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Welcome to the forum. We'll try to help.
Sounds like you want to do what obviously needs doing, but avoiding any lower end or piston/ring stuff. Not a bad way to go. Sounds like you're committed to removing the head.
Definitely pull all the valves. Take them to the shop and have them professionally faced and cleaned. While they're out, get a suitable sized pistol cleaning brush and do the valve guides.
Refacing the valve seats would be nice. Talk to the shop doing the valves - they may have a portable tool. They could do the job or loan you the tool. If not, lap the seats using the refurbished valves. Exhaust seats are likely to take more work.
As for cooling, I'm an advocate of glycol cooling. You'll do it eventually - do it now and be happy. I'm also an advocate of no thermostat - run the engine cool.
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