Oil leak while winterized

[CRUX]

Yea I'm going to replace the pan.

Obviously oil pan gasket, but what other gaskets will I need for this job?

Which gaskets would you recommend using permatex on..if any?

I believe the pan bolts are 5/16 by 7/8", does that sound correct?

Should I be removing the output coupling/flange and flywheel housing off the motor as well for reinstalling the gaskets in the oil pan re-install?


Thank you in advance, I know some of those questions may seem elementary to many, but first time doing a job like this!

[ronstory]

I used SS 5/16" x 1" coarse bolts since I would rather the bolt stick up completely though the block so not to crease an opportunity for water to puddle.

Gasket instructions for sealant can be found here:

https://moyermarine.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/gasketsGASK_01_140.pdf

From my sketchy memory, you will need oil pan gasket , front flywheel gasket and rear output flange gaskets. I would recommend you call Ken at MMI early monday and he can walk thru what you need.

On a good day i'm a talented amateur, Ken is an expert.

[Mo]

Crux, you just made the best call on that. Ken at Moyer is awesome and he'll know right off the top of his head what you need.

[ronstory]

Plus replacing the 40+ year old real seal is really easy with the engine out.

I would also check the condition of the output flange where it contacts the seal. Mine had noticeable ridge so I replaced the seal and the flange, MMI sells both.

[Surcouf]

do not wait for the new pan to remove the old one... with the level of corrosion you have, you will likely break a few bolts, or have to grind a couple heads.
And then the fun begins....

[ronstory]

Plus you may a well start applying Kroil, PB blaster or your favorite penetrating cocktail on the those rusty threaded bits. It will likely be a game of inches. ;^)

Good luck.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Plus you may a well start applying Kroil, PB blaster or your favorite penetrating cocktail on the those rusty threaded bits. It will likely be a game of inches. ;^)
Good luck.

If you tap on the bolts with a hammer after applying the "penetrating cocktail" it will help it penetrate better.

ex TRUE GRIT

[CRUX]

Will do, thanks.

[CRUX]

I was able to find a used oil pan in MA, about a 3 hour drive each way. 100$. The seller sent me these pics today and I'm planning on driving there this Saturday to pick it up.

I'd assume most pans are going to have some surface corrosion on them at this point, but should the rust under the pan flange concern me? Also the motor mount holes seem to have been elongated in one of the pictures.

Any recommendations before I make the drive would be appreciated! Thanks again

[ronstory]

It's in better shape then my pan, and the motor mounting holes look solid..

How does the gasket surface look?

[edwardc]

I think the apparent elongation of the mounting holes is just a photographic issue (pincushion distortion) caused by a wide-angle lens.

[Mo]

Not a terrible looking pan. Suggest sanding and grinding that pitting etc off there, clean with reducer, and paint with the best paint you can afford right now. 2 part epoxy would be my choice, but I have that laying around. I understand going out and buying it costs more than the pan...unless you know someone that uses the stuff and can do it for you on the side. (you wouldn't believe how much stuff I get done like that...favor for favor).

You are doing the right thing there. Not a bad looking pan.

[CRUX]

Un-related to the oil pan, I have some deep scaling on the on all sides of the water jacket side plate. So deep that I am definitely wary to start chipping away. The pictures don't do it justice.

I find this odd because there have been NO indications of a leak in that area since I've owned the boat for the past couple seasons.

The side plate/bolts don't look original to me, though i could be mistaken. One bolt head is gone completely, while the all the others look good.

FYI I run with the bypass loop and NO thermostat at about 110-120 degrees consistently, so no issues of overheating.

I imagine I will have have to swap out every bolt for studs, etc if I were to try to open up the side jacket, but I REALLY don't want to go down that road right now. Launch day is coming up quick and I'm only halfway done with the oil pan swap. Is it a terrible idea to leave as is??

[ronstory]

My two cents... if you are this close to plate that is missing a bolt head, I would fix it. It's going to be a lot easier to get access to that area now.

If your motor has decent compression, oil pressure and limited blow-by... there is no reason you could not get years out of this re-install. However, if it starts to leak later... trying to get rusted side plate off in situ is not going to be fun. IMO, those side plate bolt make that pan and head bolts look easy. I broke two off even with soaking, tapping and heat.

Well, at least there is one bolt that won't break off on you... so only 7 to go.

[Surcouf]

I had a very scaled motor, exactly where your is... This part went OK. A lot of "cold chiseling" and scrapping , then multiple cleaning and then POR painting.

But scaling only occurrs with water, so you must have one small leak potentially only when engine is hot. Be aware that the A4 head casting has a weak point below the water pump, just above your heavy scaling...