Exhaust system size

[Kelly]

Older exhaust systems

Russ and 67-

Do you have some sort of mixing chamber after the copper jacketed section? You can see in my set-up that the gases are mixed with the cooling water in what I call the mixer (for lack of a better term) which is tucked up under the deck as high as possible above the water line. From there, it's a straight shot out the transom after about 4-5 feet.

I like this system as apart from the iron hot section, it's all copper. And, it seems highly unlikely that water could ever "back up" with this design.

[hanleyclifford]

Kelly - That is quite an elegant looking jacketed pipe (exchanger?) set up. Can you say what the ID of the inside and ouside components are? I like the early smooth 90 degreee turn and the next smooth 45. The mixer itself seems to be the last "turn" in the system. Since we have such similar boats you can see why I am particularly interested in your system. Regards, Hanley

[lat 64]

Kelly,
I don't have an extra water lift, just the jacketed pipe.
Here's a link to the thread in '08 where I posted a crude drawing and explanation.

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?p=11145#post11145

Mine works good. It is copper color but I don't know if that is real copper or not. I never investigated it. It must be a kings ransom to replace.

r.

[hanleyclifford]

Russ - I count 4(each) 90 degree bends at the end of your system. Can you say what material is used after the jacketed section and are the bends as harsh as they appear in the schematic? Regards, Hanley

[67c&ccorv]

Hi guys - here is a blueprint of mine from C&C. It shows a waterlift of some kind at the transom end but to tell the truth I have not found it on mine and my copper jacket exhaust is much longer than the one shown in the blueprint.

[lat 64]

Russ - I count 4(each) 90 degree bends at the end of your system. Can you say what material is used after the jacketed section and are the bends as harsh as they appear in the schematic? Regards, Hanley

I don't have a picture and I'm 700 miles away right now.
That last piece is a big cast bend that is not painted and not rusty at all. I think it is bronze. It's not standard stuff at all. I'm sure it would cost like hell nowadays. It just a high loop to keep the sea from getting in the boat.(water is bad for boats ya know)
I'll get a photo when I go down next month.
R.

[Dave Neptune]

Volador's exhaust.

Guys, I've been trying to attach a drawing of my exhaust and when I check the "prieview" it is huge! How do I reduce the image so I don't screw it up?

Anyone?

Dave Neptune

[lat 64]

I don't know what you have for software.
If you have a camera then you probably have a disc with some limited photo editing software. Fire it up and look for settings that are good for resizing for e-mail., that's what you want.
You could e-mail it and I'll copy it and resize it for you for now 'til you learn how.


Update: Right on Shawn

[sastanley]

quick & dirty!

lat64 - great idea creating an e-mail address with L/L coordinates! Be careful leaving that link active for too long though, as I think the Google bots search this forum and cache that stuff and then spammers can get it...may want to change it to all text similar to this: 64n147w at gmail dot com.

Dave, Another quick & Dirty answer - If you are using MS Windows, open it in "Paint" and choose Image>>Stretch/skew and then set both vertical & horizontal to some percentage (make them the same number!!) that makes it reasonable..(try 50%???) - Then save the file with a new name.

Eventually, you'll find a size that works.

I personally have a Microsoft Powertoy called "Image resizer" installed which allows me to right click on the file directly (right from the camera card) and re-size it to 1024 x 768 (or smaller).

Alternatively, I also have installed a free program called Paint.NET which is much more powerful than MS Paint, and has a resizing option built right in from the menu.

[Kelly]

jacketed pipe dimensions

Hanley,

I'll have to measure when I get back down to the boat. If I were to guess at the inner pipe diameter (hot section), I would say 1 1/4". I'll get back to you...

67,

As drawn in your schematic, our exhaust systems are nearly identical, with only small differences in the angled connections. It would be interesting to know if someone removed the mixer (riser?) from your setup. This would, I assume, as in Russ' example, eliminate almost all back pressure.

[67c&ccorv]

Hanley,

I'll have to measure when I get back down to the boat. If I were to guess at the inner pipe diameter (hot section), I would say 1 1/4". I'll get back to you...

67,

As drawn in your schematic, our exhaust systems are nearly identical, with only small differences in the angled connections. It would be interesting to know if someone removed the mixer (riser?) from your setup. This would, I assume, as in Russ' example, eliminate almost all back pressure.

This winter I plan to do maintainence in that area - once I pull off the insulation I will take some pictures. My copper-jacket exhaust extends almost to the rear of my cockpit - much longer than the blueprint.

There is a heck of a lot of water in it when I drain the thing for winter storage!

[lat 64]

I'll try to do the same next month. We can revive this thread then.
I need more pics of my boat anyway as I do a lot of planning from far away.

Russ

[hanleyclifford]

As this discussion moves on, (see also the thread "No more Fouled Plugs), I am beginning to form a hierarchy of system desirability in my mind. I believe it goes like this 1) jacket system, 2) the standpipe, and 3) the water lift. Is this thinking sound or all wet?

[ArtJ]

I think it is very difficult to put salt water into the engine by over cranking
with the standpipe system. I have never had to worry about this, although
I don't go out of my way to over crank it.


Art

[hanleyclifford]

Art - I certainly respect that feature of the standpipe but for me the overriding consideration is to minimize wasted engine energy. Regards, Hanley