#1
IP: 72.224.197.223
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Irrational response to cooling jacket personal history
0.187" 316L Stainless Steel. I can't recommend that anyone do this at home, SST is a PITA to work with, let alone drill and tap. For the $60, buy it from MMI. I wouldn't make a second one.... but I'm pleased with how it came out. Final fitment will determine orientation and drilling of cap nuts on the back to direct flow down and back, down, and down and forward. The clearance (with elbows) around the alternator belt is tight, but no tighter than the original.
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Jeff S/V Bunny Planet 1971 Bristol 29 #169 |
#2
IP: 71.118.13.238
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Jeff, I have a machine shop and lots of carbide tooling and I would buy one before making in "steel" let alone the stainless!!!
Nice job by the way. Me thinks the 3 ports are a bit of overkill though, but nicely done ole boy. Dave Neptune |
#3
IP: 107.0.6.242
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Nice job. Not overkill - direct all ports downward except slightly forward for the front port and slightly aft for the rear port.
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#4
IP: 72.224.197.223
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Thanks Dave - Yes, I totally underestimated the toughness of the SST. I recently cleaned up a small bench mill and wanted a project. The milling was OK (small bites), but the drilling was painful. And I tapped by hand....
Hanley - exactly! I took your plumbing and made it a little more compact. I think others have also used the various clean-out ports, but I wanted something more finished.
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Jeff S/V Bunny Planet 1971 Bristol 29 #169 |
#5
IP: 206.125.176.3
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Ooooo...shiny..
My problem is not with the side plate itself..mine is holding up fine..but the block surface area for the sideplate is wearing away...I have hopefully halted this with FWC, and I hope I won't have to remove the plate ever again.
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#6
IP: 70.27.63.64
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I want to do an early model one - only I would use 303 or 304 SS...in this location I don't think it would matter too much and would be a lot easier to machine.
Nice work BTW! |
#7
IP: 71.59.69.172
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What is the difference between 316 and 316L?
Very nice work!
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Bill 1974, Tartan 30, Unchained Melody www.CanvasWorks.US |
#8
IP: 107.215.189.93
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Could someone explain what the heck this is.
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#9
IP: 70.192.236.61
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The difference between 316 and 316L is the amount of carbon that is in the material. 316 has .08 Max carbon content while 316L has a .03 Max carbon content. The primary reasons for using an L grade of stainless steel is that this will reduce the tendency of the material to crack after welding, and reduces the tendency to corrode at the weld boundaries.
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@(^.^)@ Ed 1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita" with rebuilt Atomic-4 |
#10
IP: 76.179.157.47
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It's the water jacket side plate for an engine I'm 'sort-of' rebuilding to replace an engine that had plagued me with overheating issues.
The internal passages of the old block were fully obstructed, and the water jacket side plate and casting wall were a mess of rust. I loathed it. I hated looking at it. It mocked me. I began to have nightmares. Voices spoke to me in rusty tones.... I snapped. Never again, I said. FWC and stainless for breakfast from now on. I did say it was an irrational response. MMI has a really nice one in SST for $60. Get that one - this was fun but a PITA!
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Jeff S/V Bunny Planet 1971 Bristol 29 #169 |
#11
IP: 134.223.230.155
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My God...that's like, art or something.
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#12
IP: 107.21.176.253
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Quote:
I asked the same question of a salesman from a SS supplier 're. Ss tubing for bimini frames and couldn't get an answer.
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Bill 1974, Tartan 30, Unchained Melody www.CanvasWorks.US |
#13
IP: 76.179.157.47
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Finished.
I'm a day away from trying it on the bench!
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Jeff S/V Bunny Planet 1971 Bristol 29 #169 |
#14
IP: 76.179.157.47
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Full plumbing....
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Jeff S/V Bunny Planet 1971 Bristol 29 #169 |
#15
IP: 76.179.157.47
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And alternator....
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Jeff S/V Bunny Planet 1971 Bristol 29 #169 |
#16
IP: 76.179.157.47
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Zinc placement.
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Jeff S/V Bunny Planet 1971 Bristol 29 #169 |
#17
IP: 54.237.218.55
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That is just too much! Stop, please stop. Your going to have us all thinking our "normal" engines are ugly and worthless.
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Bill 1974, Tartan 30, Unchained Melody www.CanvasWorks.US |
#18
IP: 107.0.6.242
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Jeff - That triple fitting at pump output is the piece de resistance! I recognize it from the construction air tool world. Outstanding plumbing! Great workmanship overall!
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#19
IP: 198.11.8.218
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Quote:
It's goofy, and massively over-thought, but with the adapter (3/8 NPT to 3x 1/4 NPT) and three 3/8" hoses, I should get about 50% more flow to the water jacket. Each inlet is fitted with the brass cap on the inside, and is drilled to direct flow down and to both corners. I also did a little 'porting' on the MMI pump. I actually found some machining flash on the outlet that was more than deburring... It probably restricted about 25% of the area. I was surprised. Because I'm going FWC, I removed the bypass, and I'm running the normal thermostat. I drilled two 1/8" holes to allow flow during warm up, and then the thermostat will kick in. I also modified the MMI bronze thermostat housing to accept the thermostat without the extra gasket and plate. The bronze MMI thermostat housing is an interesting exercise in design conservatism. It's designed to work with the original double acting thermostat, now very expensive ($163!). In order to make it work with the more common single acting aftermarket thermostat, you need an extra gasket, an adapter plate, and special nuts. By removing some of the inner bypass boss, the thermostat fits normally, which must be the majority of our engines now....
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Jeff S/V Bunny Planet 1971 Bristol 29 #169 |
#20
IP: 107.0.6.242
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"Porting" the Coolant Pump?
Jeff - I think we are going to have a lot of "re-engineering" fun here.
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#21
IP: 76.179.157.47
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I wish I took a picture.... Machining a casting most efficiently involves leaving as much casting in place at net size, and only machining what's necessary. The entry and exit are only tap drilled to finished depth, not thru to the impeller surface. The impeller housing is milled out only to profile. The cast surfaces are rough in between, and in my case had a significant 'burr' where the housing milling didn't quite break thru into the exit port. I smoothed things up. But I was surprised at how rough the internal surfaces in the pump were....
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Jeff S/V Bunny Planet 1971 Bristol 29 #169 |
#22
IP: 207.118.20.35
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Jeff- That is wonderful work! Looks like the most uniformly cooled A4 in history. And the paint job is very nice. Thanks for the pictures.
This is the first time I've noticed a zinc put into the front of the head. What is the advantage of that placement? Or is that done with raw water cooling? On my boat the only zinc in the coolant is on the heat exchanger, and the temperature sensors are on the front of the head. Are you looking to get more corrosion protection than the heat exchanger zinc provides? Maybe the heat exchanger is too insulated from the block, as it's only connected to it with rubber hoses. Where do you put your temperature sensor, then? Just curious. |
#23
IP: 76.179.157.47
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Quote:
The HX and engine aren't connected electrically, so they need independent zinc protection. Also, there's enough dissimilar metal on the engine now to make it worthwhile. MMI puts a zinc in their new blocks. I put the temp sensor on a tee fitting at the entrance to the manifold. It receives water from the t-stat, so I think it's close enough.
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Jeff S/V Bunny Planet 1971 Bristol 29 #169 |
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