Impromptu Overhaul

[GregH]

After a busy start to the fall with some home renovations, it's time to get the engine stripped down and to the block shop for testing and measuring. This is the engjne fhat came with the boat and had a cracked oil pan. The used one in the boat currently I improperly winterized and it cracked just above the water jacket access plate. I'll be using the oil pan from that one on this rebuild.

The Moyer manual has been very helpful and I am learning a lot about engine parts!

Of course the first bolt to shear off is the hardest to take. One of the accessory drive bolts. Had two more shear on the water jacket cover. Planning on putting studs in for the rebuild.

How does one access the crank journal nuts under the oil filter? I can't fit a socket for a breaker bar in there and the spanner isn't long enough.

[Al Schober]

That oil screen (not really a filter, it only keeps out the lumps) is on 1/8" NPT fittings. Unscrew it and take it off.

[GregH]

That oil screen (not really a filter, it only keeps out the lumps) is on 1/8" NPT fittings. Unscrew it and take it off.

The screen portion itself unscrews?

[jcwright]

Greg,

Here is a page from the A4 parts catalog showing the oil screen and how it is attached. Avoid the mistake I made of reaching for a 'bigger hammer' for this job. I broke the street elbow where it meets the main bearing cap.

jack.

[GregH]

Greg,

Here is a page from the A4 parts catalog showing the oil screen and how it is attached. Avoid the mistake I made of reaching for a 'bigger hammer' for this job. I broke the street elbow where it meets the main bearing cap.

jack.

thanks for the heads up ( as I gently lay the hammer back down...)! Was your intention to have it unscrew at part #17 on the diagram?

Do you know why there is a spring?

[Al Schober]

The screen itself is like a sock over an internal frame. The pipe threads are in the internal frame. The spring (I think there's a washer too) holds the sock against the frame and sorta makes a seal.

[jcwright]

I was flying blind when I removed the oil screen assembly. I didn't have the Moyer manual or the parts catalog at that point. Mainly I was determined to reduce the weight of the engine so I could get it out of the boat, and I wanted to get at the crankshaft.

I've attached a photo of parts #17 & #18 in the earlier diagram. I *think* I was trying to rotate/unscrew the oil screen & frame assembly where it is attached to the nipple. In the process I applied too much force on the street elbow and sheared it off where it meets the main bearing cap (see top left of the photo).

IIRC, the spring you ask about presses the oil screen against the frame (#14).

Hope this helps.

Jack.

[GregH]

The screen and fixture unscrewed with no fuss or persuasion. Thanks folks !

Now... took the idler gear off easily enough but how does one remove the post it's on ? Does this require the stud removing tool?

[jcwright]

Check out the tool Moyer made for this (description from catalog is below). Also note the warning about pounding the spindle out.

J.

Idler gear spindle puller
This tool is used to pull the idler gear spindle from the block without having to pound the spindle out from behind and risk breaking the block casting. Be sure to remove both of the ¼-20 Allen-headed set screws from below the spindle before attempting to pull the spindle.

[GregH]

Check out the tool Moyer made for this (description from catalog is below). Also note the warning about pounding the spindle out.

J.

Ordered! - now to wait.. being up here in Canada...

it's always a nice chat with Ken!

[GregH]

Be sure to remove both of the ¼-20 Allen-headed set screws from below the spindle before attempting to pull the spindle.

Where are these set screws? Im not finding them

[jcwright]

In your second photo, did you check in the hole directly "above" the spindle? Has this engine been rebuilt before?

[GregH]

In your second photo, did you check in the hole directly "above" the spindle? Has this engine been rebuilt before?

The hole circled in read I'll have another look but didn't notice anything in there last night. The hole with the green arrow is for a stud.

I'll try and have another look at the old parts manual as well to see if the helps. The exploded diagram for this spindle and gear don't show any set screws itself.

No idea if this engine has ever been rebuilt but if it was they totally missed the valves or poorly ran the engine - they have over an 1/8" of carbon buildup under the heads!

[jcwright]

Hello again Greg.

Yes, I was referring to the smaller hole, not the one for the stud.

I also checked the parts manual last night. I wasn't able to find the set screws either on the page that shows the spindle or anywhere else. This reminds me of a much earlier post by Don Moyer where he describes the set screws as a 'booby trap'.

The only other suggestions that come to mind are to get plenty of light down that hole and if necessary clean it out.

Best of luck.

J.

[W2ET]

Jack:

I couldn't find them either. I did find a part number, but they didn't appear in the exploded view.

The description in the online catalog says this:

Idler gear spindle puller
This tool is used to pull the idler gear spindle from the block without having to pound the spindle out from behind and risk breaking the block casting. Be sure to remove both of the ¼-20 Allen-headed set screws from below the spindle before attempting to pull the spindle.

You would think they shouldn't be hard to find, given the size. Maybe Jerry has a pic which will help.

Bill