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Old 07-09-2016, 11:11 AM
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hanleyclifford hanleyclifford is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azazzera View Post
Didn't think about a dead short. That's why I its so good to ask questions. So if my knowledge is sufficient a dead short on tha last bar in the series will get full amp of whatever battery it's connected to. Hence the fuse <=7 inches away. And the fuse size should be larg enough to handle full load from the panel. I think I can go 150% of the load on the fuse. Not sure about that one. The wire of course needs to be large enough to handle the current I plan to pass through it. Must always remember that's what I'm trying to protect not the load or device. As far as led back light wires the simply emerg from under a circuit board. The tag on the wires state to hook positive to positive and negative to negative. I may decide to hook them up to a switch so the lights are not always on but I'm still thinking about that one. The closest positive source is the positive bus bar to the beakers. So I guess that they don't pre wire them because they may want to be switched. My plan was to go from battery to battery switch then from common from switch to panel and to starter stud. Two wires off of the common stud of battery switch. How am I doing so far. My one concern is where to place the fuse for panel. Only place is after common stud feed wire but may violate 7 once rule based on place of my battery's. Plan on using #2 wire from battery's to battery switch. And from common to starter. Understand it my be excessive.
Use of #2 as you describe is not excessive. Since the panel uses a shunt type ammeter, which will be in the negative loop if it is like other Blue Sea meters, why not put your protection (150 amp breaker) right next to it?
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