Evaluating Atomic 4(Newbie)??
 

I have always had outboards but now looking @ boats with either diesel or atomic 4. I hear nice things about atomic 4 but concerned about getting an old engine. Will I always be able to get parts? If I get a bad engine and have to buy one is it difficult to install? If I am looking @ a atomic 4 how do I know if it is a good engine? Can I start the engine if the boat is on the hard? As you can tell , I am completely ignorant about inboard engines and would appreciate any advice

Dick,I'm attaching a short checklist of items to look for when buying an Atomic 4powered boat which should help you sort through some of the basics.

Don

Running on the hard
 

The short answer is: yes, you can run the A4 on the hard.
If you just want to see if the engine will start (eg., run for 10 seconds or less) then go ahead. Use the choke to get it started but always run it in NEUTRAL while on the hard. The reason for this is the cutlass bearing (gland prop shaft goes through exiting hull) relies on water for lubrication. No water, no lubrication and your cutlass bearing will wear down quickly and require replacing. Be aware that some transmissions will allow the shaft to spin a bit even in neutral, ours does.
To run on the hard for any longer duration you will need to set up a source of cooling water for the engine. This is also how you winterize the engine only drawing anti-freeze through. If the PO did as Don suggests they would have installed a 'T' fitting in the raw water intake hose which allows for an alternate water source for cooling.
Our A4 is 41 years old this year.

Evaluating an Atomic 4
 

I have been trying to close a deal on an Alberg 30 with a 1972 Atomic 4. The owner agreed to get the engine running before I paid for a survey. He ended up having to take the engine out of the boat (I actually helped him do this) in order to address stuck valves and a stuck piston.

Some new valves and rings have been installed and I am supposed to go over and see the engine run this Saturday. It is still out of the boat (the boat is in his front yard) and he says it ran for a while and very well last weekend. He did an acid flush and then ran lye through it.

I have been reading all I can find on these engines and it all seems a bit daunting, with all the troubleshooting, maintenance, etc. I still haven't made my mind up.

I have printed the list posted above and will take that with me when I go to see the engine run. If there is anything else I should do or look for? Again, this engine is out of the boat and so, I won't be able to put a load on it.

Thanks for any advice or guidance.

It would be very nice to have quantitative compression readings on the engine (as opposed to the "thumb test" described in the above checklist), even if you have to spring for a small hand-held compression gauge from a local automotive parts store.

Don

Thanks Don, I will do that. They can't be but so expensive and I'll probably need it in the future anyway.

Compression Testing Question
 

I obtained a compression tester; my question is do you remove all spark plugs first and test each cylinder, or do you only remove one plug, test and then continue thru all 4 cylinders while replacing the plugs after each test?

compression testing
 

It works best to remove all the plugs as the engine rolls over easier. Don't forget to pull the coil wire out of the coil tower.

Mike

You'll get a slightly better (more consistent) test and put much less load on your battery(s) by removing all plugs and opening the throttle to full open position.

Don