Early atomic 4

[Ken Rockwell]

I'm rebuilding an older a4 out of a 64 Pearson (26') and I had a couple of questions. First question is, how do I determine the exact year? I know it's close to the original year but the engine was rebuilt recently... well not recently, but there's very low hours at most. I was wondering if anyone had an original cooling line that goes between the head and manifold? You know the pretty cast iron one, the catalog is a little confusing it shows some ugly radiator hose in the same picture. I figured it would be in the original castings section. If not, has anyone ever tried driving a copper tube through and flaring the ends against the flanges? Does anyone know where to find an alternator that will mount on the head and maybe a little smaller and longer? The alternator on it now is short and fat and is higher than the head. Lastly, does the original distributor that's for sale, have the ignition retard switch on it.

[edwardc]

The casting date of the block can be found on the side, behind the carb.

[Dave Neptune]

Ken,first welcome to the MMI Afourian Forum.

Many parts are available from MMI and a lot of members have a few for sale too.

No retard switch in the Prestolite that I know of.

That alternator and bracket are after market or PO cobbled.

Dave Neptune

[BunnyPlanet169]

Welcome to the forum, Ken.

That's an old engine - notable for the cast valve cover, lack of oil fill, and carburetor - I can't date it from those features, but I'll bet someone here can.

The piece you're asking about is called the 'Crossover Fitting'. MMI has a replacement kit here, but not the original casting. You can find them on ebay from time to time.

http://www.moyermarine.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?preadd=action&key=CSOT_04_73

As to alternator fit, you might try measuring the horizontal distance from the center of the head mounting ears to the bulkhead wall, and then giving Ken at the parts department a call. He will surely walk you through the options!

[lat 64]

I Love (not) the stove bolt for the alt. pivot.

Remember to get an ignition-protected alternator when you replace that unit, that is, a marine alternator. Yes I know it cost more. This is a safety issue. Review all the electrics with that in mind.

No kaboom, no bad days.

Welcome to the forum. Great start.

Russ

[Ken Rockwell]

The number behind the carb is 11-3. the number on the opposite side is 72770.

[Ken Rockwell]

Thanks for the wecomes everyone. I'm going to be honest, I prefer small day sailors with no engines so this engine is pry getting sold or made into a show piece. It's going in a 58 evinrude. I think I can increase torque by shortening the drive shaft and of course dropping the weight by several thousand pounds. So my point of this is the engine will be wide open(ill be able to smell gas) or sold to someone who has an alternator already. I was more looking for original equipment, unless it's six volt. I may just pull it off to one side and mount it to the boat, might even need two.

[joe_db]

I don't think I followed what you are doing with the engine, but to start with try getting a stock alternator bracket:

AFAIK they fit on all engines.

[Ken Rockwell]

sorry, sometimes i don't proofread. I'm selling it but, if I can't, I'm putting it in a motor boat.
My main objective is ensuring that I'm not selling someone a ''bad'' engine. However, I also want to get the best price. So if I can't sell it, for the price I want, then I'm keeping it.
But either way the whole project is for showing off. It's all about how it sounds and looks. That's why I'm trying to use the original mounts casted on the side of the head. And I was wondering where to get an alternator that would fit without changing anything. Or at least utilizing the original mounts and tensioner in some way.
If I sell it, then I probably won't buy an alternator at all.
I know I'm a pain in the arse.
Anyone figure out the year?

[joe_db]

sorry, sometimes i don't proofread. I'm selling it but, if I can't, I'm putting it in a motor boat.
My main objective is ensuring that I'm not selling someone a ''bad'' engine. However, I also want to get the best price. So if I can't sell it, for the price I want, then I'm keeping it.
But either way the whole project is for showing off. It's all about how it sounds and looks. That's why I'm trying to use the original mounts casted on the side of the head. And I was wondering where to get an alternator that would fit without changing anything. Or at least utilizing the original mounts and tensioner in some way.
If I sell it, then I probably won't buy an alternator at all.
I know I'm a pain in the arse.
Anyone figure out the year?

No alternator mounts are cast on any engine - they all use the head bolts. Also note there is exactly zero market for "display" Atomic 4s. Their value is as working engines to move a boat, it isn't like a rare old car

[Ken Rockwell]

If you look at the picture of the head you'll see two lobes sticking out with holes drilled. The original manual shows a photograph of the alternator mounted on those with a bolt.

[ndutton]

I'm going to take a guess that those ears were for a generator rather than an alternator, the reason you're having a hard time finding one to fit. Looks like the engine is a 1964 model year. Here's a picture of an old automotive generator showing the spacing of the mounts.

[Ken Rockwell]

The book says it's an alternator

[Ken Rockwell]

But if they are for a generator would I be able to find a new one like that. A generator would be cool.

[Ken Rockwell]

Yup a generator is the route I'm taking. And I found the year. You guys are a great help.
Next thing is the my rusted ignition retard switch. Anyone got any experience with that? I think buying a new one would be best as long as it has the switch.
Just wondering if it's safe to heat. I don't want to melt a seal or something. I've taken it apart to the spinning flat metal disk on the inside. I plan on heating the switch on the outside But if anyone's tried and failed at this, please stop me.