Looking for Late Model Manifold

[RobH2]

Well, I've gotten pretty far off topic here. Sorry moderators. I'll wrap this up.

I put the new manifold on today. I did what all good boys are supposed to do when faced with a new mechanical task that you haven't done and has lots of unknowns and went to Harbor Freight and bought things...lol... specifically, I bought a Bauer 3/8 inch impact wrench for $100.

That sucker pulled the bolts right off of my flange and manifold. The front bolt nearest the flywheel was so rusted that the nut was sheeting off. I had no idea what might happen. I actually used a hammer and drove a smaller socket onto it to get some grab and the impact hammer went to work. It worked too well as the rod twisted off and came out with the nut.

Now I was faced with using a bolt extractor to get the tip that was left in the block. In a spot with limited space I couldn't get the pilot bit into the hole at a 90-degree angle. "Crap," I thought. So I stuck a sharp pick into the hole to see how deep the lingering bolt that twisted off was. To my surprise, the hole was nearly clean and as it gently pushed in, the pick went in and water started draining out. I guess that bolt had corroded completely away.

So, I dressed that hole with a tap and got some stainless all-thread and screwed it in. I hope that the fact water came out is not a massive problem. I'm assuming that would be normal. But, I don't know.

Anyway, I got the manifold back on and torqued the 3 main bolts to 20lbs like I read on the site. Tomorrow I'll connect everything else. But all in all, it was not too bad of a task. I'm sooooo glad I bought that torque wrench. It was amazing and now I have one so that's not bad either. I should have bought it when I was removing the rear oil seal bolts. It would have saved the years of my life I lost on that job.

Lest you think that I abuse my engine and don't take care of it, I actually do. I don't know how I let my manifold get that far without noticing. I'm a little embarrassed about that. Anyway, the new one should last me a good long time and I'll keep a better eye on it. Thanks for the encouragement.

Rob

[ronstory]

Congrats on job well done! As for the electric impact drivers, they are simply awesome. I was always partial to the pneumatic versions, but these new lithium battery powered are nearly just as good.

I have a Ryobi that I just keep on the boat now. I really feel that just showing the impact driver to the stubborn bolt makes it just give up.

[Dave Neptune]

Caution

Ron, lock washers should not be used on studs or bolts going into a water jacket or oil galley. The liquid will move up the threads and leak out of the gap in the lock washer, use flat washers for a "seal". In some cases a "star-lock" can be used, however I have not had a problem with a properly torqued flat washer ever coming loose.

RobH2, nice work and perseverance while contorted.

Dave Neptune

[RobH2]

Thanks Ron and Dave for the encouragement and the advice.

Job finished. I went the extra mile. That nice new manifold made my head look sad so I made everyone happy. It was a lot of work for just one weekend but it's done and I feel good about it. See my updated photo mosaic.

Till next time...

[Dave Neptune]

Excellent! Looks good too.

Dave Neptune

[ronstory]

Ron, lock washers should not be used on studs or bolts going into a water jacket or oil galley. The liquid will move up the threads and leak out of the gap in the lock washer, use flat washers for a "seal". In some cases a "star-lock" can be used, however I have not had a problem with a properly torqued flat washer ever coming loose.

RobH2, nice work and perseverance while contorted.

Dave Neptune

Dave--

My comment above regard lock washers was related to exhaust flange only. With a healthy manifold, the studs should do not penetrate the coolant passage. However, I had a "special" manifold that came with all-thread as a stud and nut on the *inside* of the passage. (sigh)

I should have just thrown it away, but tried to save $400... when I had already spend $3k on parts and machining. Penny wise, Dollar foolish.

Agree on the flat washers for rest of fasteners with liquid penetration... just not the exhaust flange.

[TimBSmith]

Clarification on flange bolts and washers please...

Re reading this. I have not used studs yet for flange, I am using bolts and the PO has lock washers with gaps on both bolts. Interestingly, before the winter break, on last engine run after new hot section install, I had been troubleshooting wispy exhaust leak(tough to isolate) that is near the starboard side flange bolt head. I now wonder if the lock washer is one of the problems. I have tightened bolts and hot section assembly, did not run after adjustments. This is what it looked like before winterized. Best viewed high def at .25 speed. :12 best freeze point.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Fe51MqVN7p7DgJSw7

p.s.
I also had a slight water droplet above the injection point. Was able to adjust both the nipple going into the flange, and the nipple going into the injection point- will be testing as soon as I de-winterize engine.

[joematrix1013]

$3500 for the whol kit and kaboodle

I'm looking for a a Late Model A4 Manifold that's in pretty good shape. Mine is showing some significant external flaking and it's only a matter of time.

Before buying a new one I'd like to try to find a used one.

$3500.00 (motor-wiring-controls-gauges-3 solar panels-2 batteries-exhaust-fuel tank)

My A4 is still in my 1977 Pearson 28 currently. My P28 is in the water at River City Marina in Chicago. I have lived aboard for over 4 years. Due to Covid, I got stranded on the river without a chance to get her out on the lake as I usually do during the summer. I confess I neglected to run the motor periodically throughout the summer. I was involved in a number of repairs and since I was dock-locked for the summer, running the motor in was the last thing on my mind. I know better.
> When I winterized the motor this last fall, it was rough running. Since I planned to repower this year anyway, I didn't address and servicing. I can report that in the 4 years that I have owned the sailboat, I have not had any issues with the motor. I sail into and off of my mooring can. So, I rarely go through a tank of gas in a season. However, since the boat stays in the water year-round, I motor 10 miles up the river in the Spring, and 10 miles down in the Fall. These "bridge runs", as they are lovingly referred to, can take up to 6 hours. Forward, reverse, full power, and sipping gas. It can be a real test of a motor's ability, and I have never had an issue. The motor runs at hull speed at 180 deg, no smoking...ect. I believe that the motor is original, so 1977.
> I am repowering to electric, so I will include the fuel tank, gauges, controls, wiring....complete.
> I hope to be granted permission to haul-out at 31st street harbor in Chicago this Spring. If I do get permission, we can arrange to part ways with the motor at the harbor. If I do not get the chance to haul-out, we can plan to make the transfer at River City Marina.