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  #1   IP: 68.9.169.239
Old 04-25-2021, 04:58 PM
tritonyawl2 tritonyawl2 is offline
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Relocate the Water Pump

For over 20 years the location of the water pump on my boat has been a torture. There are only 2 bolts and 2 hoses that must be removed to get this water pump out. Years ago I installed the long bolt Moyer offered for the bottom bolt. I even put in a much larger hatch (17 x 24) to have better access. Both improvements helped, but it is still a bear of a job.

So this year I bought the impeller puller with high hopes. So far the four screws holding the cover are not cooperating after 2 days of PB Blaster. In my case the gear shift is in the way as well as the intake seacock and some plumbing. But the screws are not moving.

I'd be willing to pay a lot if the pump could be relocated near the front of the engine. The flywheel shaft or the alternator belt are a couple possible sources of power. Or even an electric pump would be a godsend.

Replacing the impeller is by far the worst job on my boat. It can take a couple hours. And I don't want to think about the impeller ever letting go while motoring with no wind. You'd have to remove the pump no matter the conditions.

Sorry for the rant. My boat may have this worse than others. The Atomic 4 and Moyer's service are great and I'm grateful for both. And I'm hopeful the 4 screws will eventually turn. Anyone else tired of dealing with this problem?
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Old 04-25-2021, 05:42 PM
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ronstory ronstory is offline
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Regarding the stubborn screws, do you have space to use a good old impact screwdriver?

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-bit-...caAlfVEALw_wcB

Also, while changing the impeller does qualify as a yoga class session, it's a 30-40 min job for me on our boat. That said, I'm using a Moyer pump with sealed bearings (no grease cup ) and captive thumbwheels on the cover.

I just remove the cover using fingers only (and a towel), grab the impeller with a short a needlenose, wiggle and yank. Note the orientation of the slot during removal for easy installation. The shaft comes out and I replace the impeller from the comfort of the counter put a touch a synthetic grease on the shaft and then slide back in.

The only tricky thing is making sure the rubber O-ring in the cover stays in the groove. I help with retention using a bit of synthetic grease to keep things in place and on the threads of the thumbscrews.

The thumbscrew cover is simply a godsend.

I also wondered if you really need the retention clip with the impeller being captive in the chamber, as is the shaft via aux drive. That said, I still haven't be brave enough to skip it.
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Last edited by ronstory; 04-28-2021 at 10:59 AM. Reason: typos
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  #3   IP: 68.9.169.239
Old 04-25-2021, 06:07 PM
tritonyawl2 tritonyawl2 is offline
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Thanks, Ron. Very good suggestions. Will get that impact driver tomorrow. I think it might fit. And when I get the pump or cover out, will replace with the thumb screw cover. I like finger screws.

Just discovered there is an electric replacement. Still requires raw sea water. Expensive but may be a good idea. Why not a closed system - radiator with fan like a car?
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Old 04-25-2021, 07:56 PM
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It does not take much force on the impact drives. Just spin counter-clockwise on the screw to take up any slack in the rotation before you whack it.

Interesting. Who makes an electric version? I would be curious of the design since with a waterlift muffler, the flow likely needs to vary with engine RPM. With one a constant speed, you could risk flooding the motor due to not enough exhaust pressure (eg. idle) or alternatively too low of flow for high RPM cooling.
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Old 04-25-2021, 09:30 PM
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  1. Relocate the pump: More like abandon the inaccessible engine mounted pump and install a PTO pedestal mounted pump driven off the flywheel, same as the Moyer fresh water cooling system uses. There is nothing to re-engineer, all the parts are available. If I were considering this, I'd remove the original pump for good and fashion a blank plate in its place, gasketed of course.
  2. Electric raw water pump: I'll repeat the point Ron made, depending on exhaust type you may require proportionate flow to the engine RPM and corresponding exhaust flow. If your exhaust is a straight pipe, stand pipe or water jacketed, no problem with full flow regardless of engine RPM. If it's a waterlift, proportionate flow becomes critical.
  3. Automotive cooling system with a radiator: You won't have sufficient air flow to keep up with the engine heat. It's not like your radiator is cruising down the highway with 80 MPH worth of air running through it.
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  #6   IP: 68.9.169.239
Old 04-25-2021, 10:57 PM
tritonyawl2 tritonyawl2 is offline
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Thanks! the PTO pedestal mounted pump is worth investigation. Electric sounds possible, but would require more engineering.

Last edited by tritonyawl2; 04-28-2021 at 08:58 AM.
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