Impromptu Overhaul

[Don Moyer]

Idler shaft puller

Hi Greg,

Hopefully you didn't tighten the inside part of the puller too tightly, in which case you should be able to wrap some protective material around the spindle and hold it gently with a pair of vise grips. Thin cardboard, like a piece of file folder material should work. I always held the spindle on the smaller end that goes into the block so that if I ended up with any dings I could take a small file and dress that area up a bit. Don

[GregH]

Hi Greg,

Hopefully you didn't tighten the inside part of the puller too tightly, in which case you should be able to wrap some protective material around the spindle and hold it gently with a pair of vise grips. Thin cardboard, like a piece of file folder material should work. I always held the spindle on the smaller end that goes into the block so that if I ended up with any dings I could take a small file and dress that area up a bit. Don

Well I thought I put it on only finger tight.. but my assumption is the screwing down the outside section tightened the inside part.

I'll try the carboard on the THIN section tonight.

Note: upon reflection - I did not hold the inner screw steady with a wrench while screwing down the outside section- so it tightened it down the inner screw way too much.

[GregH]

+1

Hi Greg,

Hopefully you didn't tighten the inside part of the puller too tightly, in which case you should be able to wrap some protective material around the spindle and hold it gently with a pair of vise grips. Thin cardboard, like a piece of file folder material should work. I always held the spindle on the smaller end that goes into the block so that if I ended up with any dings I could take a small file and dress that area up a bit. Don

Well that did work - using the narrower section and I did have to gently dress up the two spots.

+1

[GregH]

ok on Monday I am taking the following into the shop (pardon my not knowing the correct terms here):

Block
- magnaflux test and from the result of that if good
- honing cylinders
- removing cam and idler bearings
- hot tanking
- prep/level surface? (letting me know how much removed in case need another head gasket)

Head
- Prep/level surface

Manifold
Pistons
Cam
Crank
- so they can measure clearances for me as I don't have the right tools nor experience for that. - need to provide specs from manual.

What am I missing?
- Should removed bearings be tossed or can they be reused?
- Should clearances be done before anything else but the magnaflux as the bearings will still be in for that?
- What else....

[Al Schober]

Take the reversing gear cover. Have them drill/tap the manifold side for the Kaminsky mod.

[GregH]

Take the reversing gear cover. Have them drill/tap the manifold side for the Kaminsky mod.

Right!
Forgotten about that one.

https://moyermarine.com/techtip001-2-2-2-2-2/

[GregH]

Alternator Fan Direction

Direct drive A4. Flywheel end I'm designating as "front"...

When standing at the "front" looking at the alternator, which direction do the aux drive and alt pulley spin? Counter-Clockwise?

[GregH]

Piston & Cylinders

The shop has called and said that the cylinders need boring. Such that I'll need +0.020 pistons for it.

Now I am very much a Noob at this. What is the difference between needing a 020 piston versus needing 020 rings on a standard piston?

[Dave Neptune]

Greg, piston clearance is important. Your pistons in a .020" bore would slap around and destroy themselves and/or the bores.

How much taper was reported to require the over bore?

Dave Neptune

[GregH]

Greg, piston clearance is important. Your pistons in a .020" bore would slap around and destroy themselves and/or the bores.

How much taper was reported to require the over bore?

Dave Neptune

Sorry for not understanding.

If using +020 pistons, does that mean they need +020 sized rings on them? Or are the +020 sized rings meant to be used on std sized pistons?

I do not have the details yet about the bore.

[Dave Neptune]

Yes the piston and rings are sized to the bore. You can go .005" over on the rings when a "clean -up" bore is done, which means the piston is .005 under which is somewhat acceptable.

Again how much taper (wear) is there in your bores?

Dave Neptune

[GregH]

I won't be able to find out the taper until the business opens again next week. Will try and get some more info.

They by standard practice prefer to replace all bearings so they are fresh. None of the bearings, journals, etc need to be different size than standard I'm told. Of course I'm of the mind to keep the bearings, etc if that's the case. Or is that the wrong thinking ?

[Dave Neptune]

If it is apart and std bearings will still work GO $ THE NEW, worth the money!

Get the bore info, it may not really be necessary to bore. Perhaps a clean up hone will do it and save the pistons.

I am curious as to why they say go .020" over, or is it they "happen" to have those pistons on the shelf and need to "sell" them. Or there is a lot of damage in one of the bores.

Do you know about where the compression was before dis-assembly? And why was it tore down in the first place. I have not read the entire thread .

Dave Neptune

[edwardc]

Related question to group:

What drives the choice between boreing and oversize pistons vs sleeving and standard pistons?

[Dave Neptune]

edward, my guess would be cost and the integrity of the material behind the bore. In a fresh water cooled engine I would probably go for the bore and the little extra torque that the displacement would yield. In a raw water (saltwater) cooled engine I would consider the sleeves only if there was still good integrity in the threads for the studs to get a good strong bite. If the block is breaking down I would consider a "block" from MMI and use all the parts still good from the old engine or go oversize on all of the studs and sleeve the block

I think availability of parts and personal confidence would be the consideration factor, while looking at the finances.

Dave Neptune