Impromptu Overhaul

[GregH]

Fired up the engine today

- When you think you've placed the ignition wires in the correct order, check again. Then one more time.

- water temp gauge not reading but not surprising as currently cannot run engine long enough for the water to get hot

- small trickle of water from under the thermostat housing

- engine seems to "idle" about 1200 rpm on the tach. Need to check settings on the tach

- No oil pressure.
- checked the sender and its resistance is correct at about 240ohms.
- grounded the sending wire and the gauge pegs max.
- took the sender out of the block and cranked the engine. Oil comes out .. blurb...blurb. not sure if supposed to spurt out with more pressure?
- adjusted the oil regulator in more to see if any difference but nothing.

Thoughts on the oil pressure ?
- go get a mechanical gauge?
- is it time to remove the oil pan and check for missing plugs?

[Dave Neptune]

Greg, get a cheap mechanical gage. Running for much time without oil pressure will kill the bearings. No oil pressure and it will be time to check for a "left out galley plug". An easy fix just a PIA to tear down to get to them. There is one under the valve train cover behind the valves on "some engines" so check there first.
Cranking the engine without the plugs should yield a bit of pressure that should show on the gage, if not get your wrenches back out.

Dave Neptune

[GregH]

Greg, get a cheap mechanical gage. Running for much time without oil pressure will kill the bearings. No oil pressure and it will be time to check for a "left out galley plug". An easy fix just a PIA to tear down to get to them. There is one under the valve train cover behind the valves on "some engines" so check there first.
Cranking the engine without the plugs should yield a bit of pressure that should show on the gage, if not get your wrenches back out.

Dave Neptune

Cheap mechanical oil gauge didn't twitch.

Dropping the oil pan! Hoping I can leave it on the rolling cart and "just undo" the pan bolts (and 'flywheel'), then hoist the block high enough to check....

[sastanley]

Greg, I am kinda at the same stage in running my project engine to see if I need to do rings/replace the head gasket, etc. My mech gauge mounted on a short pipe in the oil pressure hole jumps all the way from zero to to pegged at 80 while cranking..i did the same, as you, removed and cranked, and I get oil to bloop out, but I have not tried to start yet, I was just checking compression. If you have oil pressure, I'd think you'd see oil bouncing around in the valve train (with the cover off) when running. Also when running, the gauge should level out (I'd hope!)

Also, if you have trouble idling down when tuning, try removing the PCV valve. I installed it the first summer I had the boat, but have since removed it and deal with the smoke on my old motor because I couldn't get it to idle reliably. It solves the smoke problem, but introduces other compromises to engine tune. Hopefully, with your rebuilt engine and correctly placed slash tube, you won't need the PCV valve?

P.S.> I don't know what your plan is for cooling, but my plan is to have a 5 gal bucket and have it recirculate with maybe a garden hose feeding the bucket to cycle in some fresh water, and let it overflow down the driveway...haven't thought that far ahead yet.

P.P.S > Going back and reviewing the spring pics, I like a lot of the mods you've done to the motor (Thatch, etc.) - I also like the studs in side and valve cover plates. Why not fabricate (or buy) the updated Moyer alternator bracket to spread the load on the side plate? That was the first place I found leaks on my original motor, and it was bad enough the PO had already upsized the bolt, exacerbating the issue. Lots easier to do in the driveway and never have to worry about it. I am also going to cut up one of my spare fuel pumps and remove the cup with the bale. I think you can tap directly into the top (middle) of the fuel pump then you only have the diaprahgm to worry about, and since we all (should be) running a better filter than the 'water bowl', it should be another good mod. Someone on here mentioned trying it years ago, but I haven't tested one myself yet. I want to chop up a crusty pump first...

[GregH]

Was able to delve into the oil plug situation a little last night. The results are below.

[GregH]

Greg, I am kinda at the same stage in running my project engine to see if I need to do rings/replace the head gasket, etc. My mech gauge mounted on a short pipe in the oil pressure hole jumps all the way from zero to to pegged at 80 while cranking..i did the same, as you, removed and cranked, and I get oil to bloop out, but I have not tried to start yet, I was just checking compression. If you have oil pressure, I'd think you'd see oil bouncing around in the valve train (with the cover off) when running. Also when running, the gauge should level out (I'd hope!)

Also, if you have trouble idling down when tuning, try removing the PCV valve. I installed it the first summer I had the boat, but have since removed it and deal with the smoke on my old motor because I couldn't get it to idle reliably. It solves the smoke problem, but introduces other compromises to engine tune. Hopefully, with your rebuilt engine and correctly placed slash tube, you won't need the PCV valve?

P.S.> I don't know what your plan is for cooling, but my plan is to have a 5 gal bucket and have it recirculate with maybe a garden hose feeding the bucket to cycle in some fresh water, and let it overflow down the driveway...haven't thought that far ahead yet.

P.P.S > Going back and reviewing the spring pics, I like a lot of the mods you've done to the motor (Thatch, etc.) - I also like the studs in side and valve cover plates. Why not fabricate (or buy) the updated Moyer alternator bracket to spread the load on the side plate? That was the first place I found leaks on my original motor, and it was bad enough the PO had already upsized the bolt, exacerbating the issue. Lots easier to do in the driveway and never have to worry about it. I am also going to cut up one of my spare fuel pumps and remove the cup with the bale. I think you can tap directly into the top (middle) of the fuel pump then you only have the diaprahgm to worry about, and since we all (should be) running a better filter than the 'water bowl', it should be another good mod. Someone on here mentioned trying it years ago, but I haven't tested one myself yet. I want to chop up a crusty pump first...

- I didn't even get a burp out of the oil pressure gauge when cranking or running on both the electrical and mechanical gauge. Maybe someone can confirm that with the mechanical gauge, does one need to bleed the hose or not worry about the air in there? I have read in a couple places online that it does not matter - but that was online....

I'll keep the PCV valve in mind down the road. The Distributor was set enough to run the engine, but it definitely was not adjusted for best idle yet and that could also be an issue with the RPMs I think.

I am using a big rough tote for the water and the hose on just enough to keep the water level constant. Exhaust water just flows down the driveway. But I might try and recirculate it if it can help show the water temp gauge working.

Hadn't thought about the alternator bracket honestly.

I run a Racor filter for the fuel.

I'll flush this out more when I have a break at work

[GregH]

Ok... of the three oil galley plugs, the one on the bottom of the block is, of course the one missed. I cannot find the missing plug anywhere in my rebuild area of course.

Can I use generic brass 1/8npt plugs?

Such as from here?

[edwardc]

Since this is an oil passage, brass is probably ok, but I would prefer to see bronze or stainless in a marine environment. Check McMaster-Carr. They have it in stainless.

[GregH]

Since this is an oil passage, brass is probably ok, but I would prefer to see bronze or stainless in a marine environment. Check McMaster-Carr. They have it in stainless.

One of them is stainless but the other looks to be brass, as well as the ones in the old block (which I cannot get out).

Mc-C will not ship to me in Canada unless it is a bulk order. I'll look locally for Stainless.

[edwardc]

These on Amazon, ships overnight!

https://www.amazon.com/Horiznext-Male-Threaded-Stainless-Steel/dp/B07X3W5F3X/ref=sr_1_14?crid=2OFAE390YFDG7&keywords=1%2F8+npt+pipe+plug&qid=1650634432&sprefix=1%2F8+npt+pipe+plug%2Caps%2C68&sr=8-14

https://www.amazon.com/Internal-Hexagonal-countersunk-Stainless-CEKER/dp/B07WZLB2YM/ref=sr_1_16?crid=2OFAE390YFDG7&keywords=1%2F8+npt+pipe+plug&qid=1650634794&sprefix=1%2F8+npt+pipe+plug%2Caps%2C68&sr=8-16

[GregH]

These on Amazon, ships overnight!

https://www.amazon.com/Horiznext-Male-Threaded-Stainless-Steel/dp/B07X3W5F3X/ref=sr_1_14?crid=2OFAE390YFDG7&keywords=1%2F8+npt+pipe+plug&qid=1650634432&sprefix=1%2F8+npt+pipe+plug%2Caps%2C68&sr=8-14

https://www.amazon.com/Internal-Hexa...s%2C68&sr=8-16

Thanks for the links. Being up in Great Lakes and since our host sells the brass version, I went in that direction and picked some up last evening. Installing tonight and trying again!

[GregH]

So I have oil pressure now. At the default setting I'm getting about 25-30psi with cold engine.

Of course the issue I now have is I cannot get it to idle under 1200 rpm.

-The dizzy with points and is set up and positioned as per the manual.
- the carb was cleaned during rebuild and the air/fuel screw is 1-1/2 -turns out from all the way in
- the idle for the throttle is as "low" as it can go and not have the engine die.
- Read the manual and searched on here for others with the issue.

Not having any success.

Is there a guide, or sequence of steps people have come up with that have experienced this.?

[ndutton]

Thanks to Thatch several years ago I learned that precise timing has a dramatic effect on the ability to maintain a low idle.

https://www.moyermarineforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=108158

[edwardc]

I agree. Try dialing your timing back a bit.

[GregH]

I agree. Try dialing your timing back a bit.

Thanks for that folks
I'll work on that and will do another cleaning of the carb this evening just to make sure.