Hints on how to remove cylinder head?

[Danser]

Hi. New here and new to this whole life style and jumping in with both feet. I have to replace the head gasket on my vintage '76 A4. We got the bolts off without too much trouble, but the head is holding on tenaciously. I wondered if there were any helpful hints, trade secrets or sly suggestions anyone on here would be willing to offer? I have been reading around the forum in general but have not found (or don't recall finding... it's all a bit of a blur ) anything that addresses this issue. Any help would be appreciated as we are stuck in a boatyard on the ICW some four weeks from home. If you are located near Great Bridge......?

[Dave Neptune]

Danser first welcome to the MMI Afourian Forum.

Once you have the head bolts out get a good stiff putty knife and be sure it is sharp. The thicker scraper type work best! Now place the putty knife into the gasket and tap with a hammer or even the palm of your hand. Work your way around the head and it will pop loose. Be careful to insert the putty knife so you do not gouge the head or block.

Dave Neptune

[JOHN COOKSON]

If you need to hold the head up slightly as you work on it be sure to use wood wedges so you don't damage the mating surfaces.

TRUE GRIT

[roadnsky]

Here are a couple of threads you can read thru with tips and advice already posted...

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10138

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9363

[Al Schober]

Danser,
The head is held down by studs and nuts. I suspect you've removed the nuts.
It's also good to remove the studs. The best stud remover has collets with internal threads to fit the studs - it doesn't damage the threads. Check with the Snap-On folks - not cheap, but a thing of beauty. The stud that's on the bench isn't holding down the head. Prime culprits are the studs near the thermostat housing - a bit of leakage gets down into the gap between the stud and the head, and corrosion does it's thing.

[romantic comedy]

I use lots of wood. Wood wedges get whacked in between the head and block.

I also use a hunk of wood against the head and hit it with a hammer. Find a spot that the wood might catch an edge or something that you can aim up.

It needs to come up level.

The studs at the thermostat tend to get stuck and cause a lot of friction. I suggest you remove them.

[Danser]

Thanks to all

for your help. The head is off. Wood wedges worked wonders, weally! A lot of spray-spray, tap-tap, spray-spray, tap ouch! also helped. Then out came the wedges and up went the head, one thread at a time. Couldn't pull all the bolts, so careful and slow was the name of the game. New question: I find that the valves for cylinder 1 are both gummed up with gasket material and seem stuck mid way. Any suggestions on 1) cause and 2) recovery? If I hand crank the flywheel, will they (theoretically, anyhow) move to open and make it easier to clear them out?
Thanks again for help in the past and in prospect for help in the future.
J

[romantic comedy]

wow, whee, wonderful, whoopee, wicked, wabbit!!!