Engine won't start

[ndutton]

We may be talking about the same thing but maybe not. With the spark plug wires unchanged yet, when the #1 cylinder is at TDC (top of compression stroke, not top of exhaust stroke), lift the distributor cap and report which distributor post the rotor points to. That is, the post it points to has the spark plug wire going to which cylinder?

[idreamOfSailing]

I see what you mean now. Mine is electronic ignition and I have never opened it so would removing the distributor cap tell me the same story as for a non-electronic system?

[ndutton]

Yes, both have rotors.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Hi Dutton. Thanks for yuor response. to . Do I understand correctly?

I don't think you do.
You need to do what Neil said - verify the position of the rotor when #1 is at TDC compression.
If you change the position of the wires on the distributor cap, without rotating the distributor, and keep the same firing order, the spark will occur at the wrong time even though the firing order is correct.
Maybe I am not visualizing this correctly?

ex TRUE GRIT

[idreamOfSailing]

I get it. I need to see which post the rotor inside the distributor is pointing to when the true number-1 cylinder is at TDC. That post will be my new number 1 and the rest follow suite. Now, does the rotor spin clock-wise or anti like the flywheel?

[Peter]

I get it. I need to see which post the rotor inside the distributor is pointing to when the true number-1 cylinder is at TDC. That post will be my new number 1 and the rest follow suite. Now, does the rotor spin clock-wise or anti like the flywheel?

It goes clockwise

Peter

[ndutton]

I get it. I need to see which post the rotor inside the distributor is pointing to when the true number-1 cylinder is at TDC. That post will be my new number 1 and the rest follow suit

Yes, exactly.

[idreamOfSailing]

Thanks everyone. Like MightyMike who started this thread, the issue is I cannot get her to start after a carb rebuild so I have been following this thread with great interest. I pretty sure I'm getting gas to the carb as the fuel pump works and the plugs smell gassy so for that reason I'm moving on to checking for spark and compression (I'm thinking the latter is okay as she ran fine before the carb rebuild and don't see why that would change), and will test back from the plugs to the coil. That's why I'm thinking ahead about timing as well, if there's no issue with spark then that has to be the reason. Does this sound like reasonable logic?

[ndutton]

. . . . . . the issue is I cannot get her to start after a carb rebuild . . . . . . I'm thinking ahead about timing as well, if there's no issue with spark then that has to be the reason. Does this sound like reasonable logic?

No, not to me. The engine ran, you rebuilt the carb and now the engine doesn't run. The logical place to start is with the only thing that was touched since it last ran - the carburetor. This assumes there has been no change or manipulation of the ignition system since it last ran. If there has you may be dealing with multiple issues.
Q1: is there fuel in the carburetor bowl, yes or no?
Q2: is the idle air adjustment screw pre set at the default position, 1½ turns off the seat?
Q3: is the choke closing fully?
Q4: are the carburetor halves seated together properly?
Q5: is the carburetor properly mounted to the manifold flange?
Q6: have you kept the raw water intake thru-hull closed during no-start cranking?

edit: here's a brief thread from 10 years ago:

https://www.moyermarineforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4288

[idreamOfSailing]

I had it "professionally" rebuilt so assuming it was done correctly.

Q1: is there fuel in the carburetor bowl, yes or no? How do I check for that?
Q2: is the idle air adjustment screw pre set at the default position, 1½ turns off the seat? I will check that. I assume the default position is screwed in all the way?
Q3: is the choke closing fully? Yes.
Q4: are the carburetor halves seated together properly? Looks okay.
Q5: is the carburetor properly mounted to the manifold flange? Looks okay.
Q6: have you kept the raw water intake thru-hull closed during no-start cranking? She's on the hard so no need?

[ndutton]

Q1: the easy way to check for fuel in the bowl is to remove the main passage plug on the bottom of the carb and see if fuel dribbles out.
Q2: the idle air mixture screw default position is 1½ turns off the seat
Q3: (choke position) how do you know? To confirm, the choke plate must be visually inspected with the backfire flame arrestor removed.
Q's 4,5&6: good

Q7: do you have a Moyer Marine manual? Somehow I'm thinking not. Everything we are discussing is covered in detail in Chapter 4 including pictures. You also might consider the Moyer Marine carburetor video, perhaps their ignition video too. There's an impressive quantity and quality of information available from Moyer resources.

[idreamOfSailing]

I know the choke functions correctly because I did that myself, ordering the replacement cable from moyer then checking through the hole where the flame arrestor goes when installing it.

You are right, I don't have a manual though I have scoured the net for videos, which I find more helpful than pictures.

Then of course there's this forum which has so far been very patient.

If removing the carburetor isn't that difficult (it's really tight on the boat and half the time I'm working blind, feeling where bolts and such are or working with the aid of a mirror) then I may remove it personally to verify the work done. But first I will try adjusting screw settings and checking for ignition problems as mentioned before. I want to be certain it's not the carb before I try to remove it.

[Dave Neptune]

Try a bit of "motor crack" (starting fluid). Give the throat of the carb a spritz and then try starting. If she kicks a tries you have a carb problem if she just turns over you have a spark problem.

I'd also give the plugs a look. They may have some fuel on them but you need to look to see if there are any water droplets from excessive cranking the cylinders being wet is the problem. It does not take much moisture at all!!!!

Dave Neptune

[idreamOfSailing]

Success! I checked that the carb is getting gas by removing the plug at the bottom-back and adjusted both the fuel mix and idle screws as directed. Then tried to start. It didn't at first, trying several times and the last time I thought it sounded like she was about to go, so I tried one more time and vroom off she went. Hopefully it's not a one-time event!

Was draining the carb and adjusting the screws all it needed? Anyway, I was able to run a bucket of anti-freeze through her and spray the carb with fogging oil (you need to do all that here up north in Toronto, Ontario).

I still want to go through the exercise of checking spark and timing since it's good to know how to do that but at least I know she CAN start and run. And over winter I may just well remove the carb and refit it as well, again just to know how to do that. Thanks so much to all who contributed!

[Ando]

As my friend would say, “woo-hoo” :)