you already have a repair stud in the block, since the threads are plenty long on those.
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Old 08-20-2012, 02:19 PM
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Jeff,
I'll second (or third) the suggestion to remove the studs. The stud tool is expensive, but well worth the cost. Keep in mind that the studs you remove and have on the bench aren't holding the head. You'll probably find that one or more of the studs are probably corroded into the head, often by the thermostat. The stud tool will develop enough torque to twist off the stud - those that twist off will have to be drilled far enough to loosen the corrosion.
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Old 08-21-2012, 06:45 PM
cygnus x1 cygnus x1 is offline
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Success! After removing the studs (all but four came out), it only took 10 minutes to get the head off. I can't imagine trying to remove it with the studs on. Thanks everyone for all the incouragement. After seeing the carbon build up and the condition of the valves, it's a wonder it ran at all. Any clues on how to clean a really nasty thermostat? So far it's really stuck in the housing. Hate to distroy it by taking it out.
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Old 08-21-2012, 07:36 PM
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Glad you were successful getting the head off!
Carbon on valves? Let me guess: intake valves and you've been using Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel. I had some intake valves come out looking like tulips about to bloom - no more MMO in the fuel for me.
Thermostat? Simmer it in vinegar - should clean up.
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Old 09-21-2012, 12:40 PM
barrett bonden barrett bonden is offline
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my own experience with the head; much harder than I had thought !

Working on a practice motor ( had been “junked”; I bought it for $100 ) in the garage. With the studs in all my efforts with shims (putty knives, dull old kitchen table knives, screwdrivers) came to naught. This was during the better part of a week.
I gave in and bought a $10 stud puller, not the one sold on the site. It has lobes, rather than threads, and I saw it would crush the threads on the studs. ( It worked fine on the thermostat studs, as they have exposed non threaded area to grip) .
I then did it right and bought the one MM carries. All but one stud came out easily, and here’s my real point: one broke, and with this one stud in (broken ¼ inch below the top of the head) on the corner I still cant get the damn head off easily. Been shimming it for 20 minutes and shaking the engine on it’s side and using much too much force on the screwdriver and I’ve moved the head up at most ¼ inch.
Other things to note; I had to use a breaker bar to tighten the top of the good stud puller to get it to work. Dont worry about bearing down on it.
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Old 09-21-2012, 12:45 PM
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If there is only one stud left in place, can't you rotate the entire head to "unscrew" it from the block?
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Old 09-21-2012, 01:35 PM
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Ignorance is bliss

After just having removed the head on my A4 in the boat with the engine 5" under the cockpit sole I have to say I thought the correct thing was to just lift the head up over the studs. After getting it to start lifting I went around, mostly fore and aft, with wooden wedges until the thing was above the studs. You have to come up evenly or you will bind on one side or the other. Lifting the head out of the engine "compartment" with only one hand was a bit harder.
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loki9 View Post
If there is only one stud left in place, can't you rotate the entire head to "unscrew" it from the block?
That is exactly what I did when I got all but one last stud out. You do have to be very careful, though, because at least one or two of your valves will be open, sticking up - so you still need to get the head up at least bit to clear the protruding valve head before swinging it around.

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