#26
IP: 107.77.203.185
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Although not ideal, I hooked up a pressure gage to the discharge of the Facet pump and energized it…5#. A little high, but it’s not tee’d in with the carb hooked up. I’m gonna call fuel pressure good.
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Rick Bushie s/v Anchovy, 1971 C&C 30-1, Hull #1 Tolchester, MD |
#27
IP: 138.207.177.95
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The A4 is very tolerant of fuel pressure. IMHO 3-5 PSI is just fine. Ever since I did the vapor return mine sits right on 4 at all times.
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#28
IP: 155.186.122.195
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OK, now you have confirmed fuel delivery lets look to the ignition. I see that you stated the C-advance is smooth and lubricated ~ good.
Just for the sake of argument be sure the plug wires are in the correct order so it can be eliminated. Now to the "spark", is it a "snappy blue" or an anemic and yellowish? If yellowish lets look at the coil and points if so equipped. If you have points "what is the dwell"(?), not what is the point gap? It is likely that the "cam" inside the distributor is badly worn by now so setting points with a dwell meter is a must for a good tune. The need of having to purchase dwell meter or purchasing an EI to replace ever needing to check dwell is a great option. Also have you tried advancing the timing a few degrees to see if it helps. I'm guessing with the 3 blade a good running A-4 should see at least 17~1800 RPM's, not nearly enough to make much more than about 16~18 HP of the rated 25 HP. Dave Neptune |
#29
IP: 107.77.202.217
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Ok.
In neutral @800rpm: vacuum is running about 13inHg (oscillating wildly between 10 and 17inHg) On snap accel/decel: bogs down to 1inHg and snaps back to 19inHg then settles back at previously mentioned idle numbers. On gradual acceleration: vacuum lowers to 10inHg and is relatively steady.
__________________
Rick Bushie s/v Anchovy, 1971 C&C 30-1, Hull #1 Tolchester, MD |
#30
IP: 38.134.112.202
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Under load:
Forward full throttle is 980rpm and steady 2 inHg . Astern full throttle is 1125 rpm and a steady 2inHg.
__________________
Rick Bushie s/v Anchovy, 1971 C&C 30-1, Hull #1 Tolchester, MD |
#31
IP: 107.77.202.217
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Forgot to mention, I bypassed the in-line fuel filter prior to the previous tests. I replaced it this spring but wanted to eliminate it a source of fuel starvation.
__________________
Rick Bushie s/v Anchovy, 1971 C&C 30-1, Hull #1 Tolchester, MD |
#32
IP: 138.207.177.95
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Quote:
At 2" I would get over 2,000 RPM unless the prop is badly fouled. Also, you may want a snubber for the vacuum gauge so it doesn't jump around. |
#33
IP: 38.134.112.202
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Confirmed firing order. Changed cap and rotor…cap terminals were burnt and pitted.
In idle vacuum smoothed out considerably at 15”Hg. Full throttle in forward still 980 but vacuum improved to 3”Hg. Vacuum drops to 13”Hg at 2500rpm Progress!
__________________
Rick Bushie s/v Anchovy, 1971 C&C 30-1, Hull #1 Tolchester, MD Last edited by rickinnj; 10-09-2021 at 01:49 PM. |
#34
IP: 38.134.112.202
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With engine warmed up compression in all four cylinders is 120-125 psig.
Plugs are dry and sooty. Confirmed gap at .035”.
__________________
Rick Bushie s/v Anchovy, 1971 C&C 30-1, Hull #1 Tolchester, MD |
#35
IP: 107.77.204.79
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I clamped a spark plug to the lifting bracket and tested spark from all four wires. Strong blue/white spark.
__________________
Rick Bushie s/v Anchovy, 1971 C&C 30-1, Hull #1 Tolchester, MD |
#36
IP: 107.77.204.79
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!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!BRAND NEW DEVELOPMENT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
After I put the ignition system back together I started the motor and ran her in gear at full throttle. Same top shaft speed of 980rpm. All of a sudden, she sped up so much that I thought it popped out of gear (I didn’t have time to get a shaft speed but I was moving water out from under the back of the boat…the prop was spinning). About 5 seconds later it bogged down again. I checked shaft speed and she was turning 1000-1150rpm. Something is definitely binding. What’s next?
__________________
Rick Bushie s/v Anchovy, 1971 C&C 30-1, Hull #1 Tolchester, MD |
The Following User Says Thank You to rickinnj For This Useful Post: | ||
TimBSmith (10-11-2021) |
#37
IP: 38.134.112.202
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I tightened the alternator belt…it was loose and smoking. Started the engine back up and ran it forward and reverse. 1250rpm forward and reverse 1”Hg vacuum
__________________
Rick Bushie s/v Anchovy, 1971 C&C 30-1, Hull #1 Tolchester, MD |
#38
IP: 38.134.112.202
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I’m gonna loosen the shaft packing again and cycle between forward and reverse for awhile and see if that makes a difference.
__________________
Rick Bushie s/v Anchovy, 1971 C&C 30-1, Hull #1 Tolchester, MD |
#39
IP: 47.142.136.232
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Quote:
ex TRUE GRIT |
#40
IP: 107.77.204.79
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Loosened the shaft packing. Cycled between forward and reverse about ten times. Achieved 1330 rpm in forward with 2”Hg manifold vacuum in forward.
__________________
Rick Bushie s/v Anchovy, 1971 C&C 30-1, Hull #1 Tolchester, MD |
#41
IP: 138.207.177.95
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How easy is the shaft to turn by hand in neutral?
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#42
IP: 38.134.112.202
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Very easy .
__________________
Rick Bushie s/v Anchovy, 1971 C&C 30-1, Hull #1 Tolchester, MD |
#43
IP: 155.186.122.195
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Rick, when she revved up and was moving water was there a difference in sound?
Sooty plugs can be caused by an over rich load situation or back pressure in the exhaust. First how old is the exhaust? And the last time it was replaced was the exhaust hose replaced? The hose can collapse on the inside causing a restriction and pop open occasionally with an increase in performance while open. Did you run the engine with the exhaust unhooked under load? I doubt it is the carb as you changed the jet and should of noticed any debris in the bowl. Dave Neptune |
#44
IP: 73.178.105.13
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Last week during troubleshooting I pulled the exhaust off of the manifold and ran it. No change in performance.
I took the boat for a spin this afternoon I achieved 4.7 kts SOG both directions along the fairway in the marina. 1250rpm. Then I went for a sail 15-20out of the NE with 25 gusts.
__________________
Rick Bushie s/v Anchovy, 1971 C&C 30-1, Hull #1 Tolchester, MD |
#45
IP: 47.142.136.232
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What is the drip rate after you loosened the packing nut? Or do you have some sort of dripless packing?
ex TRUE GRIT |
#46
IP: 73.178.105.13
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About 10 DPM.
__________________
Rick Bushie s/v Anchovy, 1971 C&C 30-1, Hull #1 Tolchester, MD |
#47
IP: 73.178.105.13
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no good deed goes unpunished
The last time I left you I had achieved 4.7 kts SOG both directions along the fairway in the marina @ 1250rpm.
I decided to replace the exhaust since the hose was original and soft. I thought maybe there might be some performance to be gained from some long overdue maintenance. And I figured I might as well pull out everything and do some cleanup...bad move...sorta. The black iron is rusted from the outside. What I've always thought was a standpipe is actually some sort of heat exchanger. The exhaust is completely isolated from the raw water side. I'm not sure if I'm gonna be able to separate the black iron from the standpipe without causing damage. I might have to scrap the entire setup and go with a riser and water lift.
__________________
Rick Bushie s/v Anchovy, 1971 C&C 30-1, Hull #1 Tolchester, MD |
#48
IP: 138.207.177.95
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Yikes! What IS that thing
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#49
IP: 165.225.20.153
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something pretty dead... Happy corrosion day!
__________________
Surcouf A nostalgic PO - Previously "Almost There" - Catalina 27 (1979) |
#50
IP: 104.174.83.118
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What you're calling a standpipe now is more accurately an abbreviated water jacketed exhaust and you may have a bigger problem than the rusty pipe going into it. Why so rusty? That area of the exhaust is designed to be bone dry inside and out so where did the water come from to cause the extensive rust? Its proximity to the water jacket and directly below it suggests the water jacket is the source. If it is, it shouldn't be so something is leaking there.
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
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