Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Neptune
Jonathan, that pic shows a set of 2 different blocks. Either that or it has been assembled without the guide pins in place.
Once a block has been cast and the "flat surface" machining has been done, the pins installed and everything torqued up THEN the "boring" begins so the pieces match perfectly. I can see that not even the machining marks match and they should. Be very careful. What is the pic of?
Another point for "rebuilding", how are you going to clean out the abrasive material from your honing? And how are you protecting the assembled rotating assembly? Another be careful.
Dave Neptune
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Sorry if I glossed over the explanation since that picture is seemingly the key to the post-rebuild low oil pressure mystery/debacle that destroyed a perfectly good (new) crankshaft and cost me an additional $1000 (and counting). The picture in post #103 is a closeup of the front face of the front main bearing cap/engine block interface. The mismatched bevels and textures between the upper half (cap) and lower half (block) is due to my (very, very ill-advised) using main bearing caps from a different block (not the originals mated to the engine)
There’s been some recent doings with the engine. I’ll update the thread when I get my laptop back from the repair shop hopefully later this week. Hmmmm, on second thought, I’m starting to see a theme here. Maybe I should just stop repairing lost causes and just bite the bullet to buy new....
Nah. Way too easy. To be continued....