Hi Ed,
Was just doing research...following and messaged you on your old thread on floats...now I find this post...believe I am on right track and this gives me containment all the way around bowl drip mystery. When I removed the carb today and started disassembly it had a lot of fuel sloshing around in it. The floats don't seem to have any leaks, yet there is strange wear on one of them. Unclear if/how related to lack of fuel being transited from bowl to venturi or the slow drip at main tunnel bolt hole during pump/carb testing.
Worth slowing down to address each element..curious float evidence first...I have an album of photos from last 2 days carb removal and disassembly visits..disassembly almost complete.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6hEzNuvpMshSYB4U6
NO need to review these I will link specific pictures as needed.
I would say no, not normal. With the carb drain plug out, the float bowl should be empty, causing the float neeedle valve to be wide open. The bowl holds about a cup of fuel when full, and I've found that the electric pump can fill it within 15 sec. This works out to at least a quart a minute that should be coming out of that drain hole. Either your float valve is not fully releasing, there is an obstruction between the fuel inlet fitting and the float valve, or your pump is not putting out the volume it should be.
The specifics on bowl volume are extremely helpful, also excellent help from a commenter on my Pearson group who described stream flow characteristics, very helpful. Float valve, fuel inlet, pump volume understand for isolating focus. Continuing to clean carb and tank regardless.
Float continuation...There is a strange wear patter on the bottom of my left float. Welcome and diagnostic value you or team can add. https://photos.app.goo.gl/cjVWkgeejuostNvw8 The float is contacting the bowl enough to rub a mark on it see picture https://photos.app.goo.gl/agThqGoAknSAhesDA
Remember, pressure is not the same thing as volume. Test your fuel pump volume by removing the fuel line from the carb and putting it into an empty gas can. Energize the pump and run it for a timed minute and see how much gas you get in the can. It should be a substatnial amount, not a few ounces. If the pump fails, that's the problem. If the pump passes, the problem's in the carb, and it will need to come off to clean it by passing a fine wire through each and every passage (just spraying carb cleaner won't cut it).
I will do this at the boat tomorrow. Have not been satisfied with bolt hole flow as test for carb and pump and you just sealed it with the pressure/volume comment. No pun intended. Needed that.
If the pump is the problem, and you have a Facet brand pump, I've had repeated problems with the pump's internal check valve ball getting stuck and restricting the pump's output volume. The test and temp fix is easy.
Noted. I have a Facet will keep this in mind after volume test tomorrow. Will attempt check ball quick fix and retest. And reminder that I need a backup pump anyway as part of my contingency kit.
Place a wrench (I believe it's 7/8") on the nut shaped boss on the bottom of the pump and use it to release the bayonet twist-off bottom. Have something handy to catch the small amount of fuel that will come out. The check valve ball is reachable with a finger tip. Gently press it. It should move smoothly against a spring. If it doesn't, press harder. It will break free with an audible and palpable "click" and then move smoothly. This will temporarily fix the problem, but it WILL stick again if left unused for a while. The only long term fix is to replace the pump.
Understood. Excellent. I will post back after isolating pump volume, cleaning, reassembling, and reinstalling carb, cleaning fuel tank. Found out also, I did not test float valve/throat leak by loading carb with fuel 3 min using pump with channel bolt in. Understand that is a test I could have run before disassembly. Though if pump volume too low this might result in false positive pass. So pump volume test first anyway. Noted for future. Thankful. Stay well. Tim