Strong gas fumes after minor haulout joltng

[romantic comedy]

It would make the most sense to fix the leak. If it is the carb or some other thing.

[amizerin]

I had a similar problem last season when I topped up the tank up to the cap after the boat was taken out of the water. Never had even a slight gas odor during the season.

Here was my way of thinking when troubleshooting the issue.

Since it was not a problem until I topped up the tank most likely the leak was somewhere is hose between the deck fill and the tank or in the joint. The latter was more likely as rubber hose joints tend to start leaking just a little bit if stay dry for extended period of time. I'm seeing that with my other gas engine tools.

Also, the previous owner mentioned that he relocated the deck fill hole. Apparently, he never tested if the joint was tight.
So, I tighten the joint as much as I could. Also, I try to not fill up to the very top since then. The problem disappeared and never happened again.

[JOHN COOKSON]

When I used to overfill my tank so much that gas came out the vent tube (dumb) I would smell gas. Not to strong but it was there. After I ran the engine for short while the smell would go away.
I finally put 2 +2 together and removed the vent tubing. It was made out of some sort of cheap rubber. I couldn't see any evidence of deterioration. None the less I replaced the vent tube with ethanol rated tubing and quite overfilling. No more gas smell.

ex TRUE GRIT

[sastanley]

Art, I am going to guess the gasket at the top got immersed with fuel when the boat was tipped aft on the trailer...when sitting level, splashing from normal boat movements did not allow fuel to leak. Good Find!

[ArtJ]

Thanks Guys

The fumes was resolved as gauge seep see earlier responses

We have a 8 month storage in NE standard practice is to completely fill for prevention of water in tank & phase separation along with adding MMO and stabilizer.

I have a Xantrex Gas Fume sensor Alarm which notifies but does not prevent stuck float or other leaks.

The solenoid was for general discussion of additional measures. A manual
shutoff near carb is for over nite and longer periods but is not practical
when starting and stopping fairly frequently.

Best to all

[joe_db]

Easily done without exotic engineering:

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Solenoid-Normally-Solid-U-S/dp/B00APDNPXG

However, consider that it is another potential failure point for reliable engine operation and frankly sounds like a work-around of the real problem, why is the fuel leaking in the first place? While a shut off solenoid valve will work, my advice is to deal with the problem directly.

You might want to read all the reviews before ordering that thing. It is NOT designed to be on for long time periods and gets very hot when used that way.

[edwardc]

Our 1977 Pearson 323 came with an OEM fuel cutoff solenoid built onto the top of the fuel pickup on the tank. I think the brand was fuel-trol (or something like that).

[GregH]

With my fuel tank above the engine I have an anti-siphon hose fitting on the tank. The suction of the fuel pump is enough to open the flow. When not running no flow possible (except the potential for what in the hose of course )

[romantic comedy]

A fun project would be to fabricate a manual fuel shut off valve that is operated by a bowden/choke cable from the cockpit. It might not be too hard to do. Probably one can be found with google.