Engine not running under load solved - but now there is some kind of knock

[Elizabeth_B29]

Hello Afourians,
I am back after reworking my ignition and all the associated wiring, added 1 ohm resistor, new plugs, new rotor and cap. Also swapped out the alternator that was externally regulated with an internally regulated Motorola. She now runs under a load in forward and reverse with out the loss of power and miss, YAYYYYYY!! replaced Distrib with rebuilt electronic ignition prestolite and used Don's iginition timing video to school up on the timing process. A great to the point video, will take any worries you have out of setting up, installing and timing a distributer, worth every penny of the download price. Pulled plugs after running and found good clean plugs. Running the Autolites this time with 0.35" gap. Replaced rotten choke cable also. She started right up and was ticking like a sewing machine until the knock.
Pulled each plug wire. 1 through 3 made a difference and lost revs, number 4 shocked the snot out of me, so I replaced it with one of the spares I had.

I did have a shut down when I returned to idle after running under a load in forward, but think I have figured it out. Found the main jet plug weeping gas around the fiber washer, snugged it up but still weeps. THis is a homemade fiber washer I drilled to fit the plug. Not sure where the leak occurs. Does anyone know of a source of just the fiber washers??? Could this be a source of shutdowns when returning to idle?

Also there is a knock of sorts at idle and with slowly increased rev.s but it smooths out when up to "cruising" speed under a load at the dock. What is it?? I do have a video but not sure if I can upload it. Thought maybe it was the alternator bearing as I had the belt tight and this alternator came from another engine I had no history on, so I loosened it. Still there is a knock, possibly from around the accessory drive under the distributer??
Any ideas will be appreciated. I will go back tomorrow and take off the alternator belt and see if it makes a difference.

Cheers!

Elizabeth

E_B29

[edwardc]

...Does anyone know of a source of just the fiber washers??? ...

Try McMaster-Carr

http://www.mcmaster.com/#hard-fiber-sealing-washers/=rfegl4

[Elizabeth_B29]

Do you know which one?

The "absorbing plant base" is it compatable with gasoline?

E-B29

[Elizabeth_B29]

Fiber washer - plant base

Plant base is from McMaster's description...

[hanleyclifford]

A light "tick" in the area of the accessory drive is common and acceptable, thought to be caused by excessive backlash at the idler gear or wear of it's bushing, over which we have little control. A deep "knock" on the other hand is a different matter and the fact that it diminishes at high rpm is not much comfort. The members should hear it and I'm sure one of the computer guys will be along with some uploading help. In the meantime, what are your oil pressure figures at idle and cruise rpm?

[Dave Neptune]

Knocks and ticks

Elizabeth, try backing the timing off a tiny bit to see if it has anything to do with the knock. You state a new distributor, great and did you check for smooth operation of the centrifugal advance~they have been known to stick once in a while.
Number for "bit" you but did it make any change to the knock? If you can do one at a time while the knock is audible an change in sound may indicate which cylinder or get you looking for something else less of an issue.
Do you have a stethoscope for playing "Dr."?

Dave Neptune

[edwardc]

The "absorbing plant base" is it compatable with gasoline?

E-B29

I wondered about that too. But at just a few bucks for a package of 100, it would be worth an experiment. Just toss one into a glass baby food jar full of gas and come back a week later to check on it.

Then there's always their pressure-sealing washers that are specificaly rated for oil & fuel:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-sealing-washers/=rflhpv

They're a little thicker than the fiber washers and pricier too. In fact, enough so that you're approaching the cost of ordering a new plug from MMI which comes with a washer!

I also just had one other thought. If you have an Advance Auto Parts store or an Autozone near you, take a look at the blister-pak products under the "Help" tradename. These are an assortment of often hard to find bits and pieces for car maintenance. They used to have a "carburetor fuel line washer" pak that had an assortment of thin fiber washers. You might get lucky and find one that fits.

[joe_db]

NAPA used to have some parts for this carb. They may still.
I am also pretty sure a call to our sponsor would have one on the way to you in the mail

Asl for the knock, does it vary with alternator load. Take the exciter wire off the alternator and see if it changes. IMHO if it changes it is the accessory drive.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Try pushing on the accessory drive pulley with a piece of wood while the engine is "ticking".
If imposing a lateral force on the pulley changes the characteristic of the noise the accessory drive is suspect.
Careful around moving machinery.

+1 on backing off on the timing a bit.

TRUE GRIT

[Elizabeth_B29]

Knock, fiber washers and Sigmund Freud - Hmmm Timing

Thanks! Thanks! another midnight foray with my A4, I see a pattern developing here. I am now thinking of when tinkering about, the rum bottle nestled in the bilge, that is only used medicinally for a nip now and then when the mosquitos have overwhelmed.... Is this going to develop into a problem? Do I need counselling? I woke up thinking about accessory drive gaskets this morning...Fortunately I have only been questioned by one of my marina mates "What are you doing in there?"" as I usually am woking on something visible from the outside world. Is there a counselling thread somewhere????

On washers:I have scoured all the Ace hardware bins of special washers, the auto stores and MSC Supply (similar to McMAster-Carr, have an account there). Found the same thickness and a little bigger OD that I modified by drilling at Ace Hdwe, it is grey. This is the one on the carb. that is either weeping through the base material or through not so smooth of a drilling at my hand. I did put it into a jar of gass for a week and thought I was on to something...I didn't disentigrate or get soft, but I realize now that the material could weep through and still stay intact and look good. After this little exercise I will order the plug and washer and a spare from Moyer. I am fummbly and just wanted to be able to have extra washers w/o ordering the plug, my magnet can't save me here. I do understand supporting the OB1 of these engines and am paying my karmic debt now, HA! Ordering today.

On Timing:
Think I may need help here. If I just loosen the hold down clamp I only get a little wiggle each direction. It did give me more RPMS up to cruising RPM's restrained at the dock. But I think I may need to loosen the actual clamp that is at the base of the distributer and get more movement?? Number Four plug wire buzzed the P--S out of me, I did replace it with another used wire...will wear my flowery rubber dish gloves next time....Soooo should I also loosen the clamp on the bottom of the distributer and try the timing by the "cruising-under-load-restrained-at-the-dock" (read chomping at the bit) adjustment again??

Also, I did set the timing initially to just before I heard the "pop" of the spark firing off in the distributer when I rotated the distributer a tad after setting it up at TDC. Need to get a timing tester like in the video. I did solder leads on a 12V taillight bulb that lights when it is energized + to + and - to - on a battery. Can I use this to see the timing initial set instead of listening for it to pop? Prob. need to not cheap out on this and buy one from the 2.99 bin at the auto parts store.

Annnd I was remarking to myself that it sounded like rats had carried gravel into the accessory drive area or into the alternator bearing (rememember this is a nnew old alt replacing the externally regulated one) when I was rotating manually through TDC with my ratchet. Especially when rotating clock wise just to see if it sounded different. I loosend the alt belt just in case. I too am fresh water cooled so can't get to the roll pin, but used a wire for TDC and also can feel the compression. Did it about a quinzillion times to be sure.

Needy
Elizabeth B_29

[Elizabeth_B29]

Pushing on pulley

Thanks John, Will try this today in addition to timing adjustment again.

E_B29

[Elizabeth_B29]

Ticks

Thanks Haney!
I will go out and look for some ticks now. Will they chase out the rats? and keep out the gravel???

[Elizabeth_B29]

Dipstick notches and oil level

Forgot one thing.
I am going to change the oil. HD straight weight detergent?
Tell me about the dipstick notches? Should I just rely on using the level I see after an oil change as a reference when I put in the correct number of quarts?
Will the notches have any direct significance?
Now I wonder what is really the correct number of quarts at the angle my engine is mounted. I know, I know there is prob a thread on this topic. Will look.

I thought maybe the backlash Hanley was talking about may be due to oil level in the accessory drive......Thanks Hanley!

E_B29

oh, Elizabeth

[Dave Neptune]

Timing

Elizabeth, I personally am not a fan of tied to the dock method of timing. It is OK to get the beastie running but to truly set the timing you need to be at cruising speed for a bit and all warmed up. Set it with someone else driving just as you would at the dock.

Another recommendation of mine is not to ever set at "MAX" RPM!! I do adjust for the "MAX" and once the max is ascertained bring it back a "TIC" (retard the timing) just until the engine changes sound (may sound smoother) and MAYBE looses a few (might see the tach needle move SLIGHTLY) RPM's. This method really eases the load on the bearings and does not cost any real usable power. You will find that over "time" the engine will run smoother longer in this manner.

Also use only REGULAR low octane fuel, the slower the burn the better for these A-4's.

I have never fouled a plug in over 30 years now.

Dave Neptune

[joe_db]

Tons of oil threads.
For years I used Penzoil marine 15W40. It is about the cheapest oil at the Western Auto This year I switched to Lucas 10W40 "hotrod/antique oil" that has more zinc and phosphorous than current car oil does. These things poison catalytic converters but are good for old engines like the A4. The factory manual for the A4 suggests 10W30, not straight weight oil.