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Old 07-01-2017, 03:29 AM
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Brent W Brent W is offline
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Everett WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHN COOKSON View Post
Take it easy on yourself. You are doing the right things. All is not lost.
Thanks! I'm amazed by the encouraging folks on this forum!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHN COOKSON View Post
The way it sounds to me there was (is?) water in the cylinders that was pushed out through a stuck open intake valve(s). Take the spark plugs out, put a rag over the top of the engine, and spin it until the water is out of it. Then put some MMO or regular oiling the cylinders and spin it again with the starter. The idea is to get rid of the water and lube the cylinders.
I thought so as well and took those actions. What causes them to stick? Could it just be the winter without attention?


Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHN COOKSON View Post
. Might as well take the carb off and plan on rebuilding it. Sounds like it is full of foreign material. Once you get the carb off take the plate off so you can see the lifters. This will help you nail down the stuck valve status.
makes sense. I did and there was some gunk and some new orange rust stains on the choke and butterfly valve.

I was contemplating removing the head and exhaust manifold to inspect/clean/repair. Would this be a logical step at this point? What is best way to unstick valves if the MMO bath doesn't do the trick?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHN COOKSON View Post
Is there any chance the engine was frozen when it wasn't winterized? If the engine was frozen do a pressure test of the block to see if it was cracked.
Fairly mild winters, but it did freeze a few times. I did have a small electric space heater in the cabin all winter running, and I hoped that was enough, but I wouldn't bet my life on it. Does the antifreeze in the FWC system prevent that? If I'm learning correctly, the raw water doesn't enter engine, only injected into exhaust where it exits manifold?

Thank you

BW
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