Electronic Ignition Fried!?

[theredboat]

Hi there!

My engine suddenly died last week while I was charging the batteries. Thankfully was still on the mooring when it happened.

After some diagnostics, realized there was no spark and that the electronic ignition module (not sure if it’s the right name, see attachment) was literally fried and had even created a burn mark surrounding it.

My questions are:

1. What might have caused this?
2. Do I need to replace the entire ignition unit or just this module?
3. If just the module, where can I find this part? I searched Google for the part number printed on it but didn’t see anything. Says part# is 24AE-V5 but no clue who makes it.

Thanks!

[Surcouf]

it can be found here

https://moyermarine.com/product/ignitor-module-replacement-kit-for-late-model-motors-with-delco-distributors-iglm_13-1_490/

no idea why it fried. I used to leave the engine compartment door open anytime I was running it more than a few minutes at the dock, at there could be a very poor compartment cooling in that situation. Could it be that?

[Dave Neptune]

Did you check the alt? You may have gone way over voltage and fried everything. Did you see a spike in voltage?
Check batteries.
Check alt control.
Check the coil.
Replace the module.

The module should not fry unless it fails inside and grounds out or the voltage was way to high "charging" the batteries. Or the module shot craps coincidentally at the same time you were charging and the charging sequence was just fine.
A lil more info may help.

Some modules need to be "heat sinked" to the body of the distributor and in most cases "dielectric silicone" is recommended under the module for better heat transfer, yours looks dry.

Dave Neptune

[theredboat]

it can be found here

https://moyermarine.com/product/ignitor-module-replacement-kit-for-late-model-motors-with-delco-distributors-iglm_13-1_490/

no idea why it fried. I used to leave the engine compartment door open anytime I was running it more than a few minutes at the dock, at there could be a very poor compartment cooling in that situation. Could it be that?

Thanks for the link!

Could very well be. Although it was a cool, cloudy day, so...

[theredboat]

Did you check the alt? You may have gone way over voltage and fried everything. Did you see a spike in voltage?
Check batteries.
Check alt control.
Check the coil.
Replace the module.

The module should not fry unless it fails inside and grounds out or the voltage was way to high "charging" the batteries. Or the module shot craps coincidentally at the same time you were charging and the charging sequence was just fine.
A lil more info may help.

Some modules need to be "heat sinked" to the body of the distributor and in most cases "dielectric silicone" is recommended under the module for better heat transfer, yours looks dry.

Dave Neptune

Thanks Dave for this thoughtful response! Batteries are fine, alternator is fine, but the coil was indeed fried upon inspection (cracked!). Although this may have been due to the fact that I mistakenly left the ignition key for a number of on after the engine had died. I am not sure.

Wish I had more details but this is what I've got so far... still digging.

Will try the silicone when I replace the new one.

thank you!

[Al Schober]

My thought on this is too much voltage, suspecting that your alternator controller (regulator) may not be working properly. Does your alternator have an internal regulator or is it external to the alternator case? Have you had to add water to your batteries recently?
Recommend you use a good digital voltmeter to check the voltages here and there when the engine is running. This includes a low voltage check of your ground leads. Pick one ground point (engine block) and check voltage to other ground points : start battery -, house battery -, alternator case, etc. Builders tend to run ground cables through the bilge area and they deteriorate.
This would probably be a good time to develop a basic wiring diagram of your boat's battery and charging systems.

[joe_db]

but the coil was indeed fried upon inspection (cracked!). Although this may have been due to the fact that I mistakenly left the ignition key for a number of on after the engine had died. I am not sure.

That will do it!

[ndutton]

Thanks Dave for this thoughtful response! . . . . alternator is fine . . .

How do you know this? Did you monitor the alternator output voltage when the engine was running?

[JOHN COOKSON]

?QUICK QUESTION?

, but the coil was indeed fried upon inspection (cracked!). Although this may have been due to the fact that I mistakenly left the ignition key for a number of on after the engine had died. I am not sure.

The engine quits for some unknown reason. The key is inadvertently left on. This frys the coil and the EI both??? Is this possible? I don't know that much about a EI.......

ex TRUE GRIT

[joe_db]

The engine quits for some unknown reason. The key is inadvertently left on. This frys the coil and the EI both??? Is this possible? I don't know that much about a EI.......

ex TRUE GRIT

Very possible with some versions of Pertronix.

[theredboat]

Update

Finally got all the parts in (new EI, distributor cap, rotor, etc) and as I was installing it I noticed that one of the advancing springs inside the distributor was rusty and had snapped.

Could this have been the underlying cause of the whole melt down???

[JOHN COOKSON]

The advance is mechanical and is not electrically connected to any part of the ignition system.

ex TRUE GRIT

[idreamOfSailing]

Distributor base plate removal

A bit off-topic, but since there's such a nice picture of the naked EI distributor, how do you remove the base plate? I tried but that black thing underneath where the rotor sits is preventing the plate from coming away (after I've unscrewed it of course).

[edwardc]

The "black thing" is the magnetic collar that provides timing pulses to the electronics module. It is just press-fit onto the shaft and should pull off. Be careful if you have to pry with something, as it is somewhat brittle and will crack easily.