#1
IP: 47.16.182.83
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Winterizing x2 advise
I am looking for an advise on the engine winterizing. I ended up not putting my boat into water this season. Instead I am doing some work this summer, which was long overdue. The engine was winterized last fall and I've not touched it since. The question is whether I should leave it like this until next spring or run it on the hard and winterize again this fall. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Alex 1976 Catalina 30 Perth Amboy, NJ |
#2
IP: 38.27.109.137
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Do you know/trust what was done last time?
Who did the work? Bill |
#3
IP: 69.250.111.245
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I would not start it...just spray some MMO in the cylinders and turn it over by hand with no plugs in it, if you have a hand crank without 'pumping' all the antifreeze out, to move some oil around in it. I see you have a C-30..you will need to drill a hole in the seat to get to the flywheel pin to do this..you could also flip the starter a bit but that could move some of the antifreeze out of the raw water side if you crank too long. I would drain the muffler before starting next spring after this exercise just in case some antifreeze moved thru and filled the muffler up.
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#4
IP: 47.16.182.83
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W2ET I do all the maintenance on the boat. So, I always know what was done Shawn, thanks for the advise. I do have an access to flywheel, so I can just turn it by hand. Many thanks for the advise.
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Alex 1976 Catalina 30 Perth Amboy, NJ |
The Following User Says Thank You to Wisakedjack For This Useful Post: | ||
sastanley (09-19-2020) |
#5
IP: 69.250.111.245
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A couple more thoughts from the peanut gallery now that we have more info.
I don't worry as much about air in the parts of the cooling system as I would frozen sea water. But, if you really want to keep the cooling system pickled, you could place a funnel full of antifreeze on a short piece of hose on top of the raw water pump intake so that as you spin the motor by hand, antifreeze that gets pumped out into the muffler gets replaced...again, remembering to drain that extra antifreeze from the muffler so it doesn't have a chance to backfill up the short hot stack on our C-30's when you do restart it next time.
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
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Wisakedjack (09-02-2020) |
#6
IP: 32.211.28.40
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Winterizing a raw water engine is always iffy - fine until it isn't. Replacing an engine with a cracked block convinced me to install a heat exchanger and go to glycol cooling. I recommend going to glycol cooling - easier to do it if you do it before the block cracks!
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#7
IP: 47.16.182.83
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I got a crank for MM, but when I got it to the boat I found that my crankshaft end does not have a pin. I can feel the hole there, but the pin is missing. I know I can get one from MM, but what does it take to put it into the shaft? Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
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Alex 1976 Catalina 30 Perth Amboy, NJ |
#8
IP: 47.54.60.150
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Mine is raw water cooled. I winterize it with automobile green antifreeze 50/50 mix. If it was done right and you used good antifreeze there should be no problem. That said, "no frost problems". Any engine that sits for long periods should be turned over. I ensure mine is once a month...this past winter I put the carb back on (I usually pull it and clean it in the fall) and started the engine once a month. Started no problem -5 C. That ensures the valves don't start to stick etc...keeps it "fresh". Prior years to that I cranked it over on the batteries / starter once a month just to move the valves and pistons... some rpms.
Occasionally I hear of boats who's engines incurred water because water was coming into a hatch and dripped on top of the head...then leaked down through the plugs...this can cause stuck valves and or pistons. Something to consider and a layed up engine could use tarp over the top of it if there is a chance of water draining onto it. Edit: Your gas? Did you have stabilizer in it. If not it has to be removed prior to trying it...just asking for trouble. A good practice is that every Jerry Can gets hit with 20ml of stabil first Hope that helps.
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Mo "Odyssey" 1976 C&C 30 MKI The pessimist complains about the wind. The optimist expects it to change. The realist adjusts the sails. ...Sir William Arthur Ward. Last edited by Mo; 09-18-2020 at 07:47 PM. |
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TimBSmith (10-03-2020) |
#9
IP: 47.16.182.83
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Yes, I put stabilizer into the gas tank when I winterized the engine. I took the batteries off the boat. I am moving battery box into another location and doing some rewiring. But that's another story... So, I can't turn it over using starter now. I was planing to turn engine using hand crank. But because my crankshaft does not seem to have a roll pin the slot on the hand crank has nothing to catch on.
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Alex 1976 Catalina 30 Perth Amboy, NJ |
#10
IP: 69.250.111.245
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Can you take a picture of the crank at the flywheel? Unless it fell out for some unknown reason, I can't believe the roll pin is missing...
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#11
IP: 47.16.182.83
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Took me a while to get back to the boat. Here is a picture.
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Alex 1976 Catalina 30 Perth Amboy, NJ |
#12
IP: 47.16.182.83
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So, does anyone have any experience with installing roll pin that is available from MM https://moyermarine.com/product/roll...t-ovcc_09_205/ and could share some details? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Alex 1976 Catalina 30 Perth Amboy, NJ |
#13
IP: 47.142.133.234
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If you don't get any helpful replies R\E the roll pin Ken at MMI should be able help. Or maybe Don will come through.
ex TRUE GRIT |
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Wisakedjack (10-06-2020) |
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