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-   -   Bowen Island Paint Job (https://www.moyermarineforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5761)

Marty Levenson 09-26-2011 02:24 AM

Bowen Island Paint Job
 
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Hello,
I just bought a rebuilt A4 to replace our rusting 1967 A4. I want to go over her completely, strip and repaint as it has a poor paint job, and add fresh water cooling. The photo below is an old photo of our old A4...very rusty now, but expect I'll be able to rebuild her as well. Want to get her out of the boat so I can rewire and clean up the engine room.
Millions of questions! To start with I'm trying to figure out what year our new A4 might be. Has a MM head and MM manifold and was rebuilt in 2009 and then run only 4 hours.
Has a sheet metal flywheel cover, oil fill forward, has the little snap open oil fill box just forward of the water pump, has the big Delco distributor with points.

I like the cast iron cover so much better, as well as my old style starter. Could I swap over both....maybe need to swap flywheel as well? I'm out of my depth here, don't know if that is possible or a bad idea.

I put electronic ignition on my old, small Prestolite dist. Can I swap that over to the new A4 as well and replace the Delco?

Any reason not to make these changes (if I can)? Is the bigger style starter better?

Lots to sort out!

Thanks for any advice,
Marty (1967 T 27 Poseidon)

hanleyclifford 09-26-2011 09:01 AM

You've got a real "cobble job". New style head, early gearcase cover, late distributor, early starter and (obviously) early flywheel but with late flywheel housing. Somebody went to work. Oil fill forward suggests late block. Starters and flywheels, early and late, go together. If you don't already have one I suggest you get the Moyer Marine Overhaul and Service Manual available on this site.

jpian0923 09-26-2011 10:13 AM

I swapped my big Delco distributor out for the smaller Prestolite with EI over a year ago. It works and I have better alternator belt clearance.

sastanley 09-26-2011 10:38 AM

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Marty, the block date is stamped on the block behind the carb & just under the breather hole & valve cover.

Mine is 041976 - which I am pretty sure indicates April 19, 1976. Ignore the pretty 6 digit embossed number nearby.. I think it is some kind of casting number & is the same on lots of blocks.

Here is a dim picture where you can see the casting date just above the flame arrestor.

Marty Levenson 09-26-2011 10:39 AM

swaps from 1967 to rebuilt
 
Thank you for your replies. Just to be clear, the photo on post #1 is of my old (now rusty) 1967 A4.
Good to know I can swap distributor.
So, if I want to use my old cast iron flywheel cover I need to also swap:
flywheel
flywheel housing
starter
....is that correct?

...thanks!

jpian0923 09-26-2011 10:55 AM

I think bolt pattern is the same for the fly wheel covers. Not sure about starters though, but I suspect they are the same too.

Can you Put the two engines in the same room and check? :D

Marty Levenson 09-26-2011 11:00 AM

Serial numbers
 
I think it says 052379 on the block, above the carb...does that make any sense?
I removed the blue paint (who would paint that?) from the copper lubrication instruction plate on the transmission. Almost all the info is gone, but at the bottom can still read stamped UJ 74688. Probably an older tranny?

-Marty

Marty Levenson 09-26-2011 11:07 AM

flywheel cover + SN
 
Thanks Jim,

I was posting when your reply came in. Old A4 is on the boat (Vancouver). New A4 is on an engine stand here on Bowen Island.I'll bring home the old flywheel cover later this week and compare. So, Do the two types of starters need different flywheels?

So SN = block is May 23 1979?

Thanks!

hanleyclifford 09-26-2011 11:07 AM

You can definitely use your old cast iron flywheel housing with the early starter and flywheel. In some cases (mine for example) I use the new (Delco) starter and flywheel with the cast (early) housing. Don Moyer has a discussion of this in The Manual.

Marty Levenson 09-26-2011 11:09 AM

flyweel cvr
 
Thanks! Didn't know that was in the manual....I'll bring that home tonight.

jpian0923 09-26-2011 11:31 AM

yes, May 23 1979

Marian Claire 09-26-2011 11:47 AM

"I removed the blue paint (who would paint that?) from the copper lubrication instruction plate on the transmission. Almost all the info is gone, but at the bottom can still read stamped UJ 74688. Probably an older tranny?"

Based on my tranny/engine # 77414 your tranny is pre 1965. Dan S/V Marian Claire

sastanley 09-26-2011 11:59 AM

If it is late model Marty, the serial number itself is stamped right next to the oil fill, above the flywheel cover. If your stamp date is indeed 1979, your serial number may be over 200,000...one of the later blocks.

Marty Levenson 09-27-2011 12:34 PM

Starter question
 
1 Attachment(s)
Can anyone tell me if this is a match for the A4:

Replaces Part Numbers:

DELCO 1998310

OEM(s): Delco
Type: DD
Voltage: 12 Volts
Rotation: CW
Teeth/Splines: 9 Teeth/Splines

Thanks,
Marty

Marty Levenson 09-27-2011 03:20 PM

new starter
 
Well, on e-bay I found a company selling new, unused Delco starters for the A4. Spoke with them on the phone, and these starters are listed as replacements for #1107679. That number matches the Delco # on Robert Hess's site.

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/atomic4/atomic4specs.htm

There are more available: the e-bay item # is: 120691637753 Cost is $159.95 + shipping.

Hope that is useful to someone!

-Marty

lat 64 09-27-2011 05:38 PM

Not to forget that it should be sealed against any sparking gas fumes. Is it designed for marine use?

Marty Levenson 09-27-2011 06:11 PM

marine environment starter
 
Thanks for that Lat64,
....wasn't thinking about that aspect. I may need the Delco rubber solenoid gasket that MM sells. I'll disassemble new starter and compare to the one that came with the engine.
I have no reason to believe that the included starter is faulty (was told it was rebuilt in 2009), but couldn't pass up starting off with a fresh one....keep the old one for a spare....but too heavy to keep on the boat (even for me - I'm a maniac about spares: cruise with spare carb, coil, distributor guts, thermostat, fuel pump, Raycor filter...even my old 2 blade prop! That list doesn't include the normal tune-up stuff).

-Marty

Marty Levenson 10-10-2011 12:37 AM

tool for rust removal
 
Hey All - and happy Thanksgiving to any Canadians tuning in,

Wondering what is the best power tool for the major paint & rust removal. I have a 4.5" angle grinder, and wondering what style wire brush or whatever others have found best. Maybe a rougher and a courser? Drill attachments? I have a dremel tool for the less accessible areas, and wondering what the best attachments are for that, too. Lastly (for now!) solvents, rust removers?

Thanks in advance,
Marty

jpian0923 10-10-2011 12:57 AM

I use acetone then a bench mounted wire wheel/buffer. Get something that is durable. I mean, something that doesn't shed it's bristles into your face. I tried a wire wheel on my dremel and I got pummeled with wire.

Loki9 10-10-2011 08:41 AM

I used a wire wheel in a hand drill with good results.

Marty Levenson 10-30-2011 02:13 PM

oil pan
 
Just about to remove the oil pan. Flywheel housing, exhaust manifold are removed. Aft housing is still in place.

Part 1 is drop the pan with the engine upright (on an engine stand) to contain whatever is in there (oil is drained but I'm sure there's a bit more). Can anyone give me an idea how heavy that will be? Anything special I need to know?

Part 2 is clean up the pan, repaint.

Part 3 is turn the engine upside down to inspect and install a new gasket and old pan with new screws.

Any advice about the above and what to look for gratefully received!

Thanks,
Marty

Marian Claire 10-30-2011 02:28 PM

I am guessing based on hauling my oil pan around during rebuild. Say 25#s Dan S/V Marian Claire
You could call Ken at the parts # at Moyer and he should have a shipping weight.

jpian0923 10-30-2011 03:10 PM

Weight is 37lbs.

I removed mine when it was upside down. It's pinned in a couple of places. Might be easier upside down so you don't drop it when it finally brakes free.

Marty Levenson 10-30-2011 03:27 PM

which way up?
 
Thanks to both for the advice: I didn't know it was pinned! I do like the idea of keeping the pan upright so any old glop or metal bits don't drip back into the engine. I have no idea what's in there.

I think we'll put some safety straps around the pan and block in case it slips.

Pictures to follow...

jpian0923 10-30-2011 03:38 PM

You do make a good point about metal bits falling into engine if it is upside down. But, while she is open you'll probably clean up whatever you can reach though. Straps are a good idea. Also, make sure you pull it straight off to avoid ruining the oil pump screen.


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