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#1
IP: 204.157.20.43
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Procedure for acid flushing and pressure flushing
Here is the procedure for acid flushing and pressure flushing as taken from our FAQ and service and overhaul manual. You'll find our flushing kit very helpful in performing this essential maintenance task.
ACID FLUSHING: The following acid flush is most effective when used as a preventative maintenance measure every 3 to 5 years: CAUTION: Be sure to wear proper protective clothing (including eye protection). Always add acid to water when mixing, and if possible, hang a bucket over the exhaust outlet to catch acid solution when discharging from boat. 1) Mix 1/3 gallon of household muriatic acid (30% concentration) into a 5 gallon bucket of water. 2) Draw the entire 5 gallons of acid solution into the engine through an inlet "T" fitting between the raw water through-hull and the inlet to the raw water cooling pump (the same "T" as used for winterizing the engine). For best results, thermostat should be removed and the by-pass hose temporarily clamped off. All the acid solution will then be pumped through the block by running the engine. Stop the engine as soon as the bucket is empty. NOTE: Some of the acid solution will find its way into the exhaust system, which might loosen up any crud that may have built up within the water lift muffler and connecting plumbing. 3) Start the engine after letting the acid sit in the water jackets for about 15 minutes and run it long enough to thoroughly flush out the acid. 4) If it has been possible to retrieve the acid solution from the back of the exhaust system, add approximately 1/2 pound of household baking soda to five gallons of acid solution prior to discarding. PRESSURE FLUSHING (PRELIMINARY STEPS): 1) Remove starter and alternator. 2) Remove the three 1/8" pipe-threaded water jacket drain plugs. Two of these plugs are in the block (one is located at the forward end of the block beside the starter, and the other is located beside the distributor base). The third plug is in the lower rear corner of the manifold. NOTE: If the cooling system has not been serviced in many years, the plugs may have to be drilled out. If, after drilling out the plugs, the threads cannot be cleaned up with a 1/8" pipe tap, the drain hole(s) can be drilled out to 7/16" and threaded using a 1/4" pipe tap. Pipe taps and replacement 1/4" brass pipe plugs are available at most hardware stores. 3) Probe into each drain with a coat-hanger-sized wire to insure that it is open. If the drain on the manifold is clogged, it will be virtually impossible to open it without removing the freeze-out plug nearest the drain and probing the drain from inside the cooling jacket. While the drain in the manifold is not used to inject pressure water, as in the case of the drains in the block, it is still preferable to open the drain if at all possible. FLUSHING THE BLOCK: 1) Install a 1/8" pipe-threaded 6" long brass nipple in one of the drain holes in the block and a 1/8" hex-headed brass pipe plug in the other block drain. 2) On early model engines, use a 1/8" brass 45 degree street-el (provided in kit) to facilitate reaching the drain hole behind the distributor. NOTE 2: On late model engines, the 6" nipple can be left installed in the aft block drain after the flushing operation is complete to facilitate draining the block for winterizing or other servicing (use a 1/8" brass cap to close the end of the nipple). On early model engines, there is insufficient space for the nipple after the alternator is reinstalled; however, the 45 degree elbow can be left in place with a 1/8" hex-headed pipe plug installed to make subsequent draining somewhat easier. NOTE 3: Early model engines have a cast iron crossover tube between the head and manifold which makes it difficult to flush the block and head separately from the manifold. In some cases, this cast crossover tube has been replaced with a rubber hose and 90 degree fittings. If this is the case on your engine, you may be able to install a discharge hose on the fitting on the head to be run overboard. You can then proceed with the following steps as in the case of a late model engine. Steps 3 through 7 apply only to late model engines. 3) Remove the thermostat housing, both fittings, and the thermostat. 4) Install a 3/8" brass street-el in the outlet of the thermostat housing (the side marked "MAN"), and a 3/8" pipe plug in the inlet (the side marked "WP"). 5) Reinstall the thermostat housing, but leave the thermostat out until after flushing is complete. 7) Install bushings on the end of the 6" nipple in the aft block drain as necessary so as to be able to install a swivel type garden hose fitting. It's also very convenient to install a small ball valve before the garden hose fitting so that you can stop/start the pressure from the hose for more aggressive flushing. 8) Flush the block until the effluent from the discharge hose is clear. 9) Move the 6" nipple to the other block drain, and flush that end of the block until the effluent of the discharge hose is clear. FLUSHING THE MANIFOLD: 1) Remove the 1/2" fitting at the rear discharge of the manifold. Inspect and clean the 1/2" pipe thread opening as necessary. 2) Connect a garden hose to the rear outlet of the manifold for overboard discharge. A 1/2" male pipe thread by 3/4" male garden hose fitting is ideal for this purpose. 3) Install a second garden hose fitting to the front (inlet) of the manifold. Connect a garden hose to this fitting, and flush the manifold with as much water pressure as possible. As in the case of the block, it's a good idea to install a ball valve between the garden hose fitting and the manifold to enable you to stop/start the pressure from the hose. 4) When flushing is complete, remove garden hoses and all flushing fittings. Reinstall the thermostat, and reassemble the rest of the cooling system. Best regards, Don |
#2
IP: 64.233.214.66
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Acid Flush using oberforfer?
Hi Don,
Are you aware of any danger of damage to the impeller and/or oberdorfer pump assembly when using it to draw the acid/water mix into the engine block? Over the years I have read many tutorials on how to flush the engine with the muriatic acid mix and many of them recommend bypassing the engine driven water pump and using an external (ie: drill driven pump) because of fear of damage to the pump and or impeller? Has it been your experience that is is safe to use the engine pump itself to draw in the solution? thanks! -todd catalina 30/A4 Atomic |
#3
IP: 38.118.52.41
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Todd,
There is no need to remove the water pump in performing an acid flush as described in our Service and Overhaul Manual or elsewhere in our technical support documents. Don |
#4
IP: 207.118.146.50
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Acid Flush and water temp change
Don,
Last weekend I successfully used the acid flush procedure - and a fair amount of gunk came out. Later that weekend, cruising out of the harbor, I noticed the water temp went up to about 170 - it had been running at 160 or so fairly regularly. Any clues on the increase in temp? The engine runs smoothly and idles down nicely. I'm using the hotter thermostat in the MM enclosure. I'm not terribly concerned, since its still within "normal" temp limits - in fact running a bit hotter is fine with me if it will also run a bit cleaner. |
#5
IP: 38.102.24.128
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It is rather unusual to see temperature go up after an acid flush, even though (as you say) 170 degrees is still in the very normal range. I would look at the amount of water coming out with the exhaust to be sure it's still a normal amount. You could have loosened enough crud to partially block the fitting where your cooling water enters the exhaust system or perhaps the 90 degree elbow at the rear of the manifold.
Don |
#6
IP: 173.79.222.18
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Is there any possibility of damage to a heater core in a hot water heater by doing an acid flush with the exhaust water running through the hot water heater core?
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#7
IP: 68.46.137.140
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I am planning to acid flush the engine today while I am on my mooring. Is it environmentally safe to allow the acid solution to flow out the exhaust and into the water? Should i run some baking soda through the engine after letting the acid sit for 15 min to neutralize the acid in the engine?
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#8
IP: 199.36.244.19
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Quote:
Add baking soda to that to neutralize the acid. No need for baking soda thru the engine. Just flush really well. You may want to consider doing the PRESSURE FLUSH after the acid flush. Many find that the acid flush breaks loose crud that finds its way to little spots where they get hung up and cause cooling issues later. See http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5486
__________________
-Jerry 'Lone Ranger' 1978 RANGER 30 |
The Following User Says Thank You to roadnsky For This Useful Post: | ||
TimBSmith (10-28-2020) |
#9
IP: 68.46.137.140
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Thanks for the feedback. When performing the acid flush, can i simply remove the hose (while keeping the intake valve closed) for the raw water intake and insert it in the acid/water bucket? What is the need for the "t" fitting?
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#10
IP: 98.175.156.78
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my first acid flush today...piece a cake
i did my first acid flush today..heres a novice's take on the procedure...easy and nothing negative ....cept for the crap comin out the exhaust...and a noticeable increase in water exiting the exhaust(which is why we're doin this in the first place). i performed this because my engine was runnin hot under load..about 180 or just short of 180..granted the air temp here in r.i. has been around 90 and the bay temp is about 75 now...im motorin around tonite to c if it made a difference.
the procedure itself is a piece of cake..all i did is remove the raw water intake hose from the seacock(after making sure the seacock was closed), insert a 3/4" hose barb into the raw water hose, insert the other end of the barb into a piece of hose extension, stick the free end of the hose barb into a bucket of 5gal of water to 1/3gal (appox. 42.6 oz) of muriatic acid which i bought a gallon of it in a hardware store for 8 bucks),clamp off the bypass hose before the thermostat, turn the engine on and when the 5gal mix was gone i shut the engine off, had a beer, and 15 min later, reattach the raw water intake to the seacock, turn the engine on and flush the solution out of the engine ...you shoulda seen the brown gunk comin out..once the effluent was clear..i was good to go....with a noticeable increase in the volume of water comin out the exhaust....tonite ill c if it made a difference in a lowering the temp....took all of 30 minutes including cleanup... |
The Following User Says Thank You to surfjat For This Useful Post: | ||
TimBSmith (10-28-2020) |
#11
IP: 98.118.103.248
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First time flushing, im running up to 200 degrees under load. (Sabre 28). of course we all want the easy way out. Id like to not take the starter or aluternator out to flush. I dont have a lot of room on that side of the engine (sailboat designers). I can easly tap into my raw water strainer and run off a 5 gallon bucket on deck. If I acid wash let it sit for a beer or two what are my chances of sucess without power flushing? Will the acid kick up any sand in the jacket and help flush it out? Also my exaust is low on the stern, I dont think I can get a 5 gallon bucket under the exaust. with at least partly sinking the bucket behind the stern. if i spill and im killing fish and getting fined? how long should i run the engine after to insure flushed out?
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#12
IP: 97.67.11.26
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Acid Capture & Disposal question
I've read a couple of different opinions re: used acid exiting the boat & the environment. I'd don't want to dump the stuff into the canal, at any rate.
I like Dave's method of circulating the stuff w/ the engine off, keeping it sort of a closed system. Also thinking of catching it in a bucket, but have a very low exhaust port so maybe need a fitting, a large ID hose and a 5gal bucket on a line. Where's the best place to dispose of used neutralized solution? Take it home & (when the wife's not lookin) dump it down the sink? Leads on this appreciated |
#13
IP: 205.178.105.141
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The byproduct of the wash should be salt water, and mineral deposits. No environmental catastrophe
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#14
IP: 174.58.82.173
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I used to freak out the students, by drinking neutralized acid.
Take some hydrochloric acid and sodium hydroxide, mix together. You get salt water, that I would drink. Point is that neutralized acid is harmless. |
#15
IP: 99.46.179.179
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Flush Help Please
Hello everyone.
I have been reading and enjoying all the posts and information posted. I am looking for some help if anyone has any advice. I read through the whole Flushing thread a couple times but I am still a bit timid. Im a sailor not a mechanic. Anyway; I want to do a flush of my engine. I run it in the Sf Bay and have not flushed it once in the past year. I thought a flushing meant connecting a fresh water hose, forward of the raw water intake and behind the water pump. I have a Tee connection with two ball joints. I would turn on the engine with the raw water open and then open the valve for the fresh water. I would want to close the raw water valve after a few minutes and have only the fresh water pumping through. I would keep this configuration for a few minutes and then open the raw water again, close the fresh water and then shut off the engine. This is what I thought a flush was. Was I incorrect? It sounds like a good way to help prevent corrosion if i can do it after every couple of sailing trips. But after reading all the threads I have not seen one mention about my concept of flushing my engine. The threads all mention an Acid flush with Muriatic acid. I am not against this idea at all and it sounds good. The pressure flush, I'm not to keen on. Again im not a mechanic and I don't want to do the wrong thing or strip something. Here are my actual questions for anyone with knowledge or experience. 1.Can I do the Acid flush and then the Fresh water flush that I mentioned earlier? 2.Is the Freshwater flush I mentioned even a thing? if so; Is the process i mentioned earlier acceptable? 3. For the acid flush; if I put a hose from the Tee to the mixture bucket, forward the Raw water inlet, with the raw water valve shut. Can I just turn the engine on? Will that draw the Acid mix from the bucket? Or will the mixture need to be forced in to the block? or the raw water open the whole time? Im worried that any running of the engine without water could be detrimental. The Fresh water flushing I mentioned seems like a good concept and it can be done as often as desired because it seems so simple (hook up a hose, close one ball valve and open another). As opposed to a Forced Flush or Acid flush which take tools and a better confidence than I have. Sorry for this being so long and my lack of experience (im sure ive used the wrong terms somewhere). But thank you to everyone that was able to read all the way through and contribute. I really appreciate it. looking forward to your feedback Fair winds! |
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