Alternator exciter wire sending 12v to coil.
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Hello, I bought this engine used. Im not sure how to identify the posts on the alternator. It is a vdrive so it is difficult to get to. The problem i am having is the exciter wire is hot with 12v with the ignition switch turned off and battery on. Previously I had to figure out why my fwc electric pump was turning on. After removing the exciter wire from coil + the problem was solved. Later i tested with a voltmeter and found 12v at the wire. I have tried to find my alternator online but it is painted over. I have attached pictures for reference. Im trying to find the output. I am running an ammeter not voltmeter. Just what came stock on my columbia 30 gauge cluster.
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Yours is the early Motorola style, upper right picture
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You are the man! Thankyou!
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So from what im seeing there is no exciter wire. Hmm that is the wire I had going to coil positive. Which was the problem.
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In the picture, Ignition + is the exciter.
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I see, but what im saying is when the ignition switch is off i am still measuring 12v from the exciter wire even when it is not on coil positive.
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Either you have the wrong wire or something is wrong with the alternator.
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Were you having any problem turning the engine off? With 12V coming from the exciter wire and with it connected to coil + I would expect the engine to continue running with the key off. Something is not adding up.
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ex TRUE GRIT |
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No I am able to kill the engine with the ignition switch. |
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I think since I had gone to the channel islands, where I had a hot coil issue, it may have burned up something in the relay for the electric water pump. Thomas from Indigo is sending a new relay assembly for shipping costs only, as he is helping me diagnose this issue over the phone. I did wind up taking the wire off of the alleged alternator output, and ran the engine while testing voltage with my multimeter, and did get a strong voltage there. So I know my wiring is right. The ammeter does move with RPM, so I believe I am right there. I would think if the exciter wire is back feeding the electricity, then my guages would still be powered. Not sure of the issue, if anything I will just wire another switch for the water pump. As of right now when I turn the ignition switch on, everything powers on as it should, but when I flip the ignition switch off, the only thing that doesn't shut off is the water pump. In order for me to turn the water pump off I have to toggle the battery switch to on/off, then flip the ignition, and it turns on. Ill update on Friday when I get the new relay. |
Update.
The relay was not the issue. I removed the exciter wire and the water pump shuts off with the ignition. I tested voltage on the output to the ammeter. I maxed at rpms and read 17volts at the highest and around 13 just after idle. My boat didn't come with a tach. There is no noticeable difference from starting to not starting with the exciter wire detached. I also sanded the name plate and found Mr12n451d type b. I did just test the exciter wire its the only one with a square connector and a coil in the wire, the voltage increased in this wire as well. |
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Ah regulation, getting it, makes sense. Thanks.
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What became of the overheated Channel Islands coil?
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The coil was significantly damaged. I purchased indigos coil and electronic module since then.
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Of course. I understand. Going to start shopping for alternators now.
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