Exhaust wrap kit

[ndutton]

Are we still talking about hot sections? If yes, why the drip? There shouldn't be ANY water or liquid of any kind in the hot section so nothing to drip.

[hanleyclifford]

In my case the orientation just doesn't work. On one fitting, fully tightened is about 90 degrees past where the pipe is correctly aligned so more than a drip is involved. There are two other fittings that also leak but not as badly.

I need to consider a second best solution: a thread sealant. Most sealants available at retail are rated to about 400 degrees. I expect what will happen is that the sealant will hold back any leaking while corrosion takes its course and fills in the gaps. If I've got that right, then I should be good to go.

Alternatives are to shop around for piping that I can align or to use something like JB Weld.

Any comments or suggestions are appreciated.

Consider buying a pipe tap. Just a small increase in thread depth can change the "locked" orientation in a hurry.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Are we still talking about hot sections? If yes, why the drip? There shouldn't be ANY water or liquid of any kind in the hot section so nothing to drip.

+1 on this.
Be careful of leaking exhaust systems and carbon monoxide poisoning.
If you are desperate I think TFP paste is good to 700 degrees. Available at your local hardware store.

TRUE GRIT

[jimmoser]

Exhaust Hot Section Temperature

I'll wind this up so others can make what they will from this thread.

I ended up going with Permatex Copper. This is not a sealant but a gasket- making paste--comes in a tube. It is rated to 700 degrees (F) intermittent which is about 300 degrees higher than any of the permatex sealant products I found.

It did seal the gaps but as was suggested in several comments it smoked quite a bit. I've run the engine now for about an hour and a half so I could burn off the stuff before going out.

I think my approach is right for anyone who has a severe alignment problem. Others suggested that no sealant was necessary because any gaps would seal themselves in time. Probably true, I just wasn't sure how long that might be so I went with the permatex figuring that a sealant would handle the leak until the rust built up.

[sastanley]

Jim...I've used Permatex #1 (dark brown stuff) for my hot section and it has performed well. Glad you found something that worked. You never know when someone may google search later on and following up always helps.

[Ball Racing]

If you have a big enough leak, chances are no sealant can hold it back, because the exhaust pressure is greater than the ability for a sticky substance to stay put.

[b.johnston]

From Canada Eh!

When I rebuilt my hot section this week I used MASTERS® METALLIC COMPOUND by G. F. Thompson Co. Ltd., Newmarket, Ontario, Canada.

It's rated for 550 degrees F and 6000psi, unofficially its been used for steam way past 550.

I also used it as never-seize/lock-tite on my cradle bolts today, the nut won't free spin off and will undo next spring.

Last year the can cost ~$40cdn and should last ~50 years at my rate of use.

Bruce

[Fstued]

how high is the riser does the discharge need to be lower than the engine side

[joe_db]

My riser goes up 5 inches (I think...might be 4 or 6), does a 180 degree turn, and then goes back down the same distance. You want the riser as high as possible and the other end as low as possible * as long as it is still higher/even with the water lift*. You do NOT want it to have any upward slope between riser and water lift at all.

[edwardc]

I remember reading somewhere that the water injection point should be at least 3-4 inches below the lowest part of the high loop. More is better. This is to prevent backward migration of moisture via splashing.