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  #1   IP: 166.137.141.218
Old 06-29-2011, 05:27 PM
Jhhecken Jhhecken is offline
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Stalling ... wrong fuel bowl?

This spring I purchased a Islander 30 with an atomic four. The A4 has been stalling out after about 90 minutes then won't start until it rests for about 20-30 minutes. It isn't running hot according to the water tmp gauge which seems to be working properly. When it stalls it loses power for a few minutes then it struggles and dies like it isn't getting fuel. Then it will turn over fine but not start for 20-30 minutes.

Most everything is new or rebuilt on the engine. Before launch we replaced the file lines, the fuel tank, the fuel filter, rebuilt carb and rebuilt the starter and points.

One thing I found is that the fuel bowl appears to be the wrong size. Previous owner had it rigged into place with a spacer but it is about half as deep the one I just ordered from Moyer to replace it. My question is could this be causing the problem, maybe allowing air to leak in?

Any other thoughts?

Digger
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:18 PM
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Mark Millbauer Mark Millbauer is offline
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Given the amount of time it takes to cut out and the fact that a cool down period seems to temporarily repair it, sounds like an ignition coil that is going bad to me. Feel it with your hand after and hour or so, if it's very hot to the touch, it's probably bad. There are some resistance tests you can do on it cold and then imediately after it shuts down but coils can be weird. They don't cost too much so you might replace it ( Get one with the 3-4 OHM resistance rating and keep the old one on board.) and see if that does the trick. Good luck and do report back.

Mark
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  #3   IP: 71.231.70.209
Old 06-29-2011, 11:23 PM
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Mark Millbauer Mark Millbauer is offline
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Ooops. I should have started my previous message with the suggestion to test for spark immediately after it shuts down before assuming it's the coil or ignition.

At any rate, based on your message my hunch is ignition. At least it's and easy place to start.

mark
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:26 PM
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Digger,

Absolutely agree with Mark, it would be good to eliminate the coil as a suspect before moving on. What's the worst that could happen, you end up with a new coil? Not much risk in trying it.

BTW, what year is your 30?
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1977 Catalina 30
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prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
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Old 06-30-2011, 10:27 AM
Jhhecken Jhhecken is offline
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Thanks, Mark and Neil.

I will swap out the coil this weekend along with the fuel bowl.

My Islander is a 1976.
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Old 06-30-2011, 10:47 AM
Jhhecken Jhhecken is offline
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One quick follow up. Would a bad coil cause the loss of power/bogging down, as well? I thought a bad coil would just cause the engine to cut out completely?
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Old 06-30-2011, 11:15 AM
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The experience around here is an overheating coil mimics fuel related shutdown symptoms. Strange but true. Most electrical failures are total and instant flameout like you mentioned but this acts differently. That's why it's good to eliminate it as a possibility before addressing possible fuel issues otherwise you could be chasing your tail for a while.

1976 huh? I worked for Islander when your boat was built. Bob Finch design, great sailing reputation. Have you experienced any deck issues at the mast step?

edit:
wanted to add that Moyer sells an epoxy filled coil for vibration issues but when choosing my coil in the conversion to electronic ignition I read that oil filled coils handle heat better.
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Had my hands in a few others

Last edited by ndutton; 06-30-2011 at 11:19 AM.
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Old 06-30-2011, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhhecken View Post
One quick follow up. Would a bad coil cause the loss of power/bogging down, as well? I thought a bad coil would just cause the engine to cut out completely?
Digger-
Yes, it's possible that you could get a "stumbles and dies" symptom with the coil after it gets hot, but very likely you may have 2 separate issues.

Might want to read this thread...
http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=171

I totally agree with Mark and Neil. Replace the coil. Nothing lost there.
You want a spare one in your kit anyway.
Not sure I understand the smaller bowl comment and why the PO changed it anyway. Absolutely get the carb and fuel system as "stock" and you can't go wrong.
Is the fuel pump ELECTRIC or MECHANICAL?
We love pictures on this forum BTW...
Attached Images
File Type: pdf Non-starting checklist.pdf (11.6 KB, 1030 views)
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Old 06-30-2011, 11:26 AM
Marian Claire
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  #9   IP: 166.137.141.218
Old 06-30-2011, 12:45 PM
Jhhecken Jhhecken is offline
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Thanks, guys this is all very helpful. I will definitely start by changing the coil. It has a mechanical fuel pump, which I have intentions of rebuilding, but was putting it off. It the coil doesn't fix it then I will probably do it now.

Neil, I haven't experienced any deck issues around the mast, but maybe I'm not looking close enough. Is there anything in particular that I should be checking for?

Also, I want to try to resolve this stalling issue today or tomorrow because the boat is currently stuck about 50 miles away from my home port (much of which is a pretty narrow river) so unless I have favorable winds I will need to motor quite a bit to get her home. Can I get a coil at an auto parts store that would work on the A-4?

Digger
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Old 06-30-2011, 01:08 PM
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Marian Claire Marian Claire is offline
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Yes. The resistance should be between 3 and 4 ohms. Hopefully others better at the electrical stuff will confirm. Dan S/V Marian Claire
Edit: Post 2 confirms.

Last edited by Marian Claire; 06-30-2011 at 01:46 PM.
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Old 06-30-2011, 01:26 PM
Marian Claire
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Old 06-30-2011, 10:07 PM
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If you go to auto parts store for coil ask for Volkswagon bug ,circa 1967 12 volt, they didn't use external resistor, auto zone parts part #LU800
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Old 06-30-2011, 10:37 PM
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Thumbs up

Digger..+1 on the coil. I am late to the game, but I'll throw in my $0.02.

This was my first issue when my 32 year old Atomic 4 was new to me..I chased fuel gremlins for many hours, and it was the coil.

Moyer sells them here as well, & I like the Pertronix 40501 Chrome Flamethrower!
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Old 07-01-2011, 09:28 PM
Jhhecken Jhhecken is offline
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Ok. Replaced the coil and installed a priming bulb between the tank and the filter. Couldn't get the new fuel bowl to fit because I forgot to order the rubber washer so I put the small bowl back in for now.

Ran for an hour then stalled. Wouldn't restart at first then I primed it with the new bulb and it started back up. Then ran for five hours straight without a problem and we got her back down the river. So it looks like it was the coil and maybe some air in the line.

Thanks again to all for the help.

Digger
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Old 07-01-2011, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhhecken View Post
Neil, I haven't experienced any deck issues around the mast, but maybe I'm not looking close enough. Is there anything in particular that I should be checking for?
On some Islander 30's of your vintage the decks collapsed in the area of the mast step. I don't recall if it was a deck core or mast compression post issue or maybe a combination of the two. For sure it wasn't age related, this was happening within a year of manufacture. I'd say if you haven't seen a problem, you probably never will.

Another quirk of the Islander 30 or moreover the marketing of it, most competing boats offered a tall rig option for the racers. The rig option we offered was a "San Francisco" rig. It was shorter than standard because it blows like snot in SF.

BTW, great news on the 5 hour run. Feels gooood, yeah?
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Had my hands in a few others

Last edited by ndutton; 07-01-2011 at 11:03 PM.
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