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Old 01-31-2021, 08:37 PM
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Agree with the guys. It appears you need an oil pan. Still pretty cool where you are but in all honesty I've been working on my boat here in Halifax all winter. No one ever called me normal though.

Rust happens.

Just a few words of encouragement. Last Sept I had a head gasket go. When I went to torque down the head after installing the new gasket a couple of studs turned. Removed to find a rusted area near exhaust ports and the engine was pretty much done.

I had a spare in the garage that had been there 11 years. Out on a Friday and took the old one home. Changed over a few things to the new one, my reversing gear and a few smaller items, then put the spare in the boat the following Monday. Started installation at 10 am and was up and running by 14:30.

I'll try and give you a few pointers to make your job easy.

1. Leave your exhaust intact on the boat if you have the room. Let go the 3 exhaust bolts on the exhaust manifold. Gently slide it off and zip tie it to something on the bulkhead off to the side. By being able to do this it saves you much time dealing with an exhaust and the manifold gasket usually is in perfect shape after removal...so you might not even need a new one at all.

2. Take pictures of your wiring. Everything from the wiring around the alternator, grounds, wires to fuel pump etc...take pics of it all.

3 Take pics of your engine mounts, the angles they are on and how much thread is showing etc. I did that and micro measured the mounts that came out of the boat...I did exactly the same measurements on the new engine going into the boat and it fit in perfect. The prop shaft bolted right up and didn't even have a vibration when I fired it up...one shot, in perfect. You are putting the same engine back in so just make sure you don't mess with your mounts.

4 So you disconnect your wiring, disconnect grounds, might have to remove alternator or starter (some boats), pics of everything especially wires and their colors. I went as far as to label everything with painters tape and with a marker wrote where it went...had the pics as backup. Once everything is disconnected lift it and slide it forward. If your mast is on hook up a vang to in and you should get good help from that. Otherwise need a couple of strong upper body strength guys, one in behind to lift it off the mounts, might need a pry bar or two (if doing it without help of lifting device). Sounds more complicated than it is. Piece of plywood to slide it out on.

Once out remove the rear plate over the transmission and suck out oil. If you were able to lift in on a vang there is a plug on the front corner, right in the corner...take that out and the engine leans that way in the air anyway. All the oil can drain into a container.

Remove your pan and decide your plan of action. Take care when installing your gaskets on the new one. You can do this now, during winter if you can plug in a small Honeywell heater or something of the sort...like 1500 watts. On a cold day it will be bearable in the boat and once it's been on a couple of hours even the engine and your tools wont be cold to touch. If you need to lay in a lazarette etc put some cardboard down where you need to lay down there....it stops the heat draw from your body to the cold fiberglass while you work...you wouldn't believe the difference it makes until you do it. Difference between misery and tolerable. LOL

To see you have been down for a look at your boat tells me you might want this job done and out of the way. Good luck, hope what I threw in there helps you out.
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1976 C&C 30 MKI

The pessimist complains about the wind.
The optimist expects it to change.
The realist adjusts the sails.
...Sir William Arthur Ward.
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