HEAD REPLACEMENT

[ArtJ]

The head I am installng has missing freeze plugs.
The holes are apparently 1 1/4 inch diam.
After viewing installation video on their installation
would prefer to install threaded plugs.
Correction
Just viewed holes again - there are no threads and the plugs are 2 different sizes
So there is no other choice
Just need to find correct size plugs in catalog
Thanks

Art

Below INFO and Link provided courtesy of Jack Wright :

There are different styles of plugs. The only ones I've ever used are the convex brass plugs from Moyer. They are installed convex side out. I've copied a link to a helpful webpage on how to install this type of plug. Notice they use a hammer to set the plug in place. Moyer folks often recommend using JB Weld around the rim of the plug and hole, which is what I did.

Here's the link: http://www.spriteparts.com.au/tech/welch.html

[ArtJ]

2 head studs wont hold any torque

I finally got the longer studs for the thermostat today. I began the process
of torqueing the head. Starting from the center nut and working around clockwise.

I thought I had the torque wrench set for 25 ft lbs , but discovered that
it was actually set for 35 ft lbs. Howver all of the nuts torqued successfully
except the one holding the outer nut for the alternator bracket.
This was mushy and never got to anywhere near 35 . The same story
with the one next to it going clockwise gong towards the coil. I don't
think the 35 setting was the ssue because these 2 never got anywhere
near that tightness.

I cleaned and removed all the studs that came out with the nuts.
Those that did not I checked with a breaker bar using full strength.

to make sure the fine nut threads are not stripped though I doubt it.
Just checked 2 the nuts both are fun but these 2 studs are mush almost finger loose now.
I did run a die on all threads as recommended.

[ArtJ]

Suggestions on stud thread repair option would be welcomed.] and appreciated

Loctite?


Helicoil (never done before)?

Over sized stud rethreaded?

Thanks Art

[ArtJ]

Stud repair kit

I am Installing a head on my spare engine

Unfortunately 2 studs would not torque and need to be replaced one is located near the

coil which I assume s standard length.

The other is the outermost stud for the alternator bracket

The kit only includes one stud. I will need 2 oversized studs and the Alternator one must be a longer in addition to a larger diameter

How can I get a second longer oversized stud for the alternator bracket?


Thank you much appreciated

Art

[ArtJ]

I viewed the MMI video on the stud replacement kit. The kit stud is fully threaded and very long so t can be cut to any required length.
The only remaining question is how get a second repair stud?

Best Art

[Mo]

Hi Art
I'm going to send you a PM.

[ArtJ]

Mo
I don't have pm enabled


Best Art

[ArtJ]

I found the replacement studs on line and ordered 2 studs.
I already have a 7/16 14 tap and a full set of drlls.
I plan to tape off the taps and drills to avoid going beyond depth.

Both of these studs are on the non manifold side of the engine
therefore depth of drilling tapping should not be as critical as the manifold
side.

Some after thoughts
Because I could not find a torque spec for the studs I assumed (incorrectly?)
that the tighter the better and used a 20 inch socket extension and
gave them nearly my full strength. Was this a mistake? I note that
the MMI video only lightly tightens the stud relying on JB weld to take
up the rest of the strain. It is also becoming winter here and the
temps have not been conducive to normal setting time for JB.

If any studs went completely thru the stud hole did they do any harm and
is that area part of the water jacket - I assume t is not the oil area??

Best Art

[ArtJ]

I found the replacement studs on line and ordered 2 studs.
I already have a 7/16 14 tap and a full set of drlls.
I plan to tape off the taps and drills to avoid going beyond depth.

Both of these studs are on the non manifold side of the engine
therefore depth of drilling tapping should not be as critical as the manifold
side.

Some after thoughts
Because I could not find a torque spec for the studs I assumed (incorrectly?)
that the tighter the better and used a 20 inch socket extension and
gave them nearly my full strength. Was this a mistake? I note that
the MMI video only lightly tightens the stud relying on JB weld to take
up the rest of the strain. It is also becoming winter here and the
temps have not been conducive to normal setting time for JB.

If any studs went completely thru the stud hole did they do any harm and
is that area part of the water jacket - I assume t is not the oil area??

Best Art

Per Don Moyer: Quote

"Step 9 on page P1-3 in our MMI Service and Overhaul Manual says to seat head studs only until the top of the threads on the stud just start to disappear into the block and then go only ½ turn more. All studs go into the top of the main water jacket except for the one stud that intercepts one of the coil retaining bolts. There is no particular harm caused to the bottom of the studs by having them enter the water jacket . However, seating the studs below the top threads on the stud will remove some of the upper threads in the block and weaken the seating strength of the stud."

[ArtJ]

Just got the repair studs now I was happy that they take 3/8 fine head nuts

instructions
I followed Don Moyer's helpful Video and advice on replacing studs

I found that the 7/16 drill bit was too big a step from 3/8 head hole so I used 2 interium drill sizes

to get finally there. the 7/16 tap went well

Did drilling and tapping in accordance with the instructions being careful
not to drill too deep at Manifold or near coil area ( my studs were in a safe location) . Going to wait a few days for JB to set in this clmate before torqueing them.


Best Art

Best

[ArtJ]

My instinct is to only torque the two studs and leave the rest alone.

I would start at 25 wait then later 30 still later 35 . These studs have full 6 new strong threads all the way thru

so there shouldn't be any problem with them holding especially after jb weld sets.

The reason not to mess with the others is not to create any possible more weak studs.

I understand the reluctance, but I think it will be fine if I do it gradually Just need to give

the gaskets a chance to settle in.

It is common to regularly redo the thermostat studs without issue.

If there was going to be a issue it would have already occurred with 2 loose studs

Just looked it up sequence of torqueing is to provide a even seal and avoid head permanent warping

in my case if this would have already occurred by 2 studs not tightening anyways

but also during useful life use they need to be evenly torqued to prevent warping over time and leaking gasket

I am now thinking I should apply some small 25 ? torque tomorrow (3 days after installing studs) rather than continuing to allow possible warping - there are now good threads. The waiting may be doing more possible (warping) damage than JB curing now only using jb as a sealant since have good threads now.

Just torqued them in stages both to 35 - the same as all the rest.

They held it fine

n a couple of days when warming, I wll run engine using antifreeze
recycling in a bucket. I will then retorque. If have time l will repeat the cycle 3 times. I am reluctant to acid flush now since sealants are new.
I did clean oval passages and have been keeping the engine in antifreeze
for over 10 years. I will acid flush in spring.

Best
Art

[ArtJ]

Ran the engine today in a bucket of 50/50 antifreeze. Engine started up immediately.

ran about 20 minutes till antifreeze in bucket got hot. The only minor issue noticed was

from minor seepage around thermostat gasket later added Permatex to gasket and reassembled it.

After cool down rechecked head nuts only very minor re-torque required.

Replaced alternator stud that was slightly too short added new JBWeld to stud threads re assembled and lightly torqued.

Put engine away till spring will continue to check torque a couple more times then and do a acid flush. rinse out and add antifreeze.


Best Art

[Mo]

Yes, I'd definitively wait until spring before acid wash. When I do an acid wash I run fresh water through (not recycled in a bucket) for about 20 minutes. Don't want any resemblance of acid sitting in a stowed engine for sure.

Seems like you did fine Art...good job.

[ArtJ]

Thanks Mo

I noticed a amount of wear as well as buildup in the head receptor for the thermostat

I scraped and cleaned up a little more added permatex to all mating surfaces and gasket.

I am thinking that this is what prevented a complete seal for t stat housing.

Stay safe all

Art

[ArtJ]

Further detail regarding thermostat seat .
The lip/ring/ seat in the head was completely worn thru for approximately 1/2 inch.
As mentioned I coated all surfaces with permatex, including the lip of the
bottom of the thermostat itself in hope of sealing the void.
In the spring I will know if this was sufficient, otherwise will need to rebuild
the seat with JB Weld.

Best Art